Replacing 50A cord with 30A, Hubbell or Marnico?

[dezeldad]

I recently purchased a 2011 FR Coachman. It came with the second air option with a 50A cord. I can't see adding the second air and most of the campgrounds around here & my generator are 30A. Would like to buy a smaller/lighter 30A cordset to replace the 50A.

The end that connects to the camper is a twistlock type attachment. Does anyone know if this is a Marnico brand or Hubbell brand connector? I think I read somewhere that these connectors are different and I want to make sure I order something that is compatible. I plan to take a closer look at the 50A cord & connector to see if it is marked with a brand, but it may be a few weeks until I get over to the storage facility & I'd like to get 30A on order asap.

Thanks,
Joe

[caper]

If you change over to 30A you will have the change the attachment at the TT plus you will have to rewire the panel. The 50A has two 120volt lines in it while the 30A has only one 120volt. It is not going to be an easy fix. If you are not handy doing electrical work you should leave it to a person who will do the job right. You should just purchase a 50A to 30A cheater.

[camper_Lucy]

It is not as simple as rewiring your panel either, without getting into a technical rat hole, think of it this way. A 30 amp implementation has 3 circuits, circuit capacity is defined by the total amount of AMP's that the devices on the circuit require, if you exceed the circuit AMP the breaker trips. So on a 50AMP service you get more circuits that's all, rewiring a 50AMP panel to be serviced from a 30AMP service will cause the breakers to trip constantly depending on what you turn on/off at any given time, the reason for the 50AMP panel is that more circuits were required due to more electrical devices that "may" need to draw current at the same time.
Here is a simple test, get a 20AMP cheater and plug it between your 50Amp cord and a 30AMP service plug, go in camper band begin turning things on, before long the 30amp service panel (where you plugged the cheater in) breaker will trip. What services did you get to run at the same time? Air, Frig, Microwave, how many lights, etc.

To rewire the camper correctly you would have to recalculate the load per circuit and move the end devices and plugs, most likely end up with plugs or lights that would not be on any circuit, or if used when other devices on that circuit were drawing a load the camper circuit breaker would trip.

[dezeldad]

Actually, not trying to convert the trailer to 30A. Basically I am asking about something like the "cheater" adapter mentioned above ... except it's not just the dog bone adapter but instead the whole cord that goes from the trailer receptacle to the campground power box. You can see the Marnico brand at this web site ... 50A to 30A RV Adapter - 25' | Marinco .... basically it's a 25' cheater cord. Just trying to understand if the connection at the trailer is the Marnico type or the Hubbell type, or if it even makes a difference. I didn't want to order the cord above if it is not compatible with the twist-lock connection on the side of the trailer.

Sorry for any confusion & thanks for responding.

Joe

[cfsoistman]

Why not just buy the adapter?

[VTX Al]

Originally Posted by cfsoistman

Attachment 10107

Why not just buy the adapter?

:


That was my observation as well. Seemed to be too simple so I figured that the OP had another reason for changing the whole thing out.

...VTX-AL

[dezeldad]

cfsoistman, VTX AL,

The 50A cord is bigger, heavier & I don't need it to run the appliances that I have & I won't need the dog bone adapter. Just would prefer the smaller size/gauge cord for ease of handling and storage. Not a big deal, I know, but just something I want.

Thanks for posting,
Joe

[cfsoistman]

Originally Posted by dezeldad

cfsoistman, VTX AL,

The 50A cord is bigger, heavier & I don't need it to run the appliances that I have & I won't need the dog bone adapter. Just would prefer the smaller size/gauge cord for ease of handling and storage. Not a big deal, I know, but just something I want.

Thanks for posting,
Joe

Why not just buy a 30 amp extension cord and the adapter. Leave the 50 amp cord in the compartment and run the 30 amp extension cord up into the compartment and plug into the adapter? Store the 30 amp cord wherever it's easy to get to. Just a suggestion!!

[09grizzly1]

dezeldad.This info indicates that the 50 amp Marinco and Hubbell use the same twist lock connector.
"The cord is UL and CSA approved so it suits both the U.S. and the Canadian market. This high quality power cord is made with three 6 gauge and one 8 gauge 100% copper wires. The Marinco 50 amp locking connector has a twist-lock connector body and comes with a weather-proof boot with a threaded ring. This locking connector fits all 50 amp Marinco and Hubbell power inlets and is perfect for weather-proof applications. This power cord also comes with a special plug head with build-in flanges on the side. So unlike other power cords out there, you have something to hold onto when trying to unplug this gigantic cord from the power source." This is where I got this info from http://www.adventurerv.net/marine-po...r-p-22804.html

09grizzly1

[camper_Lucy]

Dezeldad,

Hubbell makes Marine systems, those use 63AMP systems not 50AMP and the connections are a different configuration.

You can do what you are asking, however, you will damage your unit over time as as systems will not receive the required draw they were designed for(brown condition). You are will need to wire the 50AMP female end to handle the loss of the phasing that you get in a 50AMP system (the adapters handle this already for you)

Keep this in mind: 30 AMP = 3600 watts of service
50AMP is really 100AMP and = to 12,000 watts of service.

See this link to get a better idea of how 50AMP service really works vs 30AMP:
AC Electricity

[SimchaSabre]

We have a 50 amp Sabre on order and plan on buying this:
RV Power Cord Adapter 25' 30 amp to 50 amp Marinco Locking Connector Detachable

Sounds like this will solve your problem too!

[traveler2955]

Why rewire?

IHMO Csfoistman has the right idea as adapters go from 50 to 30, and from 30 to 50. Then purchase a cord to plug into your adapter in the 30 range.

Furthermore, you may want 50A one of these days, and maybe when you sell....

Mike

[Terry Jay]

When we go into Canada and Alaska the available power choices are usually 15 AMP and 30 AMP, so we need a couple of dogbones and a heavy duty 15amp cord around 50' long. It is rare in May to need the AC, so for overnight the load is limited to battery charging, lights, TV and maybe the Micro. It is pretty easy to live on 15AMP as long as you do need the AC.
Terry

[dezeldad]

Hi Mike, I wasn't planning on rewiring. I think the title of my post may have mislead the conversation. I was only asking if the 25' Marnico adapter cord was compatible with the female connection on the 5er. I thought I read somewhere that they may not be compatible with other brands. 09Grizzly's post indicates that they are generic. I am actually looking at the same long adapter cord that SimchaSabre is looking at in the above post.

I looked at the installed connector on my 5er last weekend and it is the Conntek brand. The 50A cord that came with the trailer is also Conntek. Conntek has a 35' 50A to 30A adapter cord that I am also considering ... although it is a bit more pricey. here is the amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Even though I was not asking about rewiring I do appreciate the replies and found them interesting. After reading them it did make me think about what appliances I might be losing when I run on 30A (2nd AC that is not installed, hot water heater, ???).

Some very smart people on this forum. Thanks for the replies!

Joe

[traveler2955]

OOPS, sorry.

Guilty as charged-- we should not not get caught up in the aftermath should we? ha

I'm also positive it wasn't the first time, and it'll probably not be the last I'll do this.

Enjoy,

Mike

[cfsoistman]

Originally Posted by traveler2955

OOPS, sorry.

Guilty as charged-- we should not not get caught up in the aftermath should we? ha

I'm also positive it wasn't the first time, and it'll probably not be the last I'll do this.

Enjoy,

Mike

Same here, I thought your 50 amp cord was internally connected. Didn't realize the set-up you have. Hey, we all learned a little something anyway and that's cool!!

[KyDan]

In our home, We have some 240 volt appliances.
These include kitchen range, clothes dryer, electric hot water heater,
central air conditioner.

In a 50 amp trailer are there any 240 volt appliances???
I think that maybe some models do have 240 volt appliances and some
don't.

That is the real question in my mind.
If your roof AC is 120v I don't see why the OP can't just use an adapter.

I also suggest not to change the trailer cord connector due to issues
with re-sale.
I disagree with the brown out post.
As long as he's only got one 120v roof AC and a 1500 watt 120v water
heater, he's got virtually the same as me.

[cfsoistman]

Originally Posted by KyDan

In our home, We have some 240 volt appliances.
These include kitchen range, clothes dryer, electric hot water heater,
central air conditioner.

In a 50 amp trailer are there any 240 volt appliances???
I think that maybe some models do have 240 volt appliances and some
don't.

That is the real question in my mind.
If your roof AC is 120v I don't see why the OP can't just use an adapter.

I also suggest not to change the trailer cord connector due to issues
with re-sale.
I disagree with the brown out post.
As long as he's only got one 120v roof AC and a 1500 watt 120v water
heater, he's got virtually the same as me.

There may be some on the higher end models but I believe 120 Volts is the norm for AC Units and in my case the Washer / Dryer set-up is 120 Volts, don't have one but if we ever want to add it, we have everything needed. The water heaters are not large enough to need the large electric elements that require 240 volts.

[dezeldad]

Got it ... the new 35' 50A to 30A cord. Used it with my generator this past weekend at Bristol and it worked great. I tried all appliances/lights/air/etc. (except the electric water heater) and they worked perfectly. Thanks for all the advice.

Joe

[myredracer]

As an electrical engineer (now retired) it's my opinion if that this is intended to be a permanent change and not an occasional stop-gap measure at a c/g that only has a 30 amp connection, you should swap out the panel from an 240 volt one to a 120 volt. But there are pros and cons.

A new panel is under $200. Then, you'll have the cost of a 30 amp cordset and inlet. Some of the cord/inlet stuff is crazy expensive for what it is. There are some deals on ebay if you know your pricing. It's dumb, but you can buy a complete new Marinco 30 amp cordset for about the same price as just the 30 amp connector and weatherproof boot to convert your old cable. You could be looking at around $200 for a new inlet and cordset. Or a lot more depending on where you buy it.

So then you are looking at $400 and up (allowing for misc. bits and pieces) for all of the material. For those no longer a spring chicken (like me), working in cramped quarters inside an RV at floor level to work on and behind a panel can be REALLY hard on the body and joints.

I'm thinking fuggedaboutit at this point already.

If you use a "cheater" adapter to go from 50 to 30 amps, you will get 30 amps at 120 volts, but only on one leg, or 1/2 of your panel's circuits. Can you live with that? I don't know how you would change that if you wanted because you get what you get depending on what leg your adapter is connected to. So you may find a receptacle at the kitchen counter not working, the converter not working, or the A/C not working. You probably could rearrange some circuits in the panel to help this situation.

Yup, and lastly there's the resale issue to wonder about. Might be a real turn off for buyers to learn that you have downgraded the power in your RV to 30A/120V..

Hmmmm, sounds like it would be whole lot easier to use an adapter and run on reduced power!

FWIW, I just added a 15 amp inlet on the outside and one receptacle inside for those times we want to run an extra appliance. Now we can brag we have a 45 amper.....