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Old 08-21-2014, 03:59 PM   #31
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Go solar and never turn the converter back on!!! I haven't for years.
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:25 PM   #32
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Lou,

I suspect a bad connection somewhere between your camper neutral buss and the supply circuit neutral. This would introduce a low resistance into the circuit which would create the voltage potential when there is a load on the neutral. Since you had the problem a two different locations, probably in the camper. A loose connection in the ground conductor would not cause the voltage potential because there should not be current on the ground conductor. I'm not sure how your autotransformer is connected so I can't really say whether that has anything to do with it or not. With the neutral and ground bonded, you were forcing the two to be at the same potential and thus the ground was probably carrying some of the neutral current. When you removed the bond, with the neutral and ground bonded in the supply circuit source panel, the current in the neutral with the series resistance of the bad connection would result in the 30 volts between the ground and neutral in the camper.

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Old 08-21-2014, 09:29 PM   #33
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Lou,

I read your last post again and what you described about the 2 volts without the converter on fits my previous explanation. The converter is probably there highest load so turning it on increases the neutral current and this increases the voltage between the neutral and ground. Try turning on something else with a high current load (water heater or air conditioner) and I bet the voltage between the neutral and ground goes up.

Brad
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:32 PM   #34
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So, just when I thought I had it all figured out ... Monkey Wrench.

The buss screwed to the floor is indeed the 12 volt DC "Ground Buss."

Unbonded the AC Ground and AC Neutral in the camper and my 30 volts AC is back; frame ground to Neutral.

Further troubleshooting is I have about 2 volts AC between the AC ground and AC Neutral with all breakers on except the L/R GFCI circuit/Converter (hots are soldered together and inserted at the breaker).

In process of trying to isolate which leg is the culprit. I am afraid the issue is in the converter. (Film at Eleven)
Hmmm too hots on one breaker according to Canadian code is illegal but then RVIA has its own approved code.
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Old 08-21-2014, 11:21 PM   #35
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Lou,

I read your last post again and what you described about the 2 volts without the converter on fits my previous explanation. The converter is probably there highest load so turning it on increases the neutral current and this increases the voltage between the neutral and ground. Try turning on something else with a high current load (water heater or air conditioner) and I bet the voltage between the neutral and ground goes up.

Brad
OK, now I know where to start looking and I don't have to worry so much about buying a new converter.

Thanks. Will update this thread when we get back from Oregon in 2 weeks. Camper is offline and battery disconnected.
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Old 09-11-2014, 08:45 AM   #36
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After weeks of searching I found the culprit.

When I installed the Franks unit, I used a male pigtail on the "power center side" and a female pigtail on the "wall socket side" so I could bypass the Franks if there was ever a problem by plugging the two pigtails together.

During the troubleshooting I did that and still had my hot frame, so I moved on to the actual coach wiring.

Well after weeks of work, I decided to start over after talking to Mike Sokol and my Electrician friend who retired from Hershey as an electrician.

I found that inside the bare ground/green wire "wire nut" on the power center side pigtail junction box, the bare 30 amp Romex ground wire had vibrated out of the wire nut. Since I had taped all the nuts in place in that junction box (as my technique), it was not obvious by observation that the wire was not making contact.

All is well now.
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:32 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
After weeks of searching I found the culprit.

When I installed the Franks unit, I used a male pigtail on the "power center side" and a female pigtail on the "wall socket side" so I could bypass the Franks if there was ever a problem by plugging the two pigtails together.

During the troubleshooting I did that and still had my hot frame, so I moved on to the actual coach wiring.

Well after weeks of work, I decided to start over after talking to Mike Sokol and my Electrician friend who retired from Hershey as an electrician.

I found that inside the bare ground/green wire "wire nut" on the power center side pigtail junction box, the bare 30 amp Romex ground wire had vibrated out of the wire nut. Since I had taped all the nuts in place in that junction box (as my technique), it was not obvious by observation that the wire was not making contact.

All is well now.
This is why I was told to never "black tape" a wire nut.

Can't see if a wire has "slipped out"

Albeit I think it's still a good practice.

Good you found it lou!

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Old 09-11-2014, 03:09 PM   #38
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It would have been obvious if the wire was insulated because I would have seen bare wire showing it was not inserted far enough. As it was bare copper, I had no idea it had not engaged the wire nut spring.

Gonna do some soldering this time.
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Old 09-11-2014, 03:12 PM   #39
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I have wired/rewired a number of houses. I make it a point to twist the wires together before installing the wirenuts. Saves having to deal with problems such as yours. Just my thoughts.
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Old 09-11-2014, 03:22 PM   #40
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I have wired/rewired a number of houses. I make it a point to twist the wires together before installing the wirenuts. Saves having to deal with problems such as yours. Just my thoughts.
That's how I was told years ago by an old electrician and that's how I do it and tape the wire nuts also. He also taught me to wrap the nuts and continue about an inch above the nut, fold the tape back over the nut and wrap it down from the top to the wires themselves in a continuous wrap. It sure guarantees the nut will not come off.
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