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Old 08-04-2016, 02:26 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
I have a question for you after rereading your OP. You said you only ran the air conditioner and fridge while plugged in at home. Can I ask what kind of outlet you were plugged into at your house? Was it a dedicated 30 amp outlet, or perhaps a 15 amp house outlet using an adapter?

Also here is a FAQ from a manufacturer of RV power cords that I should have added to my initial post. It may help:

https://conntek.wordpress.com/2014/0...ing-acting-up/
Please excuse my semi-hijack of the thread, but I have looked, in vain, all over the forums for the specific subject.


My new 26fkws behaves well.....except for that #&@$%* twist-on power cord.

The idiot that replaced hardwired cords with this POS needs to be ......

From day one, we have had to "play" with the cord to get a connection.

Used to be...just pull up and plug in.

Now, I haul out the plug, plug into the (turned off) post, attach/twist/screw the cord in and then communicate with wife, through the window, to see if the microwave light is on.

....diddle,diddle....WAIT, it's on.....no....it's off....on, no....off....

(for the microsoft helpline folks.....yes, everything was done right, and it's plugged in)

(I can just imagine the arcing going on in the plug)

Took it to the dealer. He fussed for a couple days. Got it back with the TT connection rotated 90 degrees, but no improvement in operation.

Why, oh WHY did the factory fix what wasn't broke ??
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Old 08-04-2016, 03:46 PM   #12
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You have the Furrion power cord and plug?

I think I'd just invest in a good marine wall mount plug and cord mount receptacle. However, I know it's frustrating to have to deal with it on a brand new unit.

You could always take it back to the dealer and have them futz with it again. Maybe they'd get the message and just replace it.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:31 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by fectrain View Post
I guess I'm guilty as charged, I'm plugging into a 20 amp circuit with an adapter. So I guess the next thing you are going to tell me is I damaged the cord end by doing this?
I burnt mine up doing exactly that. lesson learned and installed dedicated 30 amp .
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:57 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Major Oz View Post
Please excuse my semi-hijack of the thread, but I have looked, in vain, all over the forums for the specific subject.


My new 26fkws behaves well.....except for that #&@$%* twist-on power cord.

The idiot that replaced hardwired cords with this POS needs to be ......

From day one, we have had to "play" with the cord to get a connection.

Used to be...just pull up and plug in.

Now, I haul out the plug, plug into the (turned off) post, attach/twist/screw the cord in and then communicate with wife, through the window, to see if the microwave light is on.

....diddle,diddle....WAIT, it's on.....no....it's off....on, no....off....

(for the microsoft helpline folks.....yes, everything was done right, and it's plugged in)

(I can just imagine the arcing going on in the plug)

Took it to the dealer. He fussed for a couple days. Got it back with the TT connection rotated 90 degrees, but no improvement in operation.

Why, oh WHY did the factory fix what wasn't broke ??

When you attach the cord, the microwave light should not be on. Because the pedestal switch or the 30 (?) amp master breaker inside should be off so there is no power at the cord when you connect. This prevents arcing and wire/plug damage. Once connected, then turn on the pedestal or the inside master breaker. It should then be connected. If not, then something may be amiss at the connection point or even somewhere else in the line that you think is at the connection point but it isn't (such as a loose wire within the cord that also gets jiggled around when you twist and turn the connection).


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Old 08-05-2016, 11:08 PM   #15
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>When you attach the cord, the microwave light should not be on. Because the pedestal switch or the 30 (?) amp master breaker inside should be off so there is no power at the cord when you connect.
This prevents arcing and wire/plug damage. Once connected, then turn on the pedestal or the inside master breaker.

....uh, yeah....

> It should then be connected.

Correct.....but it ain't.....that's why I posted.


> If not, then something may be amiss at the connection point...

ya think ?

>.... or even somewhere else in the line that you think is at the connection point but it isn't (such as a loose wire within the cord that also gets jiggled around when you twist and turn the connection).

I have disassembled the fem end and verified the connections.

I want the HARD WIRED cord that the whole world had until a couple years ago.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:12 PM   #16
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Glad you have it all figured out. I mistakenly thought you were looking for assistance from the forum.


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Old 08-06-2016, 05:15 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by MNtraveler View Post
Glad you have it all figured out. I mistakenly thought you were looking for assistance from the forum.
I also mistakenly thought he was looking for help.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:00 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
I also mistakenly thought he was looking for help.
My apologies....to you, BR, and the rest.

It was more of a rant than a request for aid.

This was the wrong place for it, and I should not have done it.

I guess, if I had a question, it would be:

"Does anyone have any idea why manufacturers abandoned a perfectly good hard wired cord and went for the 'push/twist/screw' of a separate cord ? "
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