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07-29-2014, 03:37 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 17
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Shore Power to Residential Home
Hello all. Can someone tell me the cheapest, most uncomplicated way to connect the trailer to my home power and be able to run my ac without throwing breakers? I currently plug into a wall outlet on a 15 amp breaker and it keeps tripping. Can I just up my Guage of extension cord? Change out the breaker for a 20 amp without rewiring the panel? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
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07-29-2014, 03:51 PM
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#2
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Do it right or DON'T do it.
Run 30 amp service and appropriate wiring.
10 ga I believe.
"sabre owners united!"
turbs
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07-29-2014, 03:52 PM
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#3
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New to Forest River
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Oregon
Posts: 105
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There are a couple of questions:
What is gauge of current ext cord?
How long is the cord?
What else is on the 15 amp circuit?
What else is running in TT?
Use at 12 ga cord with minimum length.
Minimize any other appliances on circuit.
Unless the circuit is wired with 12ga wire you should not just swap the 15 amp breaker for a 20 amp breaker.
Ron
Grey Nomads, Ron and Sue
__________________
Grey Nomads:l Ron & Sue
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07-29-2014, 04:15 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 44
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I had an electrician come out and do it, and parts & labor was less than $200. Additionally, although my current trailer is only 30 AMP, i went ahead and had him wire it and put in a 50 AMP plug in the hopes that we may get a fifth wheel in the future. Of course, the length of the run was not an issue, as my breaker box in my garage was on one of the exterior walls and he drilled through the wall and mounted the receptacle on the outside.
We then bought a dogbone adapter that goes 50 to 30 and now run the AC when we are loading and unloading the toyhauler and it makes a world of difference. I think its supposed to be over 100 in Boise again today!
Matt
__________________
2014 GMC Sierra 3500 Denali SRW
2016 Dutchman Rubicon 2905
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07-29-2014, 04:19 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 138
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I had a contractor bid on doing the RV dedicated 30 amp outlet, and got a $1250 bid. It was a long way from the breaker panel to the RV pad. I passed on that. I just don't run my A/C while I'm parked at home.
If you put in a larger extension cord it won't keep you from popping breakers; quite the opposite. It'll keep the temperature down on the cord itself, however.
__________________
2007 Coachman Freelander 26' w/ E-450 6.0L diesel
1982 El Dorado Bermuda 27' w/ E-350 460 gas (sold)
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07-29-2014, 04:45 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: central PA
Posts: 978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roving Ron
There are a couple of questions:
What is gauge of current ext cord?
How long is the cord?
What else is on the 15 amp circuit?
What else is running in TT?
Use at 12 ga cord with minimum length.
Minimize any other appliances on circuit.
Unless the circuit is wired with 12ga wire you should not just swap the 15 amp breaker for a 20 amp breaker.
Ron
Grey Nomads, Ron and Sue
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Good place to start! 1)You might be ok with a heavy duty extension cord. What the heck, buy one and try it. You could probably use one anyway. Don't be cheap, look for at least a 12 ga. and only as long as needed. If your outlet isn't too far, just get a rv extension cord and a outlet adapter and skip the HD extension cord. 2) As stated above, eliminating all unnecessary loads...turn off the electric part of the hot water heater, turn the fridge to gas, etc. Try doing this along with the better cord. 3) last resort is installing the proper outlet. Eventually you may want to do this, but first start off with #1&2. You might be ok.
__________________
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.
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07-29-2014, 05:12 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,452
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Just do it right the first time and be done with it. Have a 30 amp 120 volt breaker installed in your panel and run a dedicated line out to a wall where your rig is parked, install an outdoor box with the proper outlet and your done. I did my own and cost was under 100 bucks, and that is what a good 10 gauge 50 foot extension cord will cost you.
Doesn't matter what size, gauge, or length extension cord you use, your still going to trip breakers when you start turning on stuff, maybe not just one item, but when you start turning on lights, or something in your garage, it will start tripping breakers.
By the time you've bought extension cords and adapters, you will have spent enough to do it properly.
Grumpy
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07-29-2014, 05:53 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 25
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Just finished doing mine. Breaker box on side of house. Used 10 gauge and 75 feet. Have 50 amp on 5th wheel so used a dogbone down to 30 amp. Cost was 140.00. Most stuff from Home Depot. In Arizona you need AIR! Loading and unloading.
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07-29-2014, 05:56 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 17
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Thanks all. I wanna do it right and you all helped convince the DW.
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07-29-2014, 08:38 PM
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#10
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Denver, CO
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hapy.Trainer
Thanks all. I wanna do it right and you all helped convince the DW.
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Good, The 15 amp circuit will not run a 13 or 15K AC unit for very long, will heat the undersize wire and very possibly burn your house down
I put one in on the outside wall of the garage, 30 amp circuit and lockable box.
__________________
2017 Fuse 23T
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07-29-2014, 09:36 PM
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#11
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garbonz
Good, The 15 amp circuit will not run a 13 or 15K AC unit for very long, will heat the undersize wire and very possibly burn your house down
I put one in on the outside wall of the garage, 30 amp circuit and lockable box.
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And or provide low voltage into your trailer and ruin your a/c and maybe more.
"sabre owners united!"
turbs
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