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Old 04-24-2012, 07:03 PM   #21
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I am so tired of many people thinking they are giving correct info when they are not. Herk is right though, somewhat. The only thing different with RV 50 amp and a dryer, welder, air conditioner, or stove is the receptacle plug and ampacity, that is how current wiring is done. In the old days they were different, but i wont get into that part. For 50 amp rv the electrician just needs a right sized breaker, and right sized wire for 50 amps then a rv receptacle. I would do the 50 amp wire with 30amp breaker and receptacle, just make sure you have 50 amp spot available at the main panel, if not just wire for 30amp. The biggest thing to make sure of is panel size and room for additional circuits
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:20 PM   #22
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Herk is right though, somewhat.
Always open to learn something new.
What part (or all) was only "somewhat" correct?
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:26 PM   #23
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:57 PM   #24
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Triguy, you don't say if you are just going to run an extension cord over to the TT from your panel, if you are going to have an overhead cable or if you might install an underground run. You also don't say what you want to use when your TT is parked at home. And you don't say how far your panel is from the front street or utility transformer.

To add to what has been said, you should have someone do a load calculation on your service as is, before doing anything. Your service *could* be sized to the max. as it is and adding your RV load (esp. if 50 amps with A/C units running) could overload your main breaker.

Electrical code rules can vary depending on where you are. Your RV *may* need to be added to your house service load at 80% of 50 amps and if you have a 100 amp main breaker, you may have a problem. But if you just put in a 15A dedicated outside plug for "general" exterior use, it may be okay with the electrical inspector.

If you aren't planning on using appliances, A/C and other heavier loads in the TT and just want to go in and use lights, fans, TV and similar light loads, why not just run 15 amp wiring? It's a lot of bother and expense to upgrade to 30 or 50A service.

If you have voltage drop concerns (from long wire/cable distances and/or small gauge wiring) you may want to install wire to your TT is that larger than what the min. would be for 15, 30 or 50 amps. You don't say if the panel in your garage is the main panel or a sub-panel. If a sub-panel, you need to look at the sub-panel capacity and the wire size to it.

If you want to install wiring underground, if it were me, I would use 1" PVC conduit which will give you the ultimate flexibility. And if you run 50A wiring to the trailer, you have the flexibility of installing a 50, 30 or 15A recept. (with appropriate breaker of course). All depends on what you want to spend...

I am going to eventually install a 30A 120V outlet in our detached carport even though we won't need it, but I'll do it because of voltage drop. Our trailer is about 75' away from our main panel which in turn is about 200' from the front street. I had a 14 ga. (might have even been 16 ga.) extension cord to the trailer over the winter and with a 1000w heater running, and the voltage was around 109V. Not great for heaters as the output varies as the square of the voltage.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:18 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Barnman1 View Post
I am so tired of many people thinking they are giving correct info when they are not. Herk is right though, somewhat. The only thing different with RV 50 amp and a dryer, welder, air conditioner, or stove is the receptacle plug and ampacity, that is how current wiring is done. In the old days they were different, but i wont get into that part. For 50 amp rv the electrician just needs a right sized breaker, and right sized wire for 50 amps then a rv receptacle. I would do the 50 amp wire with 30amp breaker and receptacle, just make sure you have 50 amp spot available at the main panel, if not just wire for 30amp. The biggest thing to make sure of is panel size and room for additional circuits
Even this is misleading, there is no difference in a four prong 50 amp 240 VAC dryer plug and a 50 amp RV plug they both plug into a NEMA 14-50R receptacle. You could take your 50 amp dryer or range out to a campground and plug it into the 50 AMP ped and will work just fine as long at it has the 4 prong plug on it. (this 4 prong setup is new code).
(1) neutral (2) 120 VAC hot legs and (1) ground. your RV will use each leg as 120 VAC. However, if you where to run a 240 line from the breaker in the RV to a 50 amp plug in the camper, again you could use your dryer inside if you so desired. Its all the same RV or home, EXCEPT the 30 amp side this is a 120 VAC line only! (1) neutral (1) 120 VAC hot and (1) ground
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:24 PM   #26
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Some great sites explaining this.
The 50-amp 120/240-volt 3 pole 4
Electrical Adapters
And here is a nice DIY plug tester.
50-amp Tester
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:27 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by myredracer View Post
Triguy, you don't say if you are just going to run an extension cord over to the TT from your panel, if you are going to have an overhead cable or if you might install an underground run. You also don't say what you want to use when your TT is parked at home. And you don't say how far your panel is from the front street or utility transformer.

To add to what has been said, you should have someone do a load calculation on your service as is, before doing anything. Your service *could* be sized to the max. as it is and adding your RV load (esp. if 50 amps with A/C units running) could overload your main breaker.

Electrical code rules can vary depending on where you are. Your RV *may* need to be added to your house service load at 80% of 50 amps and if you have a 100 amp main breaker, you may have a problem. But if you just put in a 15A dedicated outside plug for "general" exterior use, it may be okay with the electrical inspector.

If you aren't planning on using appliances, A/C and other heavier loads in the TT and just want to go in and use lights, fans, TV and similar light loads, why not just run 15 amp wiring? It's a lot of bother and expense to upgrade to 30 or 50A service.

If you have voltage drop concerns (from long wire/cable distances and/or small gauge wiring) you may want to install wire to your TT is that larger than what the min. would be for 15, 30 or 50 amps. You don't say if the panel in your garage is the main panel or a sub-panel. If a sub-panel, you need to look at the sub-panel capacity and the wire size to it.

If you want to install wiring underground, if it were me, I would use 1" PVC conduit which will give you the ultimate flexibility. And if you run 50A wiring to the trailer, you have the flexibility of installing a 50, 30 or 15A recept. (with appropriate breaker of course). All depends on what you want to spend...

I am going to eventually install a 30A 120V outlet in our detached carport even though we won't need it, but I'll do it because of voltage drop. Our trailer is about 75' away from our main panel which in turn is about 200' from the front street. I had a 14 ga. (might have even been 16 ga.) extension cord to the trailer over the winter and with a 1000w heater running, and the voltage was around 109V. Not great for heaters as the output varies as the square of the voltage.
I'm a bit overwhelmed with that although I very much appreciate your thoughts.

I am more comfortable with 12 volt and AC, frankly, gives me the willies.

I am lucky that I have a good electrician. I will show him this thread (he's worked for me a long time and will be fine) and ask him to address these issues.
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:29 AM   #28
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Run the 50Amp wire, then you can have the electrician either set it up as a 50amp and use a dog bone at the TT end (if you have capacity in the home breaker box panel) or set it up as a 30amp and cap the extra wire. This way you are either ready for the 50amp service when you buy the next TT (oh - you will), or at least you will only need to convert plugs to 50amp and update the service panel. Even as a 30amp you may want to consider using the 50amp plug and dog bone, then the only future work would be on the service panel.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:47 AM   #29
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If you put in a 30A recepticle, buy the wire youself, and get 10/2. Then there is no way the electrician can set it up as a 220 connection.
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:39 PM   #30
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If you put in a 30A recepticle, buy the wire youself, and get 10/2. Then there is no way the electrician can set it up as a 220 connection.
Never underestimate the power of "Murphy"

Since water heaters are hooked up with 10/2 w/ground, and they are 220VAC, I think Murphy can still make your life a living hell.

They just put the white wire on the second breaker and color the ends black with a magic marker.
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