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Old 04-16-2016, 11:12 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by 25FKS View Post
Just like in a chain or tug of war, the weakest link is the source of problems. You have different size wires. They should all be the same AWG. The red positive ones going to the switch and the red positive out of the switch as well as the black negative ones. Also, use as little length as possible - turn both small positives 180 and probably reduce their length 50%.
I had originally planned to use the 2/0 to also run to my charger. I used it as my interconnects since 6v has more voltage drop than 12v.

Now that I've moved my charger to less than 3' of wire run to the batteries I ran 4 gauge. It made all the box connections easier and will do what I need it to do. Would 2 gauge have been better? Sure, but 1 gauge would have been better than that.

The factory 8 gauge carries 12v back to the power center.

It might not be ideal, but it is a vast improvement over what the manufacturer installed.

I also tried every arrangement possible in the box to accommodate everything I wanted to put in and this is the best compromise between connections, serviceability and wire length.

Something to keep in mind and I constantly have to keep my own compulsions in check..... it's an rv, not the space shuttle.

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Old 04-16-2016, 11:17 AM   #22
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My different wire size is a result of modified plans after getting materials.

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Old 04-16-2016, 11:51 AM   #23
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The correct wire size is actual science vs opinion. When I get my new (First) TT next month, the first thing I am doing is modifying ALL of the electrical supply & wires to bring it up to my specs that follow the rules in the following FAQ. Hopefully, the FAQ explains it clearly enough to be easily understood by the forum members less trained on the subject - ZRD FAQ - Wire sizing


I had to do this to my first boat too. Manufacturers undersize everything. Like I said a few times now, when I get this done next month, I'll post for all to view.
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Old 04-16-2016, 03:08 PM   #24
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I don't think anyone is disputing or arguing the science over opinion. But again, we aren't dealing with the space shuttle.

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Old 04-18-2016, 10:03 AM   #25
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I'm not absolutely sure what being said about the shunt. When i installed my TM2030 I pre-installed it on a board I could install in the TT. I have the shunt mounted on a board, then the bus, a positive battery lug and a blade fuse box. I pulled the battery cables off and put them on the back side of my board to feed the TT as before. I got two short cables to go from my battery. Negative goes to the shunt, small cable goes from shunt to bus and I bring the TT's Positive goes to the lug I mounted
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:10 AM   #26
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Sorry, pushed wrong button, back side of the bus feeds thr TT like before. I share the positive lug, from the battery to the TT. I run a little jumper to the fuse box for future needs is that what being said. It sounds like you are installing the bus before the shunt, I believed from the TM install diagram there shouldn't be anything between the batteries and the shunt
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:56 AM   #27
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I think the confusion here is what is a "bus." All that the 2030 wants is that every ounce of current to and from the batteries goes through the shunt so that it can measure "deposits" i.e. charging and "withdrawals" i.e. discharges. The ideal place for the shunt is just before the chassis ground on the negative side of the battery bank.

My previous comments about the converter related to putting it's negative lead between the batteries and the shunt, which would hide the converter charge current from the 2030. The converter negative lead goes on the chassis itself, or on the farthest shunt lug that connects to the chassis ground. Either way, the current from the charger will run through the shunt and be detected by the 2030.
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Old 04-19-2016, 12:46 PM   #28
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Let me get this straight, I looked at best converter web site and I talked to Randy today. From what I see on there diagram and what Randy told me was put the shunt close to the negative post on battery, no more than 18 inches from post. I plan to install a 6in 2/0 cable from battery negative post to shunt and then from shunt to negative bus bar. If nothing else I'll take a picture of what I have done and send to Randy, I'll post a picture on here. I plan to purchase the TM-20/30 and shunt from best converter.


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