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02-24-2017, 02:30 PM
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#41
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7 Year Class A RV'er
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Winter Park, FL
Posts: 1,068
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Similar thing happened on our first trip. Called mobile repair and felt like an idiot. I had the ignition turned on. Stupid thing, but you might check it. Could also be related to those circuits.
__________________
2015 Legacy SR340 360RB
2014 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Toad
Gigi, Poppy and Sadie Lady...On the road, but not full time!
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02-24-2017, 02:35 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: ALASKA (World's Biggest Campground)
Posts: 6,626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SARDogDad
Something else you might want to check, in addition to the fuse that Picker suggested, was make sure your battery is showing a full charge. My slide and jacks have to have battery power to operate. Shore power charges the battery, but the fuse that Picker showed was wired into my battery. I had to replace both fuse and battery in mine.
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That's a fact. That converter doesn't have the power to run the motors. Once you ascertain that your batteries are up to snuff, I would get the crank out of the front compartment and run the slide out to get to the fuse panel. No time like the present learning how to do that manually. Once the fuse panel can be accessed just look at the row of LEDS that run down the ATO fuse line. They will tell you if a fuse or fuses are blown. Had this happen to me. The Mrs. was bringing in the slide while I was raising the stabilizer jacks. Everything quit. Blew a 30 amp fuse.
A word to the wise, record all fuse ratings in your panel and purchase spares.
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'07 K3500 Silverado LT Crew Duramax (LBZ)
2016 Salem 27RKSS
1984 CHEV SCOTTSDALE K20 2GCGK24J0E1XXXXXX (Chevrolet Legends-Class of 2019)
"...exhaust fluid? We don't need no stinkin' exhaust fluid"
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02-24-2017, 02:43 PM
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#43
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 447
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The converter in your RV basically does two jobs:
1) When you are plugged into electricity it converts a portion of the 120 volts coming into the RV down to 12 volts so all of the 12 volt devices like overhead lights and fan motors will operate without draining the RV battery.
2) It has a battery charger built in the converter to keep the RV battery charged (topped off).
If the converter wasn't on, or wasn't operating properly you would run the RV battery down because you are using the 12 volt appliances and devices.
The coach batteries are the heart of your house electrical system. You need to be able to check them so you can monitor their status.
Recently, I had a fellow campground member complain his 12 volt activated heater would not fire up. First thing I checked was the charge in his batteries...they were totally discharged.
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02-24-2017, 03:29 PM
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#44
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Full-time USA
Posts: 123
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My 5th wheel has two fuses in the outside compartment on the door side front corner. They are in line fuses for the slides and Jacks. You might want to check your compartments. Mine are 10 and 15 amp blade types.
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02-24-2017, 03:29 PM
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#45
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philos3
The converter in your RV basically does two jobs:
1) When you are plugged into electricity it converts a portion of the 120 volts coming into the RV down to 12 volts so all of the 12 volt devices like overhead lights and fan motors will operate without draining the RV battery.
2) It has a battery charger built in the converter to keep the RV battery charged (topped off).
If the converter wasn't on, or wasn't operating properly you would run the RV battery down because you are using the 12 volt appliances and devices.
The coach batteries are the heart of your house electrical system. You need to be able to check them so you can monitor their status.
Recently, I had a fellow campground member complain his 12 volt activated heater would not fire up. First thing I checked was the charge in his batteries...they were totally discharged.
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I see what you're saying.. but the battery is brand new.. I pushed the tester button inside the trailer and it showed full. But I will check the battery after I look for blown fuses. Thank you
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02-24-2017, 03:33 PM
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#46
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhall5368
I see what you're saying.. but the battery is brand new.. I pushed the tester button inside the trailer and it showed full. But I will check the battery after I look for blown fuses. Thank you
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Was the trailer plugged into shore power when you pressed the tester button?
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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02-24-2017, 03:34 PM
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#47
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 70
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No sir
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02-24-2017, 03:36 PM
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#48
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Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhall5368
I see what you're saying.. but the battery is brand new.. I pushed the tester button inside the trailer and it showed full. But I will check the battery after I look for blown fuses. Thank you
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If you pushed the tester button inside the trailer while plugged in, (with your adapter as you mentioned in the first post) you were reading converter (charger) voltage, not the actual voltage of the battery. That test would only work if you were NOT plugged in. Even then those lights are pretty inaccurate but may give a ballpark indication of a dead battery.... or not.
EDIT... never mind just seen your post above mine.
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2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
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02-24-2017, 03:42 PM
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#49
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 70
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Forgive me guys for being a rookie at this. I'm pretty sure that I was not plugged in whenever I tested the battery. But I will double check when I get home just to make absolutely sure. But if I am understanding correctly, if I were plugged in and the battery was good then the slide should work correct? If the problem we're only a dying battery?
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02-24-2017, 04:00 PM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 447
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The key, from my perspective, is first understanding your RV electrical system and each key component, and then either plug and play OR troubleshoot. Troubleshooting takes the most skills.
The references that one of the posters provided are good starting points for learning more about your system.
Checking the battery, checking the fuses, doing a reset are just used in hopes the problem is simple. Once you get beyond that, it becomes increasingly difficult to help you from online.
For example, I remember reading one post, in a different forum, where the op said he checked the fuses. Later, it turned out to be a fuse. The issue is knowing enough about fuses and electricity to understand how to check them. Try to explain that online takes more than a sentence to do and some foundational knowledge.
At some point we all have one of three choices, 1) just try to get by as our RV becomes less functional, 2) upskill ourselves and buy diagnostic tools, or 3) pay a service technician for their time.
I think that the owners who have up-skilled themselves are the happiest and providing some learning links is a true kindness and offering the most respect, from my
perspective. I always think that these are opportunities to further our knowledge.
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02-24-2017, 04:04 PM
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#51
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 70
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I understand what you mean.. I agree it is difficult to try and troubleshoot this online.. good thing is, is that its brand spanking new! I just wanted to try and not have to haul it back to the dealer.. I'm pretty familiar with fuses so I'll check them all good. The thing that sucks is that the panel is hard to get to cause the slides closed... ughhhhh.. I'll be home in an hour and I'm gonna get out there and go over most all this info.. it's been very helpful and I'll update as to what I find.
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02-24-2017, 04:35 PM
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#52
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 93
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On my TT the tongue jack would not run on shore power I had to turn battery disconnect back on for it to function, my slides worked with battery disconnect switched off?? Oh I am running out of popcorn on this one
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GMC Denali 2500HD 4x4
Columbus 381 FLC 2016
Flagstaff Ultralite 29 RLSS
2013 35 nights, 2014 105 nights, 2015 123 nights, 2016 18 nights 🙁
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02-24-2017, 05:07 PM
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#53
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 133
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Its a fuse. Mine did the same exact thing. The fuse for this wasn't in the main bank of fuses. It was behind a panel in the bathroom.
Just an FYI, if you don't turn off your fridge converter and try operating the jacks with a remote, the fuse for the awning, jacks and slides will blow every time.
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02-24-2017, 05:43 PM
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#54
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D-Man
Its a fuse. Mine did the same exact thing. The fuse for this wasn't in the main bank of fuses. It was behind a panel in the bathroom.
Just an FYI, if you don't turn off your fridge converter and try operating the jacks with a remote, the fuse for the awning, jacks and slides will blow every time.
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What year was yours? I haven't gone exploring the panels in the bath yet but I did find the ones under the fridge... all were good
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02-24-2017, 05:49 PM
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#55
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 70
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Ok here's the outcome so far... I checked the battery with out being plugged in..it shows full.
I found the inline fuse breaker things that someone showed a picture of. There were 2. I hit the reset button on them and still nothing.
I found the fuses under the fridge, all were good.
I still can't get into the main fuse panel due to the slide. I don't really want to start trying to open it manually. I think I may leave it to the pros.
I sure wish i could get into that main fuse box and just eliminate that.
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02-24-2017, 06:38 PM
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#56
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 93
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Do you have a battery disconnect switch? check it
__________________
GMC Denali 2500HD 4x4
Columbus 381 FLC 2016
Flagstaff Ultralite 29 RLSS
2013 35 nights, 2014 105 nights, 2015 123 nights, 2016 18 nights 🙁
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02-24-2017, 06:43 PM
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#57
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 21
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My electrical problem fixed
I had an issue on a new unit also. All the DC power stopped Working. Wasn't the fuses. After calling a tech found out all the wiring behind the fuse panel and all the dc connections were loose and not tightened down from the factory. Wiggled loose over a day or so. Tightened everything up and worked great. Don't assume they did their job in the factory either.
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02-24-2017, 06:53 PM
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#58
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike ONeill
Do you have a battery disconnect switch? check it
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I'm not quite sure. Where exactly would that be and what should I do if I find one?
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02-24-2017, 08:05 PM
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#59
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 2
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I am having the same problem. Nothing works except the electric jack. The two orange fuses are good. Did find two fuse connections about 18 inches from battery. Battery switch is in 'on' position. Both fuses were good. But Nothing works inside..lights, refrigerator, fans, etc. Did not look for frame fuse. Trailer is in storage now. Checked out everything today. But will go back tomorrow if possible and look for frame fuse. Thank you for info.
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02-24-2017, 08:05 PM
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#60
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 133
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Mines a 2017 model. just bought it last summer.
Don't you have a crank handle to open your slide manually?
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