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Old 02-12-2013, 08:31 PM   #11
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here's a link to my website showing pix of my camper mods. Some pix show the conduit I used to get the #4 wire, battery temp signal, and the shunt wires back to the controller.

http://www.pbase.com/rpaspey/2012apr27
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:30 AM   #12
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I took a tape measure and measured out the entire run adding in a few feet extra to be safe. It came out to 42'. So much for eyeballing it. I think I'll be going with the 4 awg anyway because of this. I found an electrical company close that will charge me 96 cents a foot (19 strand) for 4 awg. Does that sound right? Pricing it via online companies it was looking like $1.50 to $2.00 per foot. The $2.00 price was tinned marine grade though.

I also got surprised by how long the battery to inverter was going to be. When I looked at it I thought it would be 3' tops. When I measured out how long it would need to be with a little added in for safety I came up with 10' . Should I go with welding cable or will 2 awg be ok? It's a two battery (in parallel) setup that will run a laptop and a 32" LCD (5 amp 12v after conversion) and blueray player as the heavy draws.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:46 AM   #13
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The 19 strand is building wire, think STIFF! But not impossibly so. Of you have any bends that are tight, say less than 2" radius, you might be stressing that #4. It will work, but you might have an issue where the extra flexibility will be desired. I bought my #4 fine stranded pure copper power cable at a local megatronix store. It's a auto stereo type place. I think 100 feet was $150.

now the inverter cable should be sized for the DC draw at max output to keep losses at less than 3%. You'll probably only need a 400-500 watt inverter for those items. size the wire according to that.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:54 AM   #14
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one thing to think about is future desires. If you think you might ever go bigger, panels or inverter, run even bigger wire now. Yes it will cost more now, but will be cheaper on the long run. Nothing like pulling out $200 worth of wire to be replaced with $300 worth of wire.

here is a link to some high flex pure copper wire ...note that if the link works that it is only an example. no endorsement intended. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050X...sr=8-5&pi=SL75
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:16 AM   #15
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I think the only place "stiff" will be a problem is in the combiner box. The rest of the wire will run down beside the ramp (toy hauler) and then along the frame I-beam and lastly will come up through the floor to the distribution panel. I plan on putting the wire in conduit from the roof to the bottom of the TT.

I was also looking at a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter with remote for the camper. See below.

Sunforce 11240 1000 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter with Remote Control : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:27 AM   #16
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We had a few of the Sunforce inverters in the vans at work. they worked good for a while. The guys were rough on them though....occasionally wet from rain/snow, dusty/dirty, banging into them with equipment, constant overloading, etc. we use a commercial inverter now, built for abuse, about 7x the cost.

anyway, if you do the math, you'll need a larger cable, #2 @ 3meters & 90Amps, to keep power losses down. That's for the 1000w inverter nearly maxed out. If you keep your loads at 500 watts max, you'll be ok with #4 wire with a loss of >2%.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:24 PM   #17
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oops.. that's <2%
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