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Old 02-03-2016, 11:53 AM   #11
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[QUOTE= On a rear power bay coach, a ¾” PVC conduit can go directly from roof to power bay through the bedroom cabinetry and won’t show at all. The ¾“is to allow an optional upgrade to a second 140 watt panel by fishing another pair of 10 AWG conductors at some future time. The conduit will penetrate the fiberglass roof and stick up maybe ¼” into a PVC junction box which will prevent any possible leakage. [/QUOTE]

Did you put in that conduit or did it come from the factory?? I often wondered why this isn't done at the time of build, just a few dollars extra but ton's of convenience, our 29 RE doesn't have one!!

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Old 02-03-2016, 01:39 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by prairiecamper View Post
Did you put in that conduit or did it come from the factory?? I often wondered why this isn't done at the time of build, just a few dollars extra but ton's of convenience, our 29 RE doesn't have one!!
Don't be jealous...neither does mine. However, on a 335 or really any Georgetown and other design like it, it is an easy mod. Bedroom floor to ceiling storage is a straight shot to the lower power bay...which also happens to be a pass through. eventually when you put in a lot of slides it becomes virtually impossible.

They could do this and then it could be used for solar, satellite, satellite radio...whole bunch of things. On a design like mine it would probably cost maybe $10.00 in PVC and the resulting labor. However, not sure how many people would appreciate it enough. i am sure we all can come up with a bunch of relatively low cost mods that would go unused in most units.

But a single 1" PVC conduit to a conventional PVC junction box on the roof would solve a lot of problems. Maybe they should call it the "DIY option."


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Old 02-04-2016, 10:22 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by spock123 View Post
I have question, I want to eventually install solar on camper, I want to start out with the battery bank first as I have a 40amp charger and a 3,000 watt inverter, I plan to have 4 6 volt Trojans in this battery bank. This is the question, I already have a bank of cheap batteries that I use for the electric refrigerator and a 1,000 watt inverter, how do I keep the converter from trying to charge the cheap batteries up when I plug into the 3,000 watt inverter?

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I doubt you will need your converter after you get your solar installed. I haven't turned mine on in 6 months except to make sure it still works. Even when on shore power, the solar system keeps the bank fully charged. [600 watts]. We get a lot of sun here in the deep South.
When the temps get at or near freezing, I turn the gas furnace to 40* and the batteries provide more than enough juice to run the furnace. The unit is in storage and I only check on it once a week unless a deep freeze comes and that is only for a few hours at night. That hasn't happened in several years here, so no problem. I also open any and all cabinets that water lines go through so heat can get in.

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