There are different ways to fuse, I went overkill. each panel, 8 amps at Imp, has a fuse, rated at 10 amps. then, the main conductor has a set of fuses rated at 30 amps. The last set is as much for gross failure of the charge converter as it for a means of disconnection.
You'll want to verify that your panels can be "grounded". I read somewhere that there was a batch of panels made that had the negative side tied to it's frame. If the panel frame was grounded, as it should be, the panel would destroy the charge controller. Most charge controller need the panel's output to be isolated from the charge controller output. Of course if the battery negative on the camper is tied to it's frame, so if the panel frame is tied to the camper frame you'll have the two together. Again this only applies to a few solar panels that have their frames tied to it's negative output.
2000 Cherokee 29BH with 6V batteries, LED lights & 400 watts of solar power, flipped axles and raised. 2007 Tundra 5.7L DC-LB with lots of mods. C-co, 8/158th AVN Maint.