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03-27-2016, 10:57 PM
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#21
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RailwayRog
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSU Turf
I think the panels are about 16 lbs each. Wire, controller, monitor might add 10 lbs at most.
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Those numbers sound accurate.
My Renogy panels weigh in at 16lbs each.
So far no one has chimed in about there solar panels coming loose, that's good.
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03-27-2016, 11:26 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 686
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Tall
Thanks, i'll check it out. I don't want a permanent mounted panel, want to it to be portable.
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Just for verification purpose of the cost factor, we too had just recently purchased a 200 watt ( 2 panels ) system with cables, a 20 Watt MPPT Controller & Mt-5 Monitor off of Amazon, and paid approx. $430 total. Great deal for sure. Now to get it out and put it to the test.
__________________
Rick & Brian
2023 Flagstaff 206STSE
2019 Flagstaff HW29SC ( sold )
2017 Salem Cruise Lite 232RBXL ( sold )
2014 Ford 150 XLT 5.0 2wd
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03-28-2016, 12:03 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sierra Nevada foothills
Posts: 236
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I currently have one Renogy 100 Watt panel. I am using it as a portable with the controller permanently mounted inside a front storage compartment. Used it for five nights and days at the beach and it kept the dual batteries topped up nicely. I am using the original shipping carton to store the panel when not in use. Not easy to stow it but it rides safely on the bed or behind the sofa when traveling.
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03-28-2016, 11:56 AM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Tall
That's a really nice setup, can i ask how much you have invested in the panels and controller etc...?
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http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...cture14902.jpg
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...cture14899.jpg
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...cture14897.jpg
Yes I spent about $700 but I screwed up and started with a 200w suitcase. Only using panels now. The key is the Trimetric controller & monitor with 8awg wire from controller to panel. Permanently mounted controller in front compartment 3 ft from batt with 6awg to batt.
__________________
Tom & Laura USAF Ret Smsgt
1995 2500 5.9 Cummins 5 sp 3.54 diff
2011 Coachman Catalina 22FB
Days Camped 2016 91, 2017 110
Days camped 2018 136
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03-29-2016, 12:15 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Kiski River Valley
Posts: 62
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What size and make of panel?
[QUOTE=nodrawers;1143331]Too scary for me so I went portable panels with Trimetric SC2030 controller & TM2030 monitor permanently. Mounted with quick disconnect for panels works great and I still get to park in the shade. Takes less than 5 min to set up.
Nodrawers - What size and make of panel did you use?
Larry
__________________
Larry & Chris (Abbey & Brody camping cats)
2016 Ford F-150 XLT Sport, Super Cab, 3.5 EcoBoost, 3.55, 4x4, MaxTow w/36 gal fuel tank
2015 Rockwood MiniLite 2104S, EMS-30HW, Carchet TPMS
Days Camped: 2015 = 51; 2016 = 59; 2017 = 20; 2018 = 12; 2019 =
If you're lucky enough to be camping......You're lucky enough.
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03-30-2016, 03:03 PM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Carlisle PA
Posts: 69
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Here was how I mounted mine:
I found a 285W panel on Craigslist (77" x 39") and I added a 1/4" aluminum bar inside the frame, front and back. This was fastened with a couple of 1/4-20 SS bolts. This allowed me to attach stainless steel hinges with the 1/4-20 SS bolt by tapping the aluminum bar. I can then remove the bolts that hold the hinges to the panel and tilt the panels using a custom made bar for maximum power. Being able to tilt the panels makes it easy to clean under the panel or work on it if needed. The hinges sit on custom made PVC blocks. The blocks allow for a number of screws to be used over a wider area to help hold it to the 1/8" plywood. Even the three screws on each hinge goes through the PVC block and into the roof. Of course, plenty of Dicor was used, which also helps hold the panel to the roof. I may add a small wind shield on the front edge of the blocks to help deflect the wind. So in total, 28 screws hold the panel to the roof. I also added PVC block in the middle of the panel for it to rest on and help support the panel.
By the way, I use a cheap MPPT controller and it recharges my pair of golf cart batteries by 10am - and that was with the panel laying flat on the roof this winter. I've seen the panel putting out over 16 amps - solar is great!
__________________
2007 Chevy Couchman Freeloader
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03-30-2016, 03:24 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Central New York
Posts: 1,165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RailwayRog
What have others used to secure panels to thin roof materiel?
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I've seen pictures of some installations on thin rv roofs using well nuts.
Robot Check
Seems like the best option I've found so far. But after I bought my two 100 watt panels I found we dry camp mostly in wooded areas and I ended up keeping both panels portable. Would have preferred roof mounts, but panels with no sun are pretty useless...
I asked one of the service guys at the dealer about installing the panels since they do a lot of them. He said they just screw them into the 1/8" plywood and Dicor the heck out of them. His logic was the wind on a panel going down the road was probably less than the force on a vent cover since the vent cover has more area facing into the wind and vent covers are just screwed on. He said as long as it was screwed down enough to hold it tight when stationary, they didn't worry about it during travel. I'm still a little skeptical, but that was coming from somebody who works on RV's for a living... I'd still go with something better than just screws & caulk.
__________________
2022 Columbus 379MBC (Previous 2013 Rockwood Roo 23 IKSS)
2023 F-350 (Previous 2017 F250, 2005 F-150)
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04-02-2016, 12:26 PM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 99
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ECO-WORTHY Solar
[QUOTE=beagle22b07;1145429]
Quote:
Originally Posted by nodrawers
Too scary for me so I went portable panels with Trimetric SC2030 controller & TM2030 monitor permanently. Mounted with quick disconnect for panels works great and I still get to park in the shade. Takes less than 5 min to set up.
Nodrawers - What size and make of panel did you use?
Larry
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200W ECO-WORTHY folding portable. 2ea 100W panels. Bought as kit and only using the panels now. Stand kit was very weak.
__________________
Tom & Laura USAF Ret Smsgt
1995 2500 5.9 Cummins 5 sp 3.54 diff
2011 Coachman Catalina 22FB
Days Camped 2016 91, 2017 110
Days camped 2018 136
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04-02-2016, 06:45 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RailwayRog
Started installing two 100 watt panels on the roof today.
I drilled a small pilot hole for the mounting screws, drill bit goes right thru, like hardly any material there, roof can't be more that a 1/4" thick (I'm being generous). I turn the screw in to test the hold, get to the end and the screw keeps turning, never able to tighten, dam what's this roof made of, 1/8" plywood? The previous owner had a laminate of sorts installed over original roof so i can't tell what the original is made of (i know thin plywood from my exploratory drill hole). I decided since I can't get screws to tighten the only sure way of holding the panels to roof would be toggle bolts.
With the smallest toggle bolts I had to drill a 3/8" hole for the toggle to fit thru, yikes I hate holes in the roof of any size. Then I Dicor the crap out of the bracket and screw.
I'm wondering if the Dicor alone would hold the panel to the roof (like glue)?
I'm not chancing it hence going with the toggle bolts as much as I didn't want to.
What have others used to secure panels to thin roof materiel?
I'm I missing something? I got one more panel to mount.
This job is turning out to be a major hassle at every turn.
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If you have not completed your install or even if you have redo it with the following hardware. It is recommended by Renogy. I just installed three panels today with this hardware and it worked great! I ordered mine from McMaster got it in two days.
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04-04-2016, 05:31 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 1,230
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Glue down flexible panel
I bought a flexible 100 watt panel and glued it to the roof with silicone caulking. I did this on my last camper and ended up selling the panel with the camper, because it was too difficult to remove.
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04-04-2016, 06:56 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klspahr
I found a 285W panel on Craigslist (77" x 39") and I added a 1/4" aluminum bar inside the frame, front and back. This was fastened with a couple of 1/4-20 SS bolts. This allowed me to attach stainless steel hinges with the 1/4-20 SS bolt by tapping the aluminum bar. I can then remove the bolts that hold the hinges to the panel and tilt the panels using a custom made bar for maximum power. Being able to tilt the panels makes it easy to clean under the panel or work on it if needed. The hinges sit on custom made PVC blocks. The blocks allow for a number of screws to be used over a wider area to help hold it to the 1/8" plywood. Even the three screws on each hinge goes through the PVC block and into the roof. Of course, plenty of Dicor was used, which also helps hold the panel to the roof. I may add a small wind shield on the front edge of the blocks to help deflect the wind. So in total, 28 screws hold the panel to the roof. I also added PVC block in the middle of the panel for it to rest on and help support the panel.
By the way, I use a cheap MPPT controller and it recharges my pair of golf cart batteries by 10am - and that was with the panel laying flat on the roof this winter. I've seen the panel putting out over 16 amps - solar is great!
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Very clean install. nice!
__________________
Rockwood 2104S, 2014 Ram 2500 Diesel.
USMC 68 -70
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04-15-2016, 01:59 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 176
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You guys who have opted for portable panels, what connectors are you using? This is the route I want to go also. I don't think the standard Mc4 connectors are built for frequent disconnects. Thanks.
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04-15-2016, 02:03 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Pleasant Gap, PA
Posts: 458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalsideup
You guys who have opted for portable panels, what connectors are you using? This is the route I want to go also. I don't think the standard Mc4 connectors are built for frequent disconnects. Thanks.
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I haven't had any issues with the MC4 connectors yet. They come apart pretty easy for me. You need the special tool to release the tabs.
__________________
2015 Solaire 201SS
2015 GMC 2500HD Duramax
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04-15-2016, 02:20 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,087
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Similar Topic, please Chime in if you want!
I started a similiar topic and we are having issues with how to mount on the thin roofs of the Forester and Sunseeker. Check it out and chime in.
Thanks
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...in-105452.html
__________________
2004 Winnebago Minnie 22e(went to a nice family Oct 3, 2015)
2016 Forester 2701DS (Aug 31, 2015)
2017 Camping 12 trips 38 nights
2018 Camping 10 trips 38 nights
2019 Camping 6 trips 19 nights
2020 Camping 0 trips Cancellations 6
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04-15-2016, 11:49 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sierra Nevada foothills
Posts: 236
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I have used the mc4 connectors without problems so far. As to the portable mount, I bought the least expensive painted steel unit. It folds flat when not in use. I use a good quality bicycle cable with integrated lock through the frame of the panel. Steel Adjustable Angle Solar Panel Mounting Rack Kit Wall Roof or Ground Mount | eBay
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04-16-2016, 09:26 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Englewood FL
Posts: 2,797
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Those rubber well nuts Shop Standard (SAE) Well Nuts at Lowes.com are worth every minute that I have spent on this forum. Perfect, strong and well sealed!
__________________
2015 335DS
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04-20-2016, 01:33 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ontario, California
Posts: 2,147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalsideup
You guys who have opted for portable panels, what connectors are you using? This is the route I want to go also. I don't think the standard Mc4 connectors are built for frequent disconnects. Thanks.
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For just one 100 watt panel, we put the Mc4 to the long piece of a 12 or 14 gauge extension cord in to the little 10 amp controller mounted in a clear plastic box with the male plug end running out the other side. Then used the female end, about 18 or 24 inches long mounted to the batteries and just plug the controller in and if you want to cut up two extension cords make a disconnect on the panel side of the box too. Be careful with the plug prongs, when the panel is facing up they are hot. Use nice bright orange or yellow extension cords and they are easier to see laying on the ground.
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04-20-2016, 02:23 AM
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#38
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Got mtn bike?
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: N. Austin Texas
Posts: 147
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I guess my set up is more for permanent or to be moved on rare occasions.
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10-04-2019, 02:27 PM
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#39
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 67
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Thread about mounting solar is a little old but how have your mounts held up?? I want to copy your idea
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10-04-2019, 02:41 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 203
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I wish I knew more before having the factory install the solar panel. First long trip it blew off, for last month and a half it has been 3 hours away at the dealership. No telling when I get it back but when I upgrade I like the toggle bolt idea to keep it in place.
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