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Old 05-16-2013, 06:35 PM   #11
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You right if the GFCI will not test/reset the more then likely a supply power issue. Good trouble shooting Herk
Thank you, I hope it is this simple.

We have a tendency to dive right in and ignore the obvious.

We spent nearly 50 posts trouble shooting a battery problem for a member and this was the problem.
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Old 05-16-2013, 06:41 PM   #12
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Thank you, I hope it is this simple.

We have a tendency to dive right in and ignore the obvious.

We spent nearly 50 posts trouble shooting a battery problem for a member and this was the problem.
Really? I thought the black cap was to prevent corrosion and save energy. Didn't it work. Lol
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:07 PM   #13
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Well, there goes the simple "replace the GFCI" outlet out the window! Alright, I have noted all suggestions and will start at the house breaker & work towards the camper. I'm assuming a simple one-button circuit tester will suffice for testing the garage panel breaker, the shore power outlet & the power supply cords from shore to TT. If all checks out I'll replace the GFCI outlet but it sounds like the problem is somewhere between the power source & the power converter. I did notice that when the thermostat is moved to a temp that would normally activate the a/c, a distinct "click" can be heard from the wiring/relays just behind the a/c filter & intake ceiling cover.
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:31 PM   #14
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Well, there goes the simple "replace the GFCI" outlet out the window! Alright, I have noted all suggestions and will start at the house breaker & work towards the camper. I'm assuming a simple one-button circuit tester will suffice for testing the garage panel breaker, the shore power outlet & the power supply cords from shore to TT. If all checks out I'll replace the GFCI outlet but it sounds like the problem is somewhere between the power source & the power converter. I did notice that when the thermostat is moved to a temp that would normally activate the a/c, a distinct "click" can be heard from the wiring/relays just behind the a/c filter & intake ceiling cover.
Lick you thumb and forefinger and put then across the white and black wires. It works every time.
LOL
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Old 05-16-2013, 07:34 PM   #15
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I watched my Dad do that numerous times. I think I'd rather kiss a copperhead!
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:32 PM   #16
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I'm no expert on the RV system like I stated, but the converter only deals with your 12volt, 120 feed in and then it's converted to 12volts, separate breakers for each voltage. Check the main from plug to your panel(in the camper) (you may need to pull it out of the wall for this). Do your 12volt devices work, ie: bathroom fan? If so then you have 120 at least to the panel. Next check your 120v breakers etc. could be a loose connection on your branch circuit wire leaving the load side of your breaker.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:54 PM   #17
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I watched my Dad do that numerous times. I think I'd rather kiss a copperhead!
Good answer! My bet is the house is not supplying the 30A circuit, or the 30 amp breaker in the camper is defective or open. When you reestablish the AC the 12 volt DC will come back with it.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:28 AM   #18
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PROBLEM SOLVED! Shore power cord had been pulled from outlet by teenage son on a riding mower (blade not spinning...whew!) When the plug was jerked from the outlet the plastic outlet face at the ground terminal apparently broke but wasn't noticed. Son reinserted the plug and all worked fine until the weight of the power cord and the lack of good contact due to the broken plastic caused the ground to fail. A new outlet for $7.61 and we're good to go.

Thanks for all of your suggestions, especially those that recommended I begin at the breaker box and work out towards the camper. Otherwise I'd still be replacing camper outlets and fighting with the converter unit.

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