Splitting the 30amp service

vizsla owner · 07-19-2013, 11:09 AM

My wife and I have a side business that involves using a heat press to apply custom rhinestone designs to shirts.

We are looking at going to some local fairs / festivals to sell these. Since we will be there all day for 3 days in the heat of Aug I am considering taking the TT along.

They are able to provide a 30amp/120volt with RV connector for service.

I want to be able to run the A/C on the TT
I want to be able to run the fridge on the TT.
The heat press has ratings of: 120 volts, 1750 watts, 14.5 amps

My concern comes with plugging the press into the outside 110 outlet on the side of the camper. Would I be pulling to much electricity through the camper/outlet?

Can I split the 30amp service at the provided box and have the heat press run on a separate heavy duty cord?

I don't know the A/C amps but guessing it is a 13.5k unit so I figure to be under the total 30amp draw.

**wmtire** · 07-19-2013, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vizsla owner

They are able to provide a 30amp/120volt with RV connector for service.

I want to be able to run the A/C on the TT
I want to be able to run the fridge on the TT.
The heat press has ratings of: 120 volts, 1750 watts, 14.5 amps

I don't know the A/C amps but guessing it is a 13.5k unit so I figure to be under the total 30amp draw.

Howdy. Different A/C brands/models can require different amps. One model might use 11 amps and another may use 15. They also require more amps starting up, but this is for a very short time.

Just taking an average of 12 amps for the AC, say 6 amps for the refrigerator, and 14.5 amps for your heat press, you can see you are over your 30 amp total.

Does the 30 amp outlet you are plugging into have it's own dedicated circuit breaker at the outlet?

I don't see how "splitting" the service accomplishes anything. You still only have 30 amps total available. If the 30 amp outlet doesn't have a 120 volt 15/20 amp receptacle in addition to the 30 amp RV receptacle.......you can always use an adapter that plugs into the 30 amp RV outlet, and then has a standard household 120 volt end to plug your heat press into.

Of course, when doing this, you won't be able to have your trailer plugged in to run the A/C and fridge. But you might could do this in short bursts and make it fine.

avolnek · 07-19-2013, 11:34 AM

You can sure try plugging the press into the outlet on the side of the camper but I don't think it will last long for you... Your best bet would be if they can provide you with the 30 amp rv plug as well as a 20 amp outlet. Most camp sites are set up this way, I am aware you wont be at a typical camp site but it's worth asking...

vizsla owner · 07-19-2013, 11:40 AM

I'll have to look what the A/C draw is. I saw on another post that a fridge is only about 2 amps.

A/C = 12
Fridge = 2
Press = 14.5
Total = 28.5 amps when everything is on.

My thought about splitting it means I can put an adapter on one side so the press doesn't have to run through the TT electrical but I still have enough AMPs for everything to run.

bakken · 07-19-2013, 11:51 AM

If you have a spare spot for an extra breaker, I would install a dedicated outside plug for your press, with an appropriately-sized feed wire. That way you wouldn't have to worry about overloading anything.
And you could always check your voltage drop when the air is on and you are using the press, just to make sure it is ok.
And you can run your fridge on propane, as it doesn't use much at all.

**wmtire** · 07-19-2013, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vizsla owner

I'll have to look what the A/C draw is. I saw on another post that a fridge is only about 2 amps.

Here again, different makes/models/sizes of refrigerators will use different amps...just like the air-conditioners. These numbers are just guestimations, and we would need more specifics to provide more specific answers.

2 amps could have possibly been DC (12 volt) draw, and not AC (120 volt) draw

Here is a chart that shows general averages of electrical draws from appliances.......but will always depend on other factors.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...aws-17300.html

avolnek · 07-19-2013, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vizsla owner

I'll have to look what the A/C draw is. I saw on another post that a fridge is only about 2 amps.

A/C = 12
Fridge = 2
Press = 14.5
Total = 28.5 amps when everything is on.

My thought about splitting it means I can put an adapter on one side so the press doesn't have to run through the TT electrical but I still have enough AMPs for everything to run.

I would have to say that the fridge and A/C are probably a little low. Even if they weren't the issue wont be the running amps it will be the start up... You can pull as much as 75 amps on start up for the air conditioner...

I definitely see it worth trying... Worst case would be you trip a breaker... no big deal... then you know you need to break something off onto a separate circuit.

jriddering · 07-19-2013, 12:07 PM

Refrigerator on gas is 2 amps at 12 volts? That is 24 watts. It would be .2 amps of AC power.

Dave Lyon · 07-19-2013, 12:16 PM

What is the chance that all three will be running at once? I would flip the fridge on propane when planning to use the heat press, or the entire three days for that matter.

bakken · 07-19-2013, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jriddering

Refrigerator on gas is 2 amps at 12 volts? That is 24 watts. It would be .2 amps of AC power.

When the fridge is on gas, the propane does the cooling.
When on AC, the electricity powers the cooling.
So you can't compare the two.

jriddering · 07-19-2013, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bakken

When the fridge is on gas, the propane does the cooling.
When on AC, the electricity powers the cooling.
So you can't compare the two.

I am showing how little power is used in propane mode. He has a lot of AC power he wants to use. I was showing that when in propane mode, his use of converted AC power won't affect rest of what he wants to run

OldCoot · 07-19-2013, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avolnek

I would have to say that the fridge and A/C are probably a little low. Even if they weren't the issue wont be the running amps it will be the start up... You can pull as much as 75 amps on start up for the air conditioner...

75 Amps for a 13.5 AC?????

**Herk7769** · 07-19-2013, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avolnek

You can pull as much as 75 amps on start up for the air conditioner...

I believe you are using the Locked Rotor Amperage for both the compressor and the fan. (The LRA on my 15k is 53 amps).

However startup amps can be no higher then 1.56 times the running amps in order to get a UL rating.

Having said that, I recommend a small Honda EU2000i for the press unless 50 amps is available at the pedestal. Most 30 amp only services have the 20 amp duplex breaker pig-tailed off the 30 amp breaker and are not additive to the available 30 amp service.

If your camper is wired like mine, the outlet outside is circuit protected at 15 amps and the fridge is on that circuit. Blowing that breaker and not noticing it could be problematic. Additionally, having the iron on and having the compressor/fan start, could open your main breaker. (also problematic).

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