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Old 09-09-2014, 12:02 PM   #1
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Stolen Battery and cut cables

We just got our work & play trailer back from the Rv dealer (had been there 7 weeks for warranty repairs!....and its only a year old)

We did not have a chance to remove the battery as we nornally do (too busy working).... and some SCUMBAG came along and stole the battery!!

But worst of all they CUT the battery cables... they wrere too short to start with but now... we have to repace them.

Anyon every had to do this? How hard? Do you get but joints and new ends or do you have to replace the whole thing for the inverter... I am thinking.

Please help if you have any suggestions.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:25 PM   #2
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I would just get 2 new cables the length you need.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:29 PM   #3
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Hey Old Coot... and how do we attach them? Dont they go to the inverter?
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:32 PM   #4
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Just my $0.02 worth, but my rv dealer has cameras all over the property. (don't know if it helps or not ) I know all the lots say they are not responsible for personal property left with your unit, but it would seem only right for the dealer to step up and assist with repairs and maybe even sell you a battery at cost. Depending on your repairs they may have needed 12 v power to work on the TT, if you had removed the battery it may have hindered them making the repair. Yes the butt connectors should work fine I have used them in marine applications for years. Not worth making a insurance claim, I had my battery stolen a few months back, no cables cut they unbolted the cables and even covered the battery box. The helped themselves to 12 battery's at the storage facility that night. I feel your pain, it just sucks someone has to steel your S##t.

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Old 09-09-2014, 12:41 PM   #5
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I think the positive cable meets with a thermal fuse on the chassis and then continues to the inverter. So the lengths (and trouble) shouldn't be too long.
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Old 09-09-2014, 12:57 PM   #6
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X2 contacting the dealer and, if nothing else, let them know they have a pilfering problem.
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:03 PM   #7
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The unit was home from the dealer... at our storage unit. Thats what sucks!!
We can replace the battery... its the fact they CUT the cables to do!!
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Firth View Post
Just my $0.02 worth, but my rv dealer has cameras all over the property. (don't know if it helps or not ) I know all the lots say they are not responsible for personal property left with your unit, but it would seem only right for the dealer to step up and assist with repairs and maybe even sell you a battery at cost. Depending on your repairs they may have needed 12 v power to work on the TT, if you had removed the battery it may have hindered them making the repair. Yes the butt connectors should work fine I have used them in marine applications for years. Not worth making a insurance claim, I had my battery stolen a few months back, no cables cut they unbolted the cables and even covered the battery box. The helped themselves to 12 battery's at the storage facility that night. I feel your pain, it just sucks someone has to steel your S##t.

Chuck "still in Va "
I wouldn't call batteries personal property, that refers to your items inside the RV, Batteries should be considered part. If they stole the RV would that mean they are not responsible because it's personal property, I don't think so. They should step up and replace everything.....
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:05 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by campnqueen View Post
Hey Old Coot... and how do we attach them? Dont they go to the inverter?
No, they go to terminal blocks that are connected to the converter, not inverter.
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campnqueen View Post
Hey Old Coot... and how do we attach them? Dont they go to the inverter?
Without photos it is tough to give advice I think.

If you have only one battery and the only wires went to the current limiter and the frame, you should not be looking at a very expensive total replacement (except the battery of course).

Wire and terminals should be available at Home Depot or Lowes (bring a short piece to make sure you get the correct gauge. I think they are sized for 40 amps DC (8 gauge is OK for less than 10 foot run); 6 if longer.

You do not need to run it all the way to your converter (not "inverter" I am thinking - unless you had one of course); just to the current limiter under the frame.
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