strange electrical problems

[tommy3]

Just brought home our new 2015 Columbus 325 RL, yesterday. It is a 50 amp unit, but because our old unit was 30 amp, had to hook to it with a "y" adapter supplying 30 amps and 15 amps. Only turned on the lights and furnace in order not to draw too many amps. Everything worked great, all lights, furnace, slides, auto leveling. After two hours, went out and everything was off, except the lights on both microwaves. All electrical outlets have power, but that's it. I have power coming into the unit, no breakers are tripped, all 12 volt fuses are good. The batteries will not operate the slides or the leveling system. Haven't checked the batteries, since it got dark, but they are brand new. Called an electrician to come look, but he couldn't find the problem, but said he wasn't familiar with campers. Is there an electrical guru out there?

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by tommy3

Just brought home our new 2015 Columbus 325 RL, yesterday. It is a 50 amp unit, but because our old unit was 30 amp, had to hook to it with a "y" adapter supplying 30 amps and 15 amps. Only turned on the lights and furnace in order not to draw too many amps. Everything worked great, all lights, furnace, slides, auto leveling. After two hours, went out and everything was off, except the lights on both microwaves. All electrical outlets have power, but that's it. I have power coming into the unit, no breakers are tripped, all 12 volt fuses are good. The batteries will not operate the slides or the leveling system. Haven't checked the batteries, since it got dark, but they are brand new. Called an electrician to come look, but he couldn't find the problem, but said he wasn't familiar with campers. Is there an electrical guru out there?

There is a battery cut off switch that needs to be "ON" to allow the battery to be charged. Otherwise, no 12v systems (slides, landing gear, interior lights, water pump, furnace, fridge etc.) will work. Look for a battery switch somewhere near the battery or in your UDC.


BTW - The battery switch needs to be on all the time, when towing and also when plugged into shore power. Otherwise, your battery will not charge and will not supply power to the unit including the breakaway switch while towing.

[VinceU]

Originally Posted by rracer5

There is a battery cut off switch that needs to be "ON" to allow the battery to be charged. Otherwise, no 12v systems (slides, landing gear, interior lights, water pump, furnace, fridge etc.) will work. Look for a battery switch somewhere near the battery or in your UDC.

This is true with only some RV's but many have converters that are always on line when powered with AC. Battery then is removed when switch is opened. Ops problem is most likely the resettable fuse in the cable -battery to DC panel-

[rracer5]

Hold on a sec. I may have had a senior moment.

If the battery switch were off, then no 12v power would get OUT either so, the switch may not be the problem.

Now I'm leaning toward your source of power that you're plugged into. I had an issue at a CG once where 1 leg of the 50amp receptacle in the pedestal was "OUT". This meant that only "half" of my unit was getting A/C power. I found this out when only one of my Air Conditioners worked and then found about half of my 110v outlets were out also.

In your case, if you have a leg on your shore power out, it may be the leg that feeds the part of your power center that charges your battery.

Just throwing this out there for places for you to check.

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by VinceU

This is true with only some RV's but many have converters that are always on line when powered with AC. Battery then is removed when switch is opened. Ops problem is most likely the resettable fuse in the cable -battery to DC panel-

Yup.....caught myself in my previous post.

[Flybob]

I would start with your dog bone adapter. Sounds like you never had shore power to the RV. Try an AC outlet to see if it is live. Also check to make sure you did not have the WH set on elect and not have WH full. That will fry the heating element and can cause the house GFI to trip.