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Old 11-28-2018, 05:05 PM   #1
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Subpanel Ground Question *Inverter Install*

Ok, so I am installing a Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 watt inverter in my Rockwood 2511s. I am disconnecting the converter completely.

I have the shore cable coming in and will put that in a new small 2 breaker subpanel with a 30 amp breaker. Then I have the 3 AC wires leaving that panel and into the inverter input. The 3 AC wires leave the inverter and go into the main panel input to feed all the breakers.

My questions are about grounding. I plan to connect the grounds together in the new sub panel that feeds the inverter.

1)Should they be grounded to the box itself?
2)Should the box be grounded to the frame of the trailer?
3)I do not plan to connect neutral to ground anywhere in this system. Is that correct?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 11-28-2018, 05:46 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by 24v View Post
Ok, so I am installing a Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 watt inverter in my Rockwood 2511s. I am disconnecting the converter completely.

I have the shore cable coming in and will put that in a new small 2 breaker subpanel with a 30 amp breaker. Then I have the 3 AC wires leaving that panel and into the inverter input. The 3 AC wires leave the inverter and go into the main panel input to feed all the breakers.

My questions are about grounding. I plan to connect the grounds together in the new sub panel that feeds the inverter.

1)Should they be grounded to the box itself?
2)Should the box be grounded to the frame of the trailer?
3)I do not plan to connect neutral to ground anywhere in this system. Is that correct?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Do not connect neutrals and grounds. Your trailer is a sub panel to the pedistal which is a subpanel to the main Park electricial panel. That is where the neutrals and grounds bond together. All neutral and grounds must be isolated untill they get back to the main electricial panel.

If you get rid of you converter completly, how are you gonna run your 12 volt systems and charge your batteries?
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Old 11-28-2018, 05:49 PM   #3
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Do not connect neutrals and grounds. Your trailer is a sub panel to the pedistal which is a subpanel to the main Park electricial panel. That is where the neutrals and grounds bond together. All neutral and grounds must be isolated untill they get back to the main electricial panel.
That was what I figured, thanks for the input.



What about the grounds in the box, and grounding the box to the frame?
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Old 11-29-2018, 01:54 AM   #4
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That was what I figured, thanks for the input.



What about the grounds in the box, and grounding the box to the frame?
Yes, attach the grounds to the frame. Not the neutrals.
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Old 11-29-2018, 09:45 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by 24v View Post
Ok, so I am installing a Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 watt inverter in my Rockwood 2511s. I am disconnecting the converter completely.

I have the shore cable coming in and will put that in a new small 2 breaker subpanel with a 30 amp breaker. Then I have the 3 AC wires leaving that panel and into the inverter input. The 3 AC wires leave the inverter and go into the main panel input to feed all the breakers.

My questions are about grounding. I plan to connect the grounds together in the new sub panel that feeds the inverter.

1)Should they be grounded to the box itself?
2)Should the box be grounded to the frame of the trailer?
3)I do not plan to connect neutral to ground anywhere in this system. Is that correct?

Thanks in advance for any help.
Yes to both 1 & 2.
UL 458
Standard for Power Converters/Inverters and Power Converter/Inverter Systems for Land Vehicles and Marine Crafts
UL 458 is the code for ground to neutral bond inside RV Inverters. The Xantrex Freedom XC 2000 is UL 458 certified.

I had to do the research to find out about UL 458 with my install of the Samlex EVO-2212 Inverter/Charger in my FR3.
Expanding compartment space for 2200 Watt Inverter/Charger
Just remember the Inverter is only one leg of the system. You will need batteries and a way to recharge them. I choose Battle Born LiFePO4 & Solar.

The Victron BMV-712 acts like a fuel gauge for my batteries. It lets me know how many Amp hours are left.

Good luck with your install.

Don't forget turn off your electric hot water heater & heat pump when your inverter is on.
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:03 PM   #6
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Just remember the Inverter is only one leg of the system. You will need batteries and a way to recharge them.
The inverter is also a charger and I have a generator for when my 4 6 volt batteries get low.
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:10 PM   #7
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If you get rid of you converter completly, how are you gonna run your 12 volt systems and charge your batteries?
The batteries are the 12v system, and the charger that is built into the inverter will charge them when I give it shore power or connect the generator.
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:11 PM   #8
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Don't forget turn off your electric hot water heater & heat pump when your inverter is on.
What is a heat pump?
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:17 PM   #9
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Heat pump is an a/c system used to provide heat. It is an a/c compressor with a gas reversing valve.
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:22 PM   #10
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Heat pump is an a/c system used to provide heat. It is an a/c compressor with a gas reversing valve.
So would our trailer have a heat pump, and a gas heater? I'm assuming the heat pump is a part of the ac unit?
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:31 PM   #11
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Ok, did a little more reading. It appears as if the propane heater and heat pump, are both controlled by the thermostat. Looks like it runs the heat pump first unless there is no power to it, and will run both if you demand a big heating change. So based on this I will remove the breaker and wiring from the main panel for the AC and move it to the sub panel that will also feed the inverter. That way when there is no generator, or shore power input, there will be no power to the AC/Heat pump. Does that seem ok?
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:33 PM   #12
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Actually no need to disconnect/rewire the A/C circuit. Just flip the circuit breaker off to the A/C circuit when on inverter power. If you forget, no problem except that the inverter breaker will trip if the A/C tries to start.
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:45 PM   #13
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The inverter is also a charger and I have a generator for when my 4 6 volt batteries get low.
My six solar panels are recharging my batteries whenever the sun is up. The FR3 engine alternator also recharges the batteries if we are on the road. I only run my generator every few months to keep the carb from gumming up.

What do you use to measure your batteries? You will shorten your battery life if they are discharged below 50%.

My Samlex is on 24/7. When I disconnect from shore power, I still have 120v power to all outlets & the microwave. It is like having a UPS for my motorhome. Whenever we stop for lunch or boondock, My wife has power to cook. She loves to use her Instant Pot. I use my CPAP at night. All without using the generator. I use about 150 amp hours per day and the solar panels have the batteries back to 90% by noon.

I will only need the generator to power the A/C in hot weather.


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So would our trailer have a heat pump, and a gas heater? I'm assuming the heat pump is a part of the ac unit?
I found out I had a heat pump when I turned on the furnace & the inverter went up to 1,440 watts. You should have a button on your thermostat for furnace only. I just turned off the A/C at the circuit breaker. You can do the same for your hot water heater.

PS. Don't forget to switch your fridge to gas only. It will use 300 watts in 120v mode.

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Old 11-29-2018, 03:54 PM   #14
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Actually no need to disconnect/rewire the A/C circuit. Just flip the circuit breaker off to the A/C circuit when on inverter power. If you forget, no problem except that the inverter breaker will trip if the A/C tries to start.
I'd rather just wire it so it works all the time. We never camp anywhere where we would be plugged into shore power. Do you see any issue with wiring it the way I stated in my previous post?
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:56 PM   #15
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I found out I had a heat pump when I turned on the furnace & the inverter went up to 1,440 watts. You should have a button on your thermostat for furnace only. I just turned off the A/C at the circuit breaker. You can do the same for your hot water heater.
I don't see any switch to change to just furnace. I wonder if it is possible that I don't have a heat pump in my AC. It is a coleman 13500.



For the hot water heater I have a choice on the panel of gas or electric, so we will just stick with gas on that one, same for the fridge.
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Old 11-29-2018, 04:31 PM   #16
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To run everything off a 2000W inverter you really need to watch your usage. Of course if you never plus in it is still way more power then without it.

I believe a split or separate panel is generally used then some things like the AC and water heater do not connect to the inverter
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Old 11-29-2018, 04:50 PM   #17
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I'd rather just wire it so it works all the time. We never camp anywhere where we would be plugged into shore power. Do you see any issue with wiring it the way I stated in my previous post?
Your Xantrex Freedom XC 2000:
Built-in 30A AC Transfer Relay;
Senses when outside AC Power is present and transfers the load from the inverter to the source of incoming power (shore or generator). The unit also automatically switches from invert mode to charge mode:
Don't forget the Freedom X/ XC remote panel with 25' Cable 808-0817-01.
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Old 11-29-2018, 05:14 PM   #18
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To run everything off a 2000W inverter you really need to watch your usage. Of course if you never plus in it is still way more power then without it.

I believe a split or separate panel is generally used then some things like the AC and water heater do not connect to the inverter
Thanks. I actually have experience with a 2000 watt inverter and my 4 batteries on my last trailer. It had a smaller AC that would actually run through the inverter. I figured it is best to split it this way as it will force the furnace to run instead of the heat pump, with no human interaction. I like to keep it as simple as possible.
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Old 11-29-2018, 05:17 PM   #19
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Your Xantrex Freedom XC 2000:
Built-in 30A AC Transfer Relay;
Senses when outside AC Power is present and transfers the load from the inverter to the source of incoming power (shore or generator). The unit also automatically switches from invert mode to charge mode:
Don't forget the Freedom X/ XC remote panel with 25' Cable 808-0817-01.
I did not buy the remote as I mounted the inverter in a place where I can look in the compartment and view the screen on the unit. I may add the remote at a later date.


As for the transfer switch, I was aware of it. It wouldn't help when there is no genny or shore power and the air conditioner tries to run off the batteries. Now it cannot do that.



I almost have all the wiring complete. Just need to hook up the 2 110 cables to the in and out at the inverter. I've been working on this a little at a time since last weekend. The worst part was dropping the coroplast sheet under the trailer to run all the wires. I also replaced the 12v run from the batteries to the panel with a much larger wire as the stock stuff is very small.
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Old 11-29-2018, 06:44 PM   #20
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Got it all done and working. Thanks for the help guys!
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