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Old 04-30-2013, 11:58 PM   #71
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Thank you, ok to share photos with camping world??
Sure you can. Also the panel cover and led screen can be either on the right of the left of the front of the box depending on your install.
Because the way my cable comes into the rig I decided to do it this way.
Power coming into the left side and out into the transfer panel.
All I did was cut my 50 amp cable enough to make it work.
It actually only took about an hour for me and I worked slow.

It really isn't rocket science my friend.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:13 PM   #72
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Sure you can. Also the panel cover and led screen can be either on the right of the left of the front of the box depending on your install.
Because the way my cable comes into the rig I decided to do it this way.
Power coming into the left side and out into the transfer panel.
All I did was cut my 50 amp cable enough to make it work.
It actually only took about an hour for me and I worked slow.

It really isn't rocket science my friend.
Purchased the remote and CW will install both for $240. So glad to be done with this thanks everyone!!
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:43 AM   #73
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I am in the process of installing the Progressive Industries 50amp hard-wired unit into my Coachman Mirada 35ds. The #6 wire is difficult to work with...getting the stranded wire into the posts to screw them down is almost impossible. I'm wondering what electricians do to make that job easier i.e. do they cut off a number of strands to make the full wire fit more easily? I'm told DON'T CUT STRANDS Regardless, the T1-T3 side is done (the side on the transfer box), but I need to make sure the sensors are on the wires properly i.e. the arrow on the sensor side is on the side of the T1 and T3 terminals. These sensors(doughnuts over the wires) don't make the job any easier.
From everything I've read, the Progressive Industries units are well-made equipment, and their customer support is top notch.
I'm thinking I'll take off the jumper to make the delay (for air conditioning) from 15 seconds (with the jumper on) to 136 seconds (with the jumper off) so I don't need to worry whether my air conditioner has a delay or not. It's only a minute or two delay which I can live with. Anyone see any issues with that thinking?
I continue today with attaching the plug side of the wire to the PI box. That should go a lot easier since I'm not dealing with any doughnuts (sensors) over the wires.
I've received some advice on tinning the wire before trying to insert into terminal. Instructions do specifically state no soldering, and I've read about problems with tinning e.g. insulation melt. Probably issues with techniques, but I don't do a lot of soldering, so would avoid the tinning.
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:39 AM   #74
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They most defently do not cut strands to make the wires fit. Doing so reduces the gauge of the wire, rendering the original guage meaningless. You can twist it, or tin the leads. When tinning is done correctly, it works very well.
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Old 05-18-2013, 08:56 AM   #75
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Right. Do not cut strands. The terminal holes are plenty big enough for the whole wire. Yes, it's difficult.

BTW, the arrows are not "pointing" to the terminals (I know the instructions are clear as mud). It's just that the side that has the arrow on it is supposed to be next to the terminals.

I agree that the longer delay is safer than the shorter one and is still hardly long enough to notice.
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:33 AM   #76
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Cutting strands at the point of connection will also cause dramatic heat increase on the wires. If you are having that much trouble connecting the wires, there is probably not enough of the outer cord cut back. You should have at least 4 - 5 inches of wire to work with, then expose about 3/4 inch of bare wire to put into the terminals.
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:22 PM   #77
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I bought a piece of high strand 4-6, which is very flexible and would twist together very tightly with little effort. It was more expensive, but at the time I wasn't sure how much room I had to maneuver. If you're not efficient in tinning, I would not recommend, it could make it harder for you.
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:01 PM   #78
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I used a short length of SOOW 6/4 between the SP and the panel. The conductors are made up of very fine copper strands.

Easy to work with, but be careful of loose strands when you insert it.

Also, make sure that the set screw is all the way out, as it will make it difficult to get the entire conductor inserted if it's not.

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Old 05-18-2013, 07:13 PM   #79
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They most defently do not cut strands to make the wires fit. Doing so reduces the gauge of the wire, rendering the original guage meaningless. You can twist it, or tin the leads. When tinning is done correctly, it works very well.
X2 tinning...just did some a week or so ago. twist them as tight as you can, but not to breaking point, and tin. They will then fit nicely.
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Old 05-18-2013, 07:41 PM   #80
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Curse a lot, it seemed to help me
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