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Old 01-15-2013, 03:44 PM   #11
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I would certainly want to know that I couldn't use the AC AND WATER-HEATER before I paid $700+ for this thing!

His was a 50-amp unit, so one would hope that main AC and water heater were on different circuits. A second AC could have been a problem then.

In the comments he indicated that all agreed that his 50-amp unit had 35-amp breakers. That doesn't sound right to anyone, but apparently Doug wouldn't stand behind that.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:55 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by BarryD0706 View Post
I would certainly want to know that I couldn't use the AC AND WATER-HEATER before I paid $700+ for this thing!

His was a 50-amp unit, so one would hope that main AC and water heater were on different circuits. A second AC could have been a problem then.

In the comments he indicated that all agreed that his 50-amp unit had 35-amp breakers. That doesn't sound right to anyone, but apparently Doug wouldn't stand behind that.
I went back and re-read that post. He states that the park power was 25 amps per leg. There are 50 amps per leg available provided the incoming voltage is correct. If he is BOOSTING at the 2 stage setting (hard to tell without incoming and outgoing voltmeters), he could easily trip the internal protection with a 15K AC start up current, the water heater heating on AC, and the converter powering the 12 VDC items in his rig. I am sure the 2nd AC was on the other leg and was no problem.

Here is the engineering test of the degree of boost provided in each stage.
Again, Frank would be a better source of information on his equipment.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:02 PM   #13
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OK read down all the way:

A brief update and I'll let this alone. Franks contacted me and answered a couple of my questions. For one thing, they are now installing 50-amp breakers in their 50-amp unit as opposed to the 35-amp breakers that are in the "older 50-amp" units. The sales/tech guy said he would mail me a couple of replacement breakers but I still don't know if this chassis will handle the 50-amp breakers or if I'll get the 35-amp size.
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This post was in 2007. Their spec sheet for 50 amp units specifies the 50 amps input is max on each leg so, I guess this is moot.

There was a GIANT ad in the way and I initially did not know there were many posts below the ad. (embarrassed)

Sounds like even though Frank was not responsible for the unit (when it was bought) he stood behind the product and offered to upgrade his circuit protection to current standards.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:06 PM   #14
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Does any one know what if any effect installing the Frank's unit would have on my factory warranty? Dues the installation take any more than simply plugging it in between the shore power and the camper? Thanks JT
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:13 PM   #15
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Does any one know what if any effect installing the Frank's unit would have on my factory warranty? Dues the installation take any more than simply plugging it in between the shore power and the camper? Thanks JT
Your shore power cord plugs into the side of the unit and the unit's pigtail plugs into the pedestal.

Before I moved it inside (still using the plug system so I can remove it if I ever needed to move it to my next camper) I used to chain it under the slide out and used my 25 foot extension cord to go to the pole. It is water resistant but not waterproof.

It should have NO effect on warranty since your camper is not modified in any way and only pure filtered and surge protected power is allowed inside.

FYI -
15K AIR startup current = 28.5 amps at 120 volts or 3,420 watts
15K AIR running current - 14.5 amps at 120 volts or 1,740 watts
Suburban Water Heater AC current = 1000 Watts at 120 volts or 8.5 amps

So if the incoming voltage drops to 105 volts, the inductive draw changes

At 105 VAC input voltage (no Franks unit)

15K AIR startup power = 3,420 watts @ 105 volts is 32.5 amps
15K AIR running power - 1740 watts @ 105 volts is 16.6 amps
Suburban Water Heater AC power = 1000 Watts at 105 volts is 9.5 amps

To boost 105 volts to 123 volts (from sheet) is a boost of 18 volts with a 300 watt load. The higher the load and the lower the voltage the more amps are required to do the boost. As you can see when boosting voltage to protect your inductive and restive loads in your camper, careful monitoring of your usage is required even with 50 amp circuit protection if the power is as bad as mine was in Gettysburg last summer when it was 105 degrees outside. The 30 amp run to our campsite was aluminum wire and we were not getting 100 volts on the pole.

Without our Franks, the air would not run at all, even with the fridge and water heater on propane. It saved our vacation. Even WITH the Franks there was one day when the pole power dropped to sub 100 volts we lost power completely when the Franks killed power to the camper to protect it.
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:21 PM   #16
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Heyh Herk 7769.you mentioned on post 15 that you used plugs for the surge protector..were they twist locks or normals. I am still waiting for the weather to warm up to install mine.
Thanks
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:24 PM   #17
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Heyh Herk 7769.you mentioned on post 15 that you used plugs for the surge protector..were they twist locks or normals. I am still waiting for the weather to warm up to install mine.
Thanks
My Franks has a 30 amp Male Pigtail (that goes into the pedestal) and a Female 30 amp RV socket on the box itself.

I bought two pigtails (one male and one Female) and wired it into the camper's 30 amp romex to the power center. This way it is not "permanently" installed and can be removed quickly if it ever goes bad or I trade camper's.
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