Think my Fuse panel is blown

[Spareparts]

Fuse panel is blowed, 6 out of 9 fuses don’t have fire. No lights just stereo water pump , and battery test works . I put a jumper wire on one that’s getting fire and jump it to the other side they all work, sounds like a blowed circuit ? I would appreciate any help . Thanks in advance !!

[Flybob]

Start by checking the two large 30-40A reverse polarity protection fuses. Then check each blown fuse individually with an ohm meter. If they are open (blown) replace. It is unlikely you have a major short somewhere as more fuses would have blown when you did your jumper test. If you did any battery work it is possible you blew a reverse polarity fuse.

[Spareparts]

Originally Posted by Flybob

Start by checking the two large 30-40A reverse polarity protection fuses. Then check each blown fuse individually with an ohm meter. If they are open (blown) replace. It is unlikely you have a major short somewhere as more fuses would have blown when you did your jumper test. If you did any battery work it is possible you blew a reverse polarity fuse.

I did change my battery, where is the fuse at you was talking about? And is there a reset or do I just change the fuse ? This is my first camper. I know a lot about cars and motorcycles but not so much when it comes to campers !! And thanks for the reply

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Spareparts

I did change my battery, where is the fuse at you was talking about? And is there a reset or do I just change the fuse ? This is my first camper. I know a lot about cars and motorcycles but not so much when it comes to campers !! And thanks for the reply

Look at your converter. you will find two 30 or 40 amp fuses off to the side by them selves.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by cavie

Look at your converter. you will find two 30 or 40 amp fuses off to the side by them selves.

... and there's usually a label saying "Reverse Polarity Fuses".

[Spareparts]

Originally Posted by Mr. Dan

... and there's usually a label saying "Reverse Polarity Fuses".

Ok, I’ll check it this morning!! Thanks again

[TheWolfPaq82]

What I never understood was why some manufacturers used BLACK/WHITE cables to the battery. BLACK/WHITE is normally reserved for AC circuits and RED / BLACK for DC circuits. My old Jayco was Black/White and our Cherokee is Red/Black from the Battery.

AC 115V = Black...LOAD / White...NEUTRAL
DC 12V (Battery) = Red...POSITIVE / Black...NEGATIVE

[tomkatb]

I have done a lot of work on English cars.

We never trust wire color.

Reversing battery leads is common.

Using a voltmeter start at the battery and test all wires logically to the panel.

You likely have a broken wire or bad connection. Or blown fuse.

Is power ok plugged into 110?

[Bama Rambler]

Originally Posted by Spareparts

Fuse panel is blowed, 6 out of 9 fuses don’t have fire. No lights just stereo, water pump, and battery test works . I put a jumper wire on one that’s getting fire and jump it to the other side they all work, sounds like a blowed circuit ? I would appreciate any help. Thanks in advance !!

Reverse polarity fuses are usually "all or nothing", so if they were blown, you shouldn't have power to any fuses in the panel. You say that some fuses have power to them and some do not. That's puzzling. It's like the DC bus is broken in the panel.

Can you post a picture and/or model of the power panel you have?
And it would be nice if you'd indicate which fuses have power and which don't.

[D W]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

What I never understood was why some manufacturers used BLACK/WHITE cables to the battery. BLACK/WHITE is normally reserved for AC circuits and RED / BLACK for DC circuits. My old Jayco was Black/White and our Cherokee is Red/Black from the Battery.

AC 115V = Black...LOAD / White...NEUTRAL
DC 12V (Battery) = Red...POSITIVE / Black...NEGATIVE

As much as I can tell AC wiring is governed by the NEC. DC wiring seems to be at the prerogative of fabricator.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Spareparts

Fuse panel is blowed, 6 out of 9 fuses don’t have fire. No lights just stereo water pump , and battery test works . I put a jumper wire on one that’s getting fire and jump it to the other side they all work, sounds like a blowed circuit ? I would appreciate any help . Thanks in advance !!

The fuse & distribution board is a pretty simple printed circuit card with no exotic components on it. (Sometimes two boards stacked together).

Speaking from 45 years of electronics experience, my expert "guess" is that one of the copper traces (sometimes called "lands") on the back side of the card has acted like a fuse and opened. It would be pretty easy to find, especially if you correlated it to which fuses were hot and which were not.

If this were my unit, I would solder a piece of wire across the break. I've done it before--on my dishwasher, on the circuit card of my son's residential clothes dryer, and on the engine computer of my 1992 Mitsubishi. And many more.

If you don't have experience doing this, you could simply buy a new distribution board--you don't have to buy the whole converter. Both WFCO and Progressive Dynamics will sell you the board; they might even give it to you under warranty.

If you do replace the board, here's a hint.

• Disconnect from 120v shore power.
• Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
• At the distribution board, label and disconnect wires to the converter and to the battery.
• Now, holding the new board in one hand, one at a time, remove an individual fuse wire from the old board and connect it to the new board. Repeat until all are transferred.
• Unmount the old board.
• Connect the converter wires and battery wires to the new board.
• Mount the new board.
• Transfer all the fuses.
• Reconnect the battery cable at the battery.
• Reconnect 120v shore power.

Larry