Towing in cold weather with tank heaters on

[TitanMike]

This will be the first time I've towed a TT in cold weather that is equipped with holding tank heaters. Previous trailer just got the "Rock Salt" treatment.

My new Flagstaff has tank heaters and I would like to hear from others with experience towing in cold weather with the heaters on. How well does the vehicle charge connection keep up with the heaters? Do the house batteries stay charged? Is the heater able to keep up with the cooling effect of vehicle moving through freezing air.

Any information on other's experience would be welcome. On paper the tank heaters shouldn't draw excessive current and my TV has more than enough alternator capacity to keep up with the TV needs and send some charging current off to the Trailer batteries. Is this true in the "Real World".

[CHICKDOE]

I would expect them to use quite a bit of power. for sure more than the tv can supply. how long the batteries would last I don't know.


I have read to not turn the tank heaters on if the tank is empty. do you want to the extra weight of having fluids in the tank?

[Cypressloser]

IMO, it is the tank valves that are most likely to freeze during travel and not the tank contents but it all depends on how well the underbelly including pipes and valves are insulated. It may be good practice to continue to do what worked in the past to play it safe until you feel comfortable.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

I would expect them to use quite a bit of power. for sure more than the tv can supply. how long the batteries would last I don't know.


I have read to not turn the tank heaters on if the tank is empty. do you want to the extra weight of having fluids in the tank?

Only thing I know about the heaters on my tt is what I read in the brochure that came in the Owners Manual. The Tank heaters are supposed to only draw 4.8 amp (65 watts) which doesn't seem like that much current although each tank has a heater so total is just under 10 amp. Not much heat either although the tanks are totally enclosed.

I like to empty tanks before breaking camp but during this trip a good part of it will be rest stops and parking lots until I reach my destination. Dumping won't be an option every day.

With other loads like Refrigerator and battery charge I'm wondering how well they would work both keeping tank "slushy" at least as well as putting some charge back into battery. Not worried about fully charging batteries as I'll start the generator when I land at next stop but any amount of charge while driving can't be bad.

Anyone with experience running them on the road in freezing weather ?

[youroo]

Power draw not a issue going down the road or stopped plugged into camp site! Our unit has heat pads on the Ex tubes and Valves as well,enclosed belly also,BUT if it is Freezing Temp for a Length of Time,all bets are Off! Tanks, valves,pipes heat pads are controlled by Safe Temp reading so No issue "Empty or Full"! Youroo!!

[kayo]

Tank heaters run on 120/1/60. Because the heaters generate heat (approx. 310 btu's per watt of electricity) you could not carry enough batteries to provide the electric power to keep the tank heaters on

[youroo]

Originally Posted by kayo

Tank heaters run on 120/1/60. Because the heaters generate heat (approx. 310 btu's per watt of electricity) you could not carry enough batteries to provide the electric power to keep the tank heaters on

You must be talking about "Cattle watering Tank Heaters",we are talking about RV 12Volt heat pads that are used by Forest River Divisions! Youroo!!

[Old_hippies]

We have driven quite a bit in cold weather with tank heaters on and noticed no issues re power use

[prestonj12]

I've not driven with mine on as I'll travel mostly empty. I have used them parked down to -15 F with no freeze up. However I also put 2-3 gallons of windshield wiper fluid in each tank so the super low freezing point liquid is down at the valves.

[aeblank]

Fyi, windshield fluid does freeze. It has enough alcohol in it that it does not EXPAND when it freezes. While the freeze point is lower, the " protects to" temperature is below it's freezing point (but the system is protected because it didn't expand and crack anything).

Useless knowledge of the day.....

[dbledan]

Any reason you would not dump some anti-freeze down the drains after dumping? Good insurance and less chance of a dead battery.

You have me conducting an experiment on my next outing as I would like to know as well. Time to get the meter out.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by dbledan

Any reason you would not dump some anti-freeze down the drains after dumping? Good insurance and less chance of a dead battery.

You have me conducting an experiment on my next outing as I would like to know as well. Time to get the meter out.

RV antifreeze might settle near the valves while sitting at a campground but on the road? Any use of the water system and the antifreeze will be diluted with the motion of the vehicle.

With the temp's I expect to encounter I believe that the heater should be able to keep tank above freezing and motion should circulate into the valve area which I will have well wrapped. With the "belly cover" only a very little pipe and the valves stick out in the air stream.

I may just keep using rock salt even though it only gives me about a 4-5 degree improvement is reduced freezing point..

I'm not a big fan of antifreeze or W/S solution. How Septic Tank Friendly are they (as well as wallet friendly).

[corocky1998]

During the past two hunting seasons in Colorado I have just added about 2 gallons of RV antifreeze to each waste tank to fill up the valve areas. I have not had any problems so far, last year we drove back to Denver, about a 5 hour drive, in a snow storm with outside temps in the teens. We had more issues with the water lines freezing when it would get below zero overnight.
I would imagine rock salt is no good for the bacteria in your septic tank either. It has been used for millennia to preserve food from bacteria.
If you are really worried, empty your tanks dry and fill them up when you get to where you want to go.

[Scheinin]

Originally Posted by kayo

Tank heaters run on 120/1/60. Because the heaters generate heat (approx. 310 btu's per watt of electricity) you could not carry enough batteries to provide the electric power to keep the tank heaters on

I don't think so. I travel with my heaters on, and a residential refrigerator , with no problems.

[FrankG]

Originally Posted by aeblank

Fyi, windshield fluid does freeze. It has enough alcohol in it that it does not EXPAND when it freezes. While the freeze point is lower, the " protects to" temperature is below it's freezing point (but the system is protected because it didn't expand and crack anything).

Useless knowledge of the day.....

The washer fluid I get in Florida freezes every time I go north in the winter. The stuff I get in Ohio never freezes. I've learned to carry some of the good stuff with me. My brother has the same issues when he comes up from New Orleans.

[aeblank]

Originally Posted by FrankG

The washer fluid I get in Florida freezes every time I go north in the winter.

I'd have to look at the label, but it's probably just blue water. [emoji6]

[jeff64]

being a winter fisherman, moving waters don't freeze quickly. How cold does it get before you see the rivers freeze up? God awful cold for days. The valve part, maybe. Contents, maybe not JMHO

[RacerRalph]

When I'm traveling in freezing weather i'm winterized and flush with thinned out auto antifreeze.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by ralphbeacham

When I'm traveling in freezing weather i'm winterized and flush with thinned out auto antifreeze.

Don't let your local sewer utility find that out. Or any of your environmentalist neighbors.

[RacerRalph]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Don't let your local sewer utility find that out. Or any of your environmentalist neighbors.

I use the "environmentally friendly" stuff.