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Old 06-01-2016, 03:06 PM   #11
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Probably due to the location of the refrigerator, but I never could get mine to stay lit on propane when driving. I'd try that and see if it works. Cools better anyway.

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Old 06-01-2016, 03:06 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Canadiancrew View Post
As stated you can check it with a meter. One of my past Gmc's was not wired but my current Ford is and will charge.

But why not run it on propane we did when we had a 3 way in the past. I didn't like the possibility of forgetting to switch over etc. And with such a heavy draw if anything went wrong it would leave you stranded. Maybe I am paranoid but I felt better running on propane.
The 7-point connection 12v power from the truck will shut off (or should) when the truck is turned off.

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Old 06-01-2016, 03:09 PM   #13
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My first trailer was a pop up with a 3 way frig. I tried to run on propane, but the pilot light kept being blown out when it was towed, so I had to run on 12 volt. My tv was just keeping enough power to keep things cool, but as soon as I stopped, the trailer battery was so low, the propane monitor was sounding. Also always switched to propane when we stopped.
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Old 06-01-2016, 03:33 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Brother Les View Post
The 7-point connection 12v power from the truck will shut off (or should) when the truck is turned off.
Most GMC products I have encountered do not disconnect on engine shutdown.
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:00 PM   #15
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Most PUP fridges draw 5-6 amps on 12V DC. The 12V heating coil is typically 60-70 watts fixed with no control. The 120V AC heating coil is 90-120 watts, often with a SCR (household lighting dimmer) control on it.

Because PUP fridges are manual light, continuous run on propane, there is no way for the fridge to relight if the flame gets blown out when towing. And the access door/intake and exhaust vents being large and located close together on the side of the PUP makes flame-outs more likely.

So I always put my fridge in DC mode while towing. The only real issue is whether or not your tow vehicle wiring harness is large enough gauge wire to support both the running lights and the fridge at the same time without much of a voltage drop.

I detailed how to check the camper battery voltage under load to determine whether or not the wiring supports keeping the camper battery charged, the running lights lit, and the fridge on in 12V mode in your thread under pop-up campers.

I don't disconnect the tow vehicle while on the road unless the stop is more than an hour (keep the fridge going on 12V). And I've never had a problem starting.

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