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Old 09-22-2015, 02:34 PM   #11
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You all really got me confused (not hard to do) I always thought the TV alternator always charged the trailers battery directly, not through the converter.......... My other trailers (Not RVs do not have converters) the batterys' (one has two) are charged through the TV (truck).

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Old 09-22-2015, 02:37 PM   #12
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Follow the cable from the plug on the trailer that connects to the tv, it goes under the trailer to a junction box where it distributed to the various places it needs to go including the battery for charging.
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:52 PM   #13
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Okay, what I just read you have a 55 amp DC charger that runs off a 30 amp a/c circuit. I think your confusing the A/C amp side with the D/C side.
In their question section they state that the max charging rate is 55 amps for this converter. What is confusing me is that on the wire coming from the converter to the batteries is a 30 amp fuse.

That fuse would pop like a dead short if hit with 55 amps, right? So yes, I am confused just not with the AC / DC sides. I know the AC is 30 amps and it is protected with a 30 amp breaker. Also there are fuses to protect the converter in case of reverse polarity. These are both 30 amp fuses.

From their web site:

"Provided there are no other 12-volt systems operating and if the battery is discharged enough, the maximum rate the converter will recharge the batteries is the maximum amount of amps created by the converter. The last two digits of the part number indicate its maximum current capability in amps." My converter is a 7155, so capable of a 55 amp charge? But what about the 30 fuses?

So what am I missing?
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:06 PM   #14
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OK the TV directly charges the battery of the RV when the TV is running. On my F350 the charge lead is feed from a 30 amp fuse through a relay that breaks the connection when the TV is shut off. The wire from the TV fuse and relay is 12 gauge. The charge lead connects to your 7 pin connector and therefore to your RV. The TV will only charge the RV battery and the converter has nothing to do with this.
I haven't really looked at my truck but do have a 30 amp marked trailer plug. I am sure that is the 12+ lead used for the charging circuit on the trailer.

Jim
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:09 PM   #15
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It's called marketing!

Even though the converter may be capable of producing 55 amps at 12VDC, there's no way it's ever going to get there. The internal resistance of the battery coupled with the circuit/wire resistance will reduce the maximum charging current to less than 30 amps.

If you turned every 12V light and appliance in the RV on at the same time, the converter may in fact produce the 55 amps it's designed for, it can never all be used for charging the battery. And you actually don't want it to charge the battery that fast. 10 amps is about as much current as you want for charging on a regular basis.
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Oaklevel View Post
You all really got me confused (not hard to do) I always thought the TV alternator always charged the trailers battery directly, not through the converter.......... My other trailers (Not RVs do not have converters) the batterys' (one has two) are charged through the TV (truck).

You are not confused. By charging the battery it is indirectly running all 12 volt circuits in the converter. The converter only charges the batteries on shorepower or generator.

Jim
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:16 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by DDC View Post
Follow the cable from the plug on the trailer that connects to the tv, it goes under the trailer to a junction box where it distributed to the various places it needs to go including the battery for charging.
You are probably right. I am just not willing to tear the underbelly apart to find out for sure, LOL!

If I had a problem then it would be a different story.

Jim
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:21 PM   #18
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It's called marketing!

Even though the converter may be capable of producing 55 amps at 12VDC, there's no way it's ever going to get there. The internal resistance of the battery coupled with the circuit/wire resistance will reduce the maximum charging current to less than 30 amps.

If you turned every 12V light and appliance in the RV on at the same time, the converter may in fact produce the 55 amps it's designed for, it can never all be used for charging the battery. And you actually don't want it to charge the battery that fast. 10 amps is about as much current as you want for charging on a regular basis.
I would guess you are right. It just gets me they tell you one thing but do something else!

I also agree, a slow charge is always better. 30 amps is a little gh unless you are in a hurry for some reason.

Jim
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:21 PM   #19
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The +12V aux pin in the 7 pin Bargman connector does not go thru the converter. You need to check to insure that the fuse and relay ( if used) are installed in the fuse block of the TV. For some reason even a 3/4 truck with a tow package may not have the +12V fuse installed. I have seen them totally not supplied or in a small plastic bag in the glove box. Keep in mind that the length of the wire and the gauge will not provide enough voltage to the battery to do much more than a low level charge. If you have something running on 12V during travel, you may not get any charging.
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:37 PM   #20
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Most TVs will have an 'engine-running' relay on the +12 (probably a solid-state e.g. thyristor one, thus the .7 volt drop due to the semiconductor barrier voltage) so that you can't kill your TV battery by leaving it sit with a trailer with a bad battery plugged in. Mine does... no +12 at the connector until the engine is on.
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