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Old 09-22-2015, 05:05 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
In their question section they state that the max charging rate is 55 amps for this converter. What is confusing me is that on the wire coming from the converter to the batteries is a 30 amp fuse.

That fuse would pop like a dead short if hit with 55 amps, right? So yes, I am confused just not with the AC / DC sides. I know the AC is 30 amps and it is protected with a 30 amp breaker. Also there are fuses to protect the converter in case of reverse polarity. These are both 30 amp fuses.

From their web site:

"Provided there are no other 12-volt systems operating and if the battery is discharged enough, the maximum rate the converter will recharge the batteries is the maximum amount of amps created by the converter. The last two digits of the part number indicate its maximum current capability in amps." My converter is a 7155, so capable of a 55 amp charge? But what about the 30 fuses?

So what am I missing?
The 30 amp fuses protect the converter from revised polarity only. This is my understanding. I have a 55 amp charger with 2 40 amp fuse not 30 amp. It has nothing to do with limiting the charge. My system is still 30 amp A/C with a breaker for the panel. The max DC amps that my converter can produce is still 55 amps DC as yours is. When you are plugged in your converter will supply your 12 v board with the amount needed to run what the demand is and the rest go to the battery until the battery is full and then will drop down the amps supplied. But you are still running off the battery. I'll attach if I can how to test it.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:24 PM   #22
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Old Tool. To get 55 amps to the battery you would need minimum 6 AWG wire, possibly a 4 AWG wire due to resistance in the wire at the length the battery is away from the convertor. I highly doubt there is a battery cable or welding cable from your convertor to the battery.Most likely a 10 AWG which would limit charging current due to its resistance to electric flow.
I might be mistaken but I believe the 12 v charge line in my trailer goes right to the battery from the 4 inch square junction box by the inbox. This same lead provides 12 v from the battery for the breakaway switch.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:37 PM   #23
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Old tool this will explain what your 30 amp fuse will only do.
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Old 09-22-2015, 07:15 PM   #24
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Just not enough confusion on this thread yet.

My donation:





A self resetting circuit breaker under the front of my camper. 3 Red wires. Maybe 1 feed and 2 loads?

Maybe for the circuit from the 7 pin plug to the TV?

Maybe for the Z AMP solar input tap?

I have not followed the wiring so I do not know for sure.



Just to stir the pot a bit more, 3 shots of places where wiring just lays on top of frame members:









I wonder how many miles it would take for the insulation to chafe through and cause a short circuit?

Note the blue wire in pix 2 and 3? That's for the trailer electric brake circuit.

That's a recall waiting to happen.

My solution? A few feet of poly hose from Lowe's as a protective cover.



Y'all might want to check your rig out when you have time.


Oh, one last interesting find. The negative side of the battery (white wire) is grounded to the frame by only one wire attached by only one screw. No redundant connection. If that goes, the whole 12 volt system - including exterior lights and trailer brakes - loose power.

10 minutes and 3 feet of #10 wire will fix it.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:59 AM   #25
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Now you're gonna make me crawl under mine and fix all that stuff. I already plan on moving the multifunction receiver so I guess I'll fix all that while I'm under there.

I got a bunch of corrugated split wire loom so I guess I'll be using a bunch of it.
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:32 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluepill View Post
Just not enough confusion on this thread yet.

My donation:





A self resetting circuit breaker under the front of my camper. 3 Red wires. Maybe 1 feed and 2 loads?

Maybe for the circuit from the 7 pin plug to the TV?

Maybe for the Z AMP solar input tap?

I have not followed the wiring so I do not know for sure.



Just to stir the pot a bit more, 3 shots of places where wiring just lays on top of frame members:









I wonder how many miles it would take for the insulation to chafe through and cause a short circuit?

Note the blue wire in pix 2 and 3? That's for the trailer electric brake circuit.

That's a recall waiting to happen.

My solution? A few feet of poly hose from Lowe's as a protective cover.



Y'all might want to check your rig out when you have time.


Oh, one last interesting find. The negative side of the battery (white wire) is grounded to the frame by only one wire attached by only one screw. No redundant connection. If that goes, the whole 12 volt system - including exterior lights and trailer brakes - loose power.

10 minutes and 3 feet of #10 wire will fix it.
I'm sure you know your cross membrane is also cracked, not sure where it comes from or ties into I think it's in the second or third picture. It has a jagged edge so it looks cracked maybe not.
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:33 PM   #27
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Good eye. On my to-do list is a full inspection of all welds, The rust that you see is from sitting in dealer inventory for 9 months, not from any road use. Many points need to be media blasted and then properly primed and painted.

Another disappointment with FR build quality.
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:13 PM   #28
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Good eye. On my to-do list is a full inspection of all welds, The rust that you see is from sitting in dealer inventory for 9 months, not from any road use. Many points need to be media blasted and then properly primed and painted.

Another disappointment with FR build quality.
My axles and 1/2" galv. or black LPG pipe was rusted after my first year I have never had the unit in any snow or salt. I found this spray can't remember the name but you just spray it on. The rust will turn gray and then it's ready to paint no brushing or scraping. Held up so far 2 years later, I'm always checking for rust and welds. found it on the internet looking fora rust removal.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:00 PM   #29
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Interesting note: I bought a new 2015 GMC 1500 last November. I also have an 18 foot cargo trailer with electric tongue jack. The battery in the cargo trailer is charged by the truck's 12vDC+ at the 7- pole connected. When attempting to use the tongue jack I found the battery dead-highly unusual. I found the 12vDC pole on the 7- pole connected dead. A blown fuse under the hood. Dealer did not have any of these new style "mini-mini" fuses and stated they could not get any. Reason-too many 2015 trucks blowing this fuse. Dealer tells me that an electric tongue jack pulls too many amps for this 12vDC line. No auto parts store in town carry's this 30 amp fuse although they have requests for them. Two phone calls to GMC and they sent me to another dealer 30 miles away where they had figured out the problem:A bad Trailer Control Module or TCM. Once it was replaced all has been well.
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Old 09-24-2015, 01:37 PM   #30
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I don't know if these ever became less confusing the OP (original poster).

Your trailer battery is being charged by your Tow Vehicle through a pin on the seven pin connector. The wire on the TV side comes from the alternator, perhaps through a fuse in the TV distribution block. The wire gauge is probably not sufficient to charge the battery in an effective manner. It will charge it but it will take a loooooooong time as the voltage that reaches the battery is never high enough to charge it quickly.

Note that the converter inside your rig has nothing to do with charging your battery while you are moving.

When you get to the campground and plug your rig into 110V power then the converter provides power to a 12V transformer plugged into the back of the WFCO converter. That transformer provides all the 12V power required to run the stuff in your rig when you are plugged in. It also charges the battery. As someone else suggested the wire gauge is probably not sufficient to do a very good job of that either. In some cases, the charging circuit of the converter does have a decent program to charge the battery. That means it steps through a tiered charging sequence of voltages to get the battery to full. If you want a great, but lengthy, description of battery charging check out HandyBob here:

https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/

Here's the thing: the converter charging is not all that great. If you are plugged into 110V AC most of the time you will never notice it. If though, you rely on this charging and the TV charging between long periods of boondocking you will notice that your batteries do not seem to hold a charge and you would be correct: they don't.

The answer is a better charging method. Solar fits the bill very well. You could change the alternator and wiring in your TV to get more power back there but that's hard.

Hope this helps. Beyond HandyBob's stuff you can look at mine as well at the URL below.

Thanks,
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