Trickle charger setup with zamp port

[karlrmac]

So I’ve done it, created a setup for my battery to charge while it’s out at the storage yard. At least I hope I’ve done it correctly. I’ve included pictures and some commentary below. Please let me know what you think and I’m hoping it’s setup correctly so others something to copy.

I ordered from amazon, a 20 watt panel and the 20 amp solar controller. I checked the polarity of my zamp plug and attached it so that my hot is the red wire you see.

I tested and it showed a reading when the switch was off or on. I have it off now so there is no drain from stuff in the trailer. Do you think it will be okay to keep it on and the battery still be trickle charged and not drain? I’m talking about just the radio in standby and the alarms (co2 and Fire I think.

Also I have the settings attached because I want to know if anyone else has changed them to something different. I have a standard 12 volt battery, think they maybe called wet it a 601 type????

Thanks

Karl

[SeaDog]

Looks like you got it figured out my only comment is it (the panel) may not be there long mounted where you have it if left at a storage place. JMHO

[5picker]

Great job.
Hope your storage facility is safe.
That's an easy target.

[karlrmac]

Thanks guys. I think we’re good as we’ve had a trailer there for 5 years with no issues, but you never know. I am going to make it a little more secure, just trying to design something that will be more permanent but movable.

[nayther]

I don't think that controller is rated for outdoor installation (not waterproof) so you might want to move it inside or cover it; it's fine sitting still but down the road it will get wet.

[karlrmac]

Originally Posted by nayther

I don't think that controller is rated for outdoor installation (not waterproof) so you might want to move it inside or cover it; it's fine sitting still but down the road it will get wet.

Thanks. I put it on with ties until I did some more digging on its waterproofing. I saw somewhere it was not after proof last night. Maybe inside the LP tank cover?

[5picker]

Originally Posted by karlrmac

Thanks. I put it on with ties until I did some more digging on its waterproofing. I saw somewhere it was not after proof last night. Maybe inside the LP tank cover?

Put it inside one of these food containers and seal the wire holes. (out the bottom)
Water proof, airtight and cheap...

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by karlrmac

I tested and it showed a reading when the switch was off or on. I have it off now so there is no drain from stuff in the trailer. Do you think it will be okay to keep it on and the battery still be trickle charged and not drain? I’m talking about just the radio in standby and the alarms (co2 and Fire I think.

Karl, this is fairly easy to check.

On a sunny day, proceed as follows:

• Take your multimeter and set it to the 10A scale.
• Plug the leads into 10A and COMmon.
• Disconnect one lead (either one)between the solar controller and battery.
• Insert the multimeter leads into the circuit (one lead to solar controller, one to the battery. Read the current provided by the solar controller. If it is lower than 1 amp, then move the test lead from 10A to V-ohms-A and change the meter to the 1000 mA (1A) scale. In either case, record the current provided by solar controller.
• Now disconnect one of the battery cables (either one).
• Set the meter and leads back to 10A and record the current drawn by the radio and alarms. Move the test lead and scale to 1000 mA if appropriate.
• Now assume that you only get 4 hours of direct sunlight a day. But the radio and alarms draw current 24 hours a day. So the current provided by the controller should be at least six times greater than that drawn by the radio and alarms.

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by karlrmac

Thanks guys. I think we’re good as we’ve had a trailer there for 5 years with no issues, but you never know. I am going to make it a little more secure, just trying to design something that will be more permanent but movable.

Great looking system. I need to do the same. I took a little too long to get over and recharge and the batteries are now dead.

Are their any experts out there that know how bad it is on lead-acid batteries to let them run down for a week or so?

[Villagerjjm]

I use two terminal clips attached to the battery terminals. I leave the switch for the battery to supply power to the trailer in the off position. I will still go to check fluid levels in the battery every two weeks and use a hygrometer to check charge levels

[nayther]

Originally Posted by hikerjohn7

Great looking system. I need to do the same. I took a little too long to get over and recharge and the batteries are now dead.

Are their any experts out there that know how bad it is on lead-acid batteries to let them run down for a week or so?

Pretty bad, don't know if its quantifiable or not though. I'd try a recondition cycle if you have a charger with one. It's supposed to knock the "scale" off the plates by reversing polarity for an instant. At least that's my understanding, perhaps someone else knows more about it

[karlrmac]

Originally Posted by hikerjohn7

Great looking system. I need to do the same. I took a little too long to get over and recharge and the batteries are now dead.



Are their any experts out there that know how bad it is on lead-acid batteries to let them run down for a week or so?

Thanks. I did lots of reading I there forums and across the ‘net. My next step is follow the advice to see if it would be okay to keep all kill switch on and still have power in the battery. Here in east texas we get lots of sun, so that shouldn’t be the issue

[karlrmac]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Put it inside one of these food containers and seal the wire holes. (out the bottom)

Water proof, airtight and cheap...

Thanks, can’t beat the price on this one!

[karlrmac]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

Karl, this is fairly easy to check.



On a sunny day, proceed as follows:

• Take your multimeter and set it to the 10A scale.
  
• Plug the leads into 10A and COMmon.
  
• Disconnect one lead (either one)between the solar controller and battery.
  
• Insert the multimeter leads into the circuit (one lead to solar controller, one to the battery. Read the current provided by the solar controller. If it is lower than 1 amp, then move the test lead from 10A to V-ohms-A and change the meter to the 1000 mA (1A) scale. In either case, record the current provided by solar controller.
  
• Now disconnect one of the battery cables (either one).
  
• Set the meter and leads back to 10A and record the current drawn by the radio and alarms. Move the test lead and scale to 1000 mA if appropriate.
  
• Now assume that you only get 4 hours of direct sunlight a day. But the radio and alarms draw current 24 hours a day. So the current provided by the controller should be at least six times greater than that drawn by the radio and alarms.
  

Appreciate the step by step. I’ll give it a test here in the next few weeks. Thanks again.

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by nayther

Pretty bad, don't know if its quantifiable or not though. I'd try a recondition cycle if you have a charger with one. It's supposed to knock the "scale" off the plates by reversing polarity for an instant. At least that's my understanding, perhaps someone else knows more about it

I expressed my anger with the dealer's service department for allowing my batteries to run down and they agreed to load test them and sounded as if they may be willing to replace them if the test failed.

I have been to two different dealer service departments in South Florida lately and it's getting really hard to get good, reliable service. And this area is one of the RV centers of the nation. I wonder what's causing the deterioration in their quality. They seem to have plenty of business and should be making money. But then, maybe RV repair is not a very profitable industry since they seem to have a big turnover in staff.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by hikerjohn7

I have been to two different dealer service departments in South Florida lately and it's getting really hard to get good, reliable service. And this area is one of the RV centers of the nation. I wonder what's causing the deterioration in their quality. They seem to have plenty of business and should be making money. But then, maybe RV repair is not a very profitable industry since they seem to have a big turnover in staff.

How are the "technicians" paid? If they are paid "flat rate" (time for each job is from a book/web page), they will work as fast (and sloppy) as they can to get as many jobs "done" as they can. If they are paid hourly, they could be more careful, but might really sock it to the customer by paying overly zealous painstaking attention on each job.

Where are the "technicians" hired from? High school? Vo-tech community college?

What credentials do they have? Automotive techs can have up to eight different certifications from ASE and shops often boast of this. What about RV techs?

[hikerjohn7]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

How are the "technicians" paid? If they are paid "flat rate" (time for each job is from a book/web page), they will work as fast (and sloppy) as they can to get as many jobs "done" as they can. If they are paid hourly, they could be more careful, but might really sock it to the customer by paying overly zealous painstaking attention on each job.

Where are the "technicians" hired from? High school? Vo-tech community college?

What credentials do they have? Automotive techs can have up to eight different certifications from ASE and shops often boast of this. What about RV techs?

Those are all good questions that I can't answer. Since the turnover is so great (techs and even service managers don't stay very long at dealers in South Florida), I doubt they can be certified. The RV dealers have a long way to go to reach the quality of service departments in auto dealerships.

Another thing I have observed is that RV service departments oscillate from having lots of techs in their shops to just skeleton crews. I guess it's the nature of the RV industry which seems to oscillate from boom to bust also.

I am considering looking into finding some good independent, mobile techs to start fixing stuff on my RV. At least you can be their while they are working on your rig.