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Old 02-28-2016, 04:48 PM   #131
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I got a call from Batteries Plus (as expected) to tell me they didn't have the batteries in stock. But, they had an order into "East Penn" and they should be getting them in stock around the middle of this week.
Great, I think we'll be happy with these batteries. Very well made and the huge capacity is really evident when you start topping them off. I'm anxious to get them in the box and do some testing with the converter.

Oh, when you pick them up, be sure and get the little $5 handling strap to carry them with.
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Old 02-28-2016, 05:42 PM   #132
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I'd say anything is going to be better than my old 85ah marine battery.

And thanks for the tip on the handle. They had it there at the store?
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Old 02-28-2016, 11:24 PM   #133
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Yes, it's just a little strap with two hooks that lets you grab the built in slots on the battery. They'll have it, in fact i would bet that what they bring the batteries out with. That's how I found out about it.
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Old 02-29-2016, 01:50 AM   #134
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Interesting topic and now I'm probably more confused than when I started reading. So my plan of removing my batteries, storing my RV 100 miles away (no shore power available) taking my batteries home and slow charging them after a weekend of boondocking is not the best idea.
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:06 AM   #135
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Can you use a portable charger hooked right to the batteries with the batteries still hooked to the RV? If not, will the factory disconnect be enough to disconnect from the converter or would I need to install another disconnect up near the batteries?
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:41 AM   #136
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Interesting topic and now I'm probably more confused than when I started reading. So my plan of removing my batteries, storing my RV 100 miles away (no shore power available) taking my batteries home and slow charging them after a weekend of boondocking is not the best idea.
All of the traffic on this topic is the main reason that I am installing 150 to 300 watts of solar on my coach. Not for boondocking but for maintaining my batteries when disconnected from shore power. Don't care if they get to 100% in one day or a week. They will get there and continually maintained without any 110 volt shore connection.
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Old 02-29-2016, 09:09 AM   #137
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Interesting topic and now I'm probably more confused than when I started reading. So my plan of removing my batteries, storing my RV 100 miles away (no shore power available) taking my batteries home and slow charging them after a weekend of boondocking is not the best idea.
If that is your plan then don't let anything here stop you, IMO.

If your batteries are deeply discharged and you bring them home and put them on a 4 stage battery minder, you will have fully charged batteries when you go out again. While you won't get all the "possible" useful life out of them this way, you will most likely get what you need out of them.

Consider it part of the cost of camping; like buying gas and tires. The batteries "are consumed" and the cost amortized over the life you do get out of them before they need to be replaced.

This is what I use for my HAM radio backup battery.
BatteryMINDer Charger/Maintainer/Desulfater - 12V, Model# 2012
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Old 02-29-2016, 04:10 PM   #138
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I've been reading up on 6v golf cart batteries and just purchased two Duracell 230 amp/hr batteries. After topping them off and letting them rest overnight, I measured 6.45 v each 1260-1265 (hard to read) SG @ 68 deg F. this seemed a little low to me since I figured 1275 is full charge. Both batteries have identical SG in every cell and volts are both exactly the same so I think this is just a characteristic of the battery.

But then, I was reading on the Trojan site in which they stated all their batteries made before 2012 were fully charged at 1260 SG. They also stated that the lower SG on the pre 2012 batteries did not reduce there performance, amp/hrs etc... After that they made a change that the newer Trojans top off at 1278 SG. But they claim both batteries have the same capacity, life etc........... So I have more to learn about SG.

So I'm wondering, what controls the initial SG and does it matter where OEM sets the SG as fully charged.?
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Old 02-29-2016, 09:44 PM   #139
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Interesting topic and now I'm probably more confused than when I started reading. So my plan of removing my batteries, storing my RV 100 miles away (no shore power available) taking my batteries home and slow charging them after a weekend of boondocking is not the best idea.
Why not? You'll be bringing two batteries home instead of one. Bring them home, connect the positive of one to the negative of the other, then connect your battery charger as you would a 12V battery.
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Old 03-01-2016, 10:12 AM   #140
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I've been reading up on 6v golf cart batteries and just purchased two Duracell 230 amp/hr batteries. After topping them off and letting them rest overnight, I measured 6.45 v each 1260-1265 (hard to read) SG @ 68 deg F. this seemed a little low to me since I figured 1275 is full charge. Both batteries have identical SG in every cell and volts are both exactly the same so I think this is just a characteristic of the battery.

But then, I was reading on the Trojan site in which they stated all their batteries made before 2012 were fully charged at 1260 SG. They also stated that the lower SG on the pre 2012 batteries did not reduce there performance, amp/hrs etc... After that they made a change that the newer Trojans top off at 1278 SG. But they claim both batteries have the same capacity, life etc........... So I have more to learn about SG.

So I'm wondering, what controls the initial SG and does it matter where OEM sets the SG as fully charged.?
Hey TooTall, that is the dumbest most ignorant question I've ever seen on this board, but I'll answer it for you. Specific Gravity is determined by the amount of electrolyte in the battery. Period.

No regarding your Duracells, they are made by a company called East Penn who makes Deka batteries a well known and respected brand. I supspect your Duracells are really Deka's.

Regarding, measuring SG with a hydrometer. Make sure the hydrometer is dry above the float level as the friction of the fluid will prevent the float from rising to it's true float position and will give low reading. Once I cleaned my hydrometer, I'm now seeing SG like 1275 to 80. So dry out your hydrometer, dumb A__.
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