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Old 03-12-2014, 11:15 AM   #21
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Battery protection fuses?
They are in place incase the cables are hooked incorrectly.

Some times the converter distribution center face needs to come off before they can be accessed.


No 12v with shore power means only two things.

Polarity fuses blown.
Converter is not working.

If it has a battery disconnect the converter WILL still work.

If an inline fuse from battery is blown the converter WILL still work.

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Old 03-12-2014, 11:18 AM   #22
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That's what I was trying not to do this week my dealer is a hour away . . .
Our dealer was a hundred mile two hour drive. When the microwave went dead they said bring it in for an inspection. Took them two minutes to confirm it wouldn't work and it was plugged in; then they said it would be ordered and reinstalled at their shop.

Lets see - 4 hr drive and 200 miles/10 MPGx$4.00 = $80 each trip for a $65 microwave.

They insisted that we bring the rig back to replace the microwave until I asked to talk to the owner. They wouldn't ship it to me but would let me pick it up in a car.

That was the only thing that went bad in the first 12 months - after that is a different story.

.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:20 AM   #23
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TT battery help. Please

Is the converter plugged in.
If it is check the outlet it is plugged into for power.
The battery should be charging at 13.6 volts.
Check that the 12 volt wires are connected to the converter.
Check the 12 volt output of the converter (it should be about 13.6 volts)
If all checks out you may have a defective converter.
There may be a fuse in the converter.
Other than that here isn't much left.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:21 AM   #24
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Ok. When you can, let's check the connections to the battery, check the ground connection to the frame, and look for an inline fuse from the battery.

Last nite I crawled under and checked I found one lose wire I but a new connector on and nothing changed there were no extra wire. All I saw were 2 grey what I think are so kind of breaker there was no reset or switch on are near them. I will look again the only fuse I saw was 1 to the elec. tongue jack.
Thanks
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:03 PM   #25
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Open and close your converter AC breaker to make sure it is reset properly....
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:58 PM   #26
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The four fuses to the left inside the cutout are the converter protection fuses.
Some times that cutout is "not cutout" therfore the front panel must be removed to access them.

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Old 03-12-2014, 01:09 PM   #27
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That's what I was trying not to do this week my dealer is a hour away and I am working all week and have reservations at the lake this weekend for 3 days it is my first trip not out to a good start. Is there a way to bypass it for the weekend?
Not to understate your issues.......but, your comment gives me a laugh today. You're scrambling to get the trailer working for a weekend reservation and in Ontario, I'm looking out the window at a raging blizzard


I hope everything works out for you!
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:40 PM   #28
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Quote:
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I could not find any cutoff switch I also checked in the manual and see no mention of it.
your manual would not mention whether you had one or not.
PLEASE remember that the manual is GENERIC and has nothing that is specific to your model, brand or even type of RV.
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Old 03-12-2014, 01:43 PM   #29
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A new FR trailer without a battery disconnect.....seems odd. Mine is a push/pull switch located right beside the charger.
battery disconnect switches are still not that common in the FR lines.
only a few brands provide them, at this time. it does vary between brands and sometimes between models.
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Old 03-12-2014, 02:36 PM   #30
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The dealer finally called back and had me run some test and said it was a bad converter. I got to take it in for service he just said to run my charger for the weekend to get by.

Thank you to all for your help
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