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Old 04-01-2016, 11:47 AM   #21
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I worked with 12 phase systems. That is confusing! Used to generate high voltage 30 kVDC for Television Transmitters. By having all those phases making smooth filtered DC required smaller capacitors and chokes.
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:48 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
First of all, the power pedestal in an RV park (and your house) is always single phase.
I agree with everything you wrote - except the above sentence...

It should be "ALMOST" always single phase... NYC, in a holdover from the Edison/Westinghouse power-war days, actually does deliver 2 phases; and you get 208v hot to hot; 120 hot to neutral.

Otherwise - I think you did a great job explaining the situation!

OP - there are inverters that can be paralleled - but to deliver 50A at 240v, you're looking at 12 kw - assuming a typical 90-ish percent efficient inverter, you're looking at a little over a 1100A as 12vdc... That's not a practical load to try and support. Even at 1/2 load (25A @ 240v) - that's still 550A at 12v.

You'd be better off with a generator, or a pair of paralleled generators (that are purpose built for it, and can cross reference each other's voltages).

Just tying the neutrals of two stand-alone generators together, then letting the hot legs float, can cause all kinds of strange issues...
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:52 AM   #23
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Ok my question is that if you measure access L1- L2 with volt meter would i get 0,120,240? Im thinking im getting 0 with this set up . I have a 30 amp set up at this time but trying to get my head around 50 service for the future. Sorry for the mental block
In a split phase 50 amp system you should always get 240, or something like that between L1 and L2.Then 120 between L1 and neutral and L1 and ground...for L2 as well, and pretty much nothing between neutral and ground (it depends on everybody else who is hooked up if you are at an RV park.) In a 30 amp system, there is no L2.

Most important is 240 between L1 and L2.
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Old 04-01-2016, 11:56 AM   #24
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Ok my question is that if you measure access L1- L2 with volt meter would i get 0,120,240? Im thinking im getting 0 with this set up . I have a 30 amp set up at this time but trying to get my head around 50 service for the future. Sorry for the mental block
In a properly wired 50 amp service you will get 240 volts measuring across L1 & L2.

Feeding a 50 amp service with a 30 amp dog bone adapter you will get 0 volts across L1 & L2.
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Old 04-01-2016, 12:57 PM   #25
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Great discussion guys. But did you notice the OP never came back? I'm sure that folks got a lot of education on the subject, thus it was mucho good!
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Old 04-01-2016, 02:38 PM   #26
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5picker thanks understand now.
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Old 04-01-2016, 08:24 PM   #27
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Great discussion guys. But did you notice the OP never came back? I'm sure that folks got a lot of education on the subject, thus it was mucho good!
I sincerely hope he got his answer.

I know I learned a lot from the continued discussion of this topic.
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Old 04-06-2016, 10:05 PM   #28
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Great discussion guys. But did you notice the OP never came back? I'm sure that folks got a lot of education on the subject, thus it was mucho good!

OK...I'm back again, and I did (briefly) read all the stuff. Basically, this is an eye opener as I always believed the 50 amp service was 240 volt multiple phase. However, the diagram definitely explains why my 30 amp gas generator, with a 30 amp to 50amp adapter (dog bone) makes my 50 amp camper work.
At any rate. Because I was under the impression I needed two 120 volt legs phased to run a 14-50R receptacle, and I never found a single inverter which has two separate legs, my thinking was to run two inverters, one inverter per leg. I now know this will not work. However, I have had a solar engineer say it can work if the two inverters are run 180 degrees out of phase? Which makes my head hurt trying to figure that one out.
At any rate, my 6000 watt gas generator has the 30amp to 50 amp adapter, which works the camper with out problems. what really is odd, is last weekend, I actually turned both AC's on at the same time, and they both worked! Again, my head is hurting trying to figure out how that happened with out shutting anything down.
So, my thinking now, is I only need one inverter, and with the wiring modification, I can make the necessary adapter to plug into my camper. With 30 amps, I can certainly run one AC, (which is all I need anyway). When I turn the generator on, the transfer switch takes over, and I can follow my Happy Path...
Thanks for the help
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:47 PM   #29
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OK, I’m back again, and again, with a question. First off, I understand the discussion and the areas of 120V measured from one line to neutral, and 240v measured from both hot leads. And I even understand the theory of one line where the electron flow in one direction and the other line with electron flow in the opposite direction, and how they approach zero as they move to the neutral…I think.
Here’s what I’m not following: In the schematic on the first page, where the dog-bone adapter has a jumper from line 2 to line 1, I’m seeing no power to line 2.
If Line 2 has no power (because of the adapter jumper) then how does anything work which utilizes Line 2?
Or, is this the area where the voltage “gets” to line 2 over the neutral as the current moves back-and-fourth as discussed?
Or, is line 2 only used for the second AC only…which doesn’t make sense, as both my AC’s are working with the dog-bone adapter.
Also, on my Generator, the outlet for the dog-bone is a 4 wire 14-50R receptacle, and the decal states 120/240 volt outlet.
Thanks for the help
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Old 04-12-2016, 10:14 PM   #30
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I'm still at a loss as to what you are trying to do with the inverter(s) (an inverter changes 12v dc to 120ac).


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