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Old 04-14-2016, 09:39 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Bluepill View Post

RE: AMPS/WATTS available. From Honda.

Voltage Selector Switch
The voltage selector switch gives you more usable power from the 120V outlets and added flexibility. It allows you to choose between using both 120 and 240 Volts, or 120 Volts only.
Selecting 120V only allows for the total generator output to be available through any of the 120 volt outlets. This enables you to power units with larger wattage requirements.
Whatís the difference between 120V/240V and 120V only?
On a typical 120V / 240V generator, each of the 120V outlets gets only half of the generatorís capacity. For a 5000W generator, that would be only 2500W at any given 120V outlet. The full 5000W is only available at the 240V outlet. This limits the amount of 120V power you can use.
But with a Honda voltage selector switch, you can essentially turn off the 240V outlet. This means the full 5000 watts are available from the 120 V outlets, limited only by the capacity of the individual outlet.

The voltage selector switch is an excellent idea from Honda. The generator I'm currently using is a Westinghouse 6500 watt generator, which I do not believe I have a voltage selector switch on this particular generator. I believe I would need to modify my generator beginning at the stator's. My plan will eventually go to a Propane generator running off a 500 gallon propane tank. I'm currently looking at a large Honda generator for this application when I make that change. I'll look deeper into the Honda I have my eye on to see if it incorporates this functionality.
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:43 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
The phase issue on a 50 amp RV plug is commonly misunderstood. It is all SINGLE phase.
Yes, they are on separate buses and SPLIT but not different phases.

If all you are trying to do is be able to operate things on both sides of your 50 amp service from an inverter, get an adapter that feeds 110v to both sides of your 50 amp plug. (See wiring in lower right of schematic)

Thanks for this schmatic! I've been puzzled over the 30 amp service, wondering if L2 was even used, and if so, what was lost when adding a 15 amp adapter. Now I know. The only thing lost is the amount of amperage available to each appliance although they are all still receving power. Thanks!
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Old 04-14-2016, 09:52 AM   #43
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op

You mention upgrading at some point. I would look at larger wire size to start with. If you plan on the large Honda you should use 4 AWG.

I would drop some conduit in the ground and pull individual conductors for this install. Also make sure you follow National Electrical Code as to grounding. Most likely need a couple of ground rods.
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Old 04-14-2016, 02:02 PM   #44
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So here's a question: Since 50 amp is basically two 30 amp circuits sort of side by side (sharing the neutral), why isn't it 60 amp service??
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Old 04-15-2016, 02:21 AM   #45
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So here's a question: Since 50 amp is basically two 30 amp circuits sort of side by side (sharing the neutral), why isn't it 60 amp service??
If you are talking about a true 120/240 volt split phase 50 amp service, like at a campground....it is actually TWO 50 amp legs, or 100 amps (12000 watts) total service.

It's called 50 amp service because each leg is only 50 amps and controlled by it's own 50 amp circuit breaker, that is a double pole breaker. If either leg consumes more than 50 amps, since the breakers are tied together at the handle, if one side trips, it trips the other side too, as this protects the common neutral. These links will better explain it and why load balancing comes into play. You could look at it as 100 amps X 120 volt, or 50 amps X 240 volts.

Electrical Tutorial - Chapter 3 - 30 Amp versus 50 Amp

AC Electricity

RV Electric (click the 50 amp service tab on left of page)
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Old 04-15-2016, 08:35 AM   #46
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Thanks. I think I knew that - once!
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Old 04-17-2016, 07:30 PM   #47
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Hello Everybody,
I was out at my camper over the weekend...with my multimeter, and here's what I found:

Measuring Volatage at the Generator Adapter end (where it plugs into the RV cable)
L1 → N = 123.5 Volts
L2 → N = 123.5 Volts
L1 → L2 = 246 volts

Approximately the same at end of 30’ RV cable, except a voltage drop of about 4 Volts when measured between L1 & L2 for the test of 240 Volts

So, it looks like the Camco (I think) adapter/dogbone does not have a jumper, but is merely an adapter to allow the campers 14-50 plug, to mate with the generator's L14-30 Receptacle.

So, I do believe I can make an extension cord, from where the generator is at the barn, with #6 (or maybe i'll go #4) 4 wire (2 hot's, 1 neutral and 1 ground) to an RV style box next to my camper, then simply plug my normal camper electric cable into the RV park style box.
Comments on this idea is very much welcome.
Thanks
Oh, I do know I'll only have 30 amps instead of 50 amps...but that will be enough.
Thanks
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Old 04-30-2016, 09:53 AM   #48
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Lets talk about this a minute more...
If I were to look at the AC circuit breaker panel of my RV, it should have two Lines and one Netural, with a ground for my split phase in. This would be unlike a house circuit breaker panel with two Lines and two Neutral's (with a jumper for the Neutral's, so I still have a split phase in the house) is this correct?
If so, my inverter/charger would need to be split phase in, and split phase out...correct?
The reason I ask, is the inverter I'm looking at has a spit phase In connection, but a dual phase Out connection (L1 & L2, N1 & N2) so I do not believe this Inverter / Charger will work. If I were to have a split phase out, which Neutral would I use?
We probably discussed this somewhere, but I cant find it, this thread is getting BIG

Thanks for the help
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Old 05-04-2016, 08:48 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by 2nd House View Post
Lets talk about this a minute more...
If I were to look at the AC circuit breaker panel of my RV, it should have two Lines and one Netural, with a ground for my split phase in. This would be unlike a house circuit breaker panel with two Lines and two Neutral's (with a jumper for the Neutral's, so I still have a split phase in the house) is this correct?
If so, my inverter/charger would need to be split phase in, and split phase out...correct?
The reason I ask, is the inverter I'm looking at has a spit phase In connection, but a dual phase Out connection (L1 & L2, N1 & N2) so I do not believe this Inverter / Charger will work. If I were to have a split phase out, which Neutral would I use?
We probably discussed this somewhere, but I cant find it, this thread is getting BIG

Thanks for the help
Wait a minute. First your house has one neutral and two 120 volt hot lines coming in (split phase.) The neutral is tied to a ground rod in the meter case and from then on you have L1, L2, N and G.

Now when you talk about an inverter it has DC in and AC out, split phase or not. I presume that you are talking about the charging section of an inverter/charger. It may have split phase in but then will have DC out. Same is true for the inverter section which has DC in and maybe split phase out, which is common in home solar systems that feed surplus power to the power lines.

You will need to take a closer look at the inverter spec, but I would bet that if it is split phase, both of the neutral lugs are connected together so that it would be compatible with a home system with "net" metering.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:38 PM   #50
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yep, I have taken a closer look at this particular Inverter, and it is not split phase out, which the shop selling it to me told me it was, and it would work, it is a dual out at best. to run split phase I would need two of these inverters. So, looks like the inverter shop was just trying to make a sale.
I'm back again looking for a true sine wave with split phase out. And, it's a good thing I did not purchase this particular inverter.
Thanks
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