Use the Solar on the Side connector or not?

[larry2c]

I have another thread going where I've said what I am thinking about doing in regards to a solar system for our TT. This question has to do with whether or not I should use the Solar on the Side connector provided by FR or just pull that out and get a new/better connector. Not sure if everyone's RV is the same in regards to being "pre-wired for solar" by FR but ours has the female receptacle in the front of the frame near the battery box. The wires on the backside appear to be 10GA but could be 12GA (no ID on the wire that I can see) and they just run about 18" where they are neatly bundled and zip tied to other power lines from the battery.

I've heard folks say that polarity of the connector can be an issue and with the wire gauge being smallish maybe just replacing this with proper connectors would be better.

Any thoughts/suggestion on this?

[MtBiker]

Much better to go straight to the battery if possible. If the connector and wiring are done like other items are wired you might have 20 feet of wire balled up inside a wall.

[Tx2Stepn]

I just have a small solar set up and have just recently put it together, but I used the provided plug in the trailer. I bought an adapter with the sae connection I needed on the trailer side to the mc4 plug for the solar panels. We checked the polarity and it was correct with this adapter in our trailer, but I would check it just to be sure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[PSU Turf]

How many watts of solar will you have? For 1 or 2 100 watt panels you are probably OK. Anything more definitely get bigger wire.

[larry2c]

Thanks all - 200W is my plan for now. Our TT is relatively small and as of now, we don't use an inverter - that may change in the future but it will be a lower output model.

Regarding extra wire in the walls from the FR solar prep pack - they didn't spend a dime more than they had to on these TT's so it's roughly 3' of wire - and I can see all of it.

[UT_Grandpa]

If you are running much more than a 10 Watt panel it is advised to place a solar controller between your panels and the trailer/battery.

I chose not to use the plug and wire it directly to my batteries. BTW the correct way to hookup two batteries in parallel is probably not what the dealer did. You should have the Positive - Load wire to the positive connector on battery "A" and the Negative/Load cable to the Negative terminal of battery "B". This keeps the wire length equal on both batteries.

Load + ==> ++ Battery "A"
| =============> ++ Battery "B"

Load - ==> -- Battery "B"
| ===============> -- Battery "A"

[douglas c box]

Does this decal indicate where you are to mount your solar controller? Is there wiring there to do so. I dont want to cut the panel there if not. I cannot seem to get a hold of a complete wiring diagram for the unit.

[larry2c]

Thanks for the info UT Grandpa - I am going to be setting up a 200W (2 100W panels) for my system and yes, there will be a charge controller (it's part of the kit I referenced in my other post). From the looks of the connector and the wires, I assume that it is intended to let you plug the panels into that connector and then run the wires that FR has coming out of the back of that connector to the charge controller. This is what FR calls "solar ready". I'm just thinking that the connector and wires FR provided are relatively cheap (in quality and price) and I should just replace them with parts I buy myself. As far as my batteries, I have 2 6V batteries in series and the cable lengths are as optimized as I can get them.

[larry2c]

Originally Posted by douglas c box

Does this decal indicate where you are to mount your solar controller? Is there wiring there to do so. I dont want to cut the panel there if not. I cannot seem to get a hold of a complete wiring diagram for the unit.

I'm not familiar with your model of TT but you should be able to track down the wires where they penetrate the frame and see where they go. On the Salem TT's they just supply the connector & wires, not the charge controller or any other required hardware.

[UT_Grandpa]

On some trailers there is a sticker on the paneling on the inside of the trailer where there is a loop of wire behind the paneling to insert the solar controller.

As I mentioned, I did not use the ZAMP connector choosing to run one directly from the panels and controller to the battery. I used Anderson Power pole connectors. My panels get moved around during the day as we normally camp in the pines and I have to move them to find the sun.

Good luck

[larry2c]

Quick question on the connectors - I want something robust and the Anderson Powerpole connectors look like they'd fit the bill. However, it looks like you'd need the special crimp tool. Since this will likely be the only time I'd be using them, is there another way to crimp them without buying the special crimping pliers?

[UT_Grandpa]

They can be soldered or Harbor Freight offers some electricians pliers that can be used to crimp the connector using a groove in the handles.

Here is what I had before I bought the Anderson specific crimper.
https://www.harborfreight.com/9-12-i...ool-63945.html

Anderson connector come in 10 Amp to 30 Amp that use the same shell and only differ in the size of the wire the contacts can handle. They even make some that go into the several hundreds of Amps - not needed for your application.

[larry2c]

UT_Grandpa - Thanks for the info on the connectors/crimp tool and for the clarification on the label on the inside of the trailer (don't have that in our unit)!

[Jay2504]

My Zamp connector was only 14 gauge wire. I reversed the polarity and wired it past the battery shut off so it is hot all the time. Works good for a quick voltage check and I can directly plug in my 1-1/2 amp battery charger/ maintainer. Jay