Using surge protector to check power at box?

[lbirdie123]

First time heading to campground with 2016 Georgetown 335ds. I have been watching numerous 'how to' videos for the last several weeks. I continue to watch them check the power box with meters. Here is my question : : Can I just plug in the Surge protector into the 50amp connection without being connected to the RV? I would assume that it would pick up any type of deficiency in the outlet with the codes on the surge protector before I hook into the RV. Right or Wrong??? Thanks - Happy Mardi Gras Y'all!!!

[ejohnson1144]

Yes

[Flybob]

Really depends on what surge protector you have. Some of the lower cost ones simply protect against power surges and will not warn you of all errors, while the higher end ones also warn/protect against high/low voltage, wiring errors as well as power surges. If you have a higher end one then yes your solution will work. Some protection devices actually do not energize the outlet side of the circuit until they have run through their checks and will prevent it from being energized if a fault is found.

[lbirdie123]

TRC 50 amp surge protector from Camping World. Show 8 different power situations. Thanks for y'all help. Think this is the way to go.

[youroo]

If your unit is "Hard Wired with a EMS" you are going to Drag that Heavy Cord out and plug in plus Wait until it runs its Check! Maybe to then find out there is a issue with "Park Power"! We just use a simple checker that can be hand carried over to the Power center,before Pulling in! Youroo!!

[babock]

The only thing plugging it in first won't check is a resistive circuit which would cause a voltage sag once you applied a load from your camper. Of course a good EMS would disconnect you.

[lbirdie123]

Not hard wired, but that was a thought before I bought this other one. Thanks.

https://images3.campingworld.com/Cam...1000/73995.jpg

[Kaadk]

Originally Posted by lbirdie123

Not hard wired, but that was a thought before I bought this other one. Thanks.

https://images3.campingworld.com/Cam...1000/73995.jpg

That looks like the lower end 'Surge Protection' vs the higher end 'EMS' style. You'll want to consult this chart on TRC's website for the kinds of miswiring that the lower one doesn't catch, like open grounds/neutrals:

https://rvpower.southwire.com/produc...ge-protection/

We used the higher end one (Model 34830 since we only needed 30A) to do exactly what you're looking to do though, just plugged it in and used it to check instead of monkeying around with multi-meters when the DW's impatient to get unhooked and setup.

[km5xa]

Originally Posted by youroo

If your unit is "Hard Wired with a EMS" you are going to Drag that Heavy Cord out and plug in plus Wait until it runs its Check! Maybe to then find out there is a issue with "Park Power"! We just use a simple checker that can be hand carried over to the Power center,before Pulling in! Youroo!!

Youroo, what type of simple checker do you use? I've been wanting to get a hardwired EMS for my rig but that is why I have not.

[jvalich]

Originally Posted by lbirdie123

Not hard wired, but that was a thought before I bought this other one. Thanks.

https://images3.campingworld.com/Cam...1000/73995.jpg

I would consider swapping that out for a unit that will protect against low and high voltage conditions as well. When you plug into the pedestal at the park, that unit will tell you everything is fine at that moment in time, however, if voltage goes high or goes low, which can happen frequently in summertime, you will have no protection. Low voltage is really rough on A/C units and other electronics.

I installed a hardwired Progressive Industry 50 AMP surge/EMS unit in my coach. Plug in, checks for all the mis-wired conditions as well as voltage and frequency of the power. Disconnects on high voltage, but more importantly to me, low voltage which would cause damage to my refrigerator, A/C units, etc. A couple hundred dollars more IMHO, is cheap insurance compared to replacement cost of an A/C or two , etc.

[brookstone345sa]

Like jvalich above but mine is portable unit. I have 50 amp Power Surge unit. I shut off power at pedestal, plug in unit and then power up. It checks all circuits. When it clears and I get Green Lights, Then I plug in camper./ I do have lock for it

[lbirdie123]

That is my thought process too. I do have a lock and chain for it.
Next thing to change is the locks on the storage bays!!!
Thanks for all the input from y'all!!!

[68 Whiskey]

I got a Progressive EMS-50X (50 amp plug in type). Works great and if I get a new RV it will go with me. I just ensure that it is securely attached to the power post.

[gordonsick]

Originally Posted by brookstone345sa

Like jvalich above but mine is portable unit. I have 50 amp Power Surge unit. I shut off power at pedestal, plug in unit and then power up. It checks all circuits. When it clears and I get Green Lights, Then I plug in camper./ I do have lock for it

Brookstone,
Your procedure is good, but since you have a 50 amp 220v circuit, I recommend shutting off the pedestal power after you see the green lights. Then plug in your power cable. Finally, turn on the pedestal power again.

The reason for this is that you want to make sure that you have a solid neutral connection before you power things up. If you align the plug so that the neutral (middle blade on top) connects AFTER the two hot blades on the side, you would temporarily have an open neutral. This can expose any 110v appliances that you have connected to as much as 220v.

I assume that is why a lot of campgrounds turn off the pedestal power before a new guest arrives.

–Gordon

[jvalich]

Originally Posted by gordonsick

Brookstone,
Your procedure is good, but since you have a 50 amp 220v circuit, I recommend shutting off the pedestal power after you see the green lights. Then plug in your power cable. Finally, turn on the pedestal power again.

The reason for this is that you want to make sure that you have a solid neutral connection before you power things up. If you align the plug so that the neutral (middle blade on top) connects AFTER the two hot blades on the side, you would temporarily have an open neutral. This can expose any 110v appliances that you have connected to as much as 220v.

I assume that is why a lot of campgrounds turn off the pedestal power before a new guest arrives.

–Gordon

The PI unit I have, and I'll assume that the portable version works the same, does not allow power to flow through to the coach until it has completed its' tests and all is well. I can attest to this because when I flip on the breaker the display on the PI unit scrolls through all the checks and once sees a "no error" condition, the transfer switch in my coach flips. This "pause" between the time I flip the breaker and the transfer switching is approx. 15 sec.

At the last camp site we were at, I had to use the doggone to go from 50 to 30 power. The dear daughter, closed the lid of the pedestal and when she did the handle cause the neutral to get half way out go the plug, the unit immediately shut power down. Accidental test, successful.

[Flybob]

X2 in the delay. With the PI EMS, you can plug the RV in when you connect to the pedestal. Turn the pedestal breaker on and the unit runs through the system checks and only if all is OK will it power up the RV.

[brookstone345sa]

I actually do shut the power back off, forgot to note that.
Makes me think of another question, Once I get the green light on circuit, could I just turn battery dis-connect off to plug in, or is it better to just power down all the way

[garbonz]

So I ran into 2 campgrounds n New Mexico with NO breaker on the pedestal. Still used my portable PD 30 amp ems, but wondered what that was about.

[Grouch]

I just bought the 30 amp version of this and am happy with it. But wow, it there a big price jump from the 30 amp version to the 50 amp version. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Protect.../dp/B00JFWKM0C

[itat]

I have a 30A hard wired EMS so I also got a Prime Products 12-4058 AC Power Line Monitor so I can check the pedestal at the campsite before I even back in. It won't work for a 50A service with two hot lines, but it can be used with a 30A to 15A dogbone to check a 30A pedestal.