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Old 08-02-2016, 09:41 PM   #1
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Well this is just common sense!

And a perfect example of why you shouldn't run your a/c on 15 amp household service.

RV technician uncovers new Dometic fire source | RV Daily Report




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Old 08-04-2016, 07:29 AM   #2
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Wow great read. Who'd of thought?
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:31 AM   #3
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I admit I've run the AC alone with those adapters. But only on a 20Amp outlet. And never with the Fridge on.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:34 AM   #4
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Last night in the heat and humidity my 15k was drawing 18 amps
Nothing else on electric except the constant converter which was drawing 2 amps.


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Old 08-04-2016, 10:24 AM   #5
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How can I figure out how much kilo watts my AC is?
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:35 AM   #6
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Volts x Amps = Watts, 1 Kw = 1000W
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:01 AM   #7
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Understood. P=IxE. What did measure the current with?
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:26 AM   #8
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I have to disagree with the assessment of the RV tech. RV techs are not engineers or electricians and are not qualified to make those sorts of assessments.

The condition of the blades on the adapter in the photo would indicate continual plugging in with the power still on. A converter has a momentary inrush current that causes pitting on the plug and receptacle/connector surfaces which in turn attracts dirt. Over time with repeated plugging in live, the surfaces get more and more pitted causing more dirt buildup and resistance that eventually causes heat and a meltdown (or worse). This happens a lot and I've seen many photos of this. I've seen some fairly new pedestals that actually now have a label on them saying to shut the power off before plugging in.

AC unit manufacturers specs. state that min. #12 gauge wire should be used along with a 20 amp breaker. Running current is in the 15 amp range for a 13.5 BTU AC unit and a Coleman Mach 3 for ex. is 15.3 amps. Starting inrush current (locked rotor current) for this AC is listed as 63.0 amps. A 15 amp adapter is not designed or approved to be running more than 15 amp on a continuous basis or to have high inrush currents. So if you are using a 15 amp adapter and running an AC unit, that's asking for it to become overheated. Couple this with the converter inrush current and there will eventually be damage and enough heat to cause melting (or worse). If you ask me, those 15 amp adapters should be banned and be rated for 20 amp or 15/20 amp circuits. The puck style adapters are much more likely to be damaged from overheating compared to a pigtail adapter due to the close proximity of contact surfaces.

The article states the Dometic refrigerator control boards will melt down as the current seeks a new neutral connection, the technician explained. That causes the electricity to jump to the earth ground connected to the chassis via the incoming shore earth ground. This makes no sense.

Who knows - maybe they are even trying to divert attention and blame to another source?

Just my 2 cents...
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Old 08-04-2016, 11:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myredracer View Post

The article states the Dometic refrigerator control boards will melt down as the current seeks a new neutral connection, the technician explained. That causes the electricity to jump to the earth ground connected to the chassis via the incoming shore earth ground. This makes no sense.
X2

Not only that. Reading between the lines some supposed "tech" at a dealer used that 15 amp adapter while working on someones rig. He discovered this while operating both the Fridge and AC while using that adapter and who knows what else on the rig, the converter for sure, did he fire up the microwave and heat up his lunch?

One of the comments to that article may say it best.......

"Trying to understand why this article insinuates that this is a Dometic refrigerator flaw. The orientation of these cheap adapters caused the trailer power cord to be plugged in “upside down” resulting in poor connection in the first place. Why any tech would be troubleshooting with one of these adapters negates the rule of having proper power before diagnosing an appliance. Not just refrigerators are impacted by this scenario. Why any 15 or 20 amp shop outlet is not a gfi is an electrical code question.
We as dealers and technicians should be educating our customers in the proper use of the systems on their RV and not providing fodder for class action lawsuits.
My $.002"
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchiar View Post
Understood. P=IxE. What did measure the current with?


I have a progressive industries 50 amp electrical management system.
Give out amps running through the electrical system.

http://www.progressiveindustries.net...ardwired/c1p4w



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