WFCO Power Panels

[Bill_C]

I just received a WFCO 8965 series power panel to replace my 35. I installed a second battery and the original converter was having a tough time maintaining two batteries.

The following is an excellent example of very poor quality control of this product.

The power panel package was received in excellent condition, not a dent in the shipping box or product box anywhere and sealed.
1. On opening the box the restraining cardboard inside was pretty much destroyed. Way to light to handle the product. I don't know why the unit itself was not damaged.
2. They have done nothing to fix the poor door latch that keeps falling open. My old one would not stay closed the first month I had my trailer (purchased new 2012). I can see this one will be the same. Duct tape to the rescue.
3. There are two plastic tabs that hold the 12 volt fuse panel in place at the top and a tab at the bottom. Both top tabs were broken. The fuse panel itself was just flopping around inside.
4. When a fuse burns out an LED indicator light is supposed to come on to show a blown fuse. 4 out of the 11 on the board work.

I know these products are cheaply made and purchased by manufacturers to keep the trailer costs down but I would expect an upgraded product when replacing them.

If you are ordering a new trailer it is well worth the cost to make sure the power panel is upgraded from the WFCO brand.

[thebrakeman]

Why would you expect an upgraded product, when you already know they are cheaply made and purchased by the manufacturers to keep the trailer costs down. Any supplier boosts their profit by continuing to ship the exact same product, with zero changes. Any change requires an initial cost of retooling (thousands or millions of dollars). They must then charge you (or the OEM) more money to pay for that retooling.

Since there are other products already out there by other suppliers that are superior, they know they can only continue to make money by supplying the same product, for less money than the competition. Your best choice is to go with the superior product, unless you are satisfied with the same product.

[f5moab]

I have an 8735 in mine and yes, duct tape keeps the door closed. So far, that is the only problem, seems to work ok, charges both 27 batteries with no problems; however, when (not if) it goes, it will not be a WFCO that goes back into that square hole.
If I'm going to spend a half a day to replace it, it is going to be a reliable model.

[TURBS]

I'm not sure why you replaced the whole distribution panel when you could have just bought a new converter.

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "24 nights"

[genecusano]

Hope this is not off subject. I have 2013 Micro Lite 21FBRS. I have 110 only when I unplug I have no 12v. I have 2 6v. The batteries read 13v when pluged in 12.8 when I drop electric can someone help?

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by genecusano

Hope this is not off subject. I have 2013 Micro Lite 21FBRS. I have 110 only when I unplug I have no 12v. I have 2 6v. The batteries read 13v when pluged in 12.8 when I drop electric can someone help?

So you have 12v power in the camper until you unplug the 120v shore power?

If so it sounds like you've tripped a current limiting curcuit breaker which is normally near your positive battery cable.
Follow the positive battery cable from the battery to your camper inline you'll find a breaker similar to this.


TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "24 nights"

[Flybob]

The circuitry that illuminates the LED when a fuse is blown only works when at least one leg of the circuit is on ( connected to ground through a load). It is likely that the circuits with unlit LEDs are connected to things controlled via a switch. Try turning on a switch ( ie light switch) and see if an additonal LED lights.

[Filthy Beast]

Maybe I am reading this wrong but it sounds to me like you increased the amperage from 36 to 65. If this is so, I hope you upgraded the wiring to the batteries.

[leland1950]

On a more positive note, I have had one for 3 yrs and not a problem. Fan comes on sometimes if I have every 12v light on, or maybe not since I switched to all LED's. Hope things haven't changed because bought another one for the Truck camper I'm building.

[Pierre Allard]

Originally Posted by TURBS

So you have 12v power in the camper until you unplug the 120v shore power?

If so it sounds like you've tripped a current limiting curcuit breaker which is normally near your positive battery cable.
Follow the positive battery cable from the battery to your camper inline you'll find a breaker similar to this.
Attachment 87603Attachment 87604

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "24 nights"

Have similor problem but no more 12v plug or unplug to 110v is it same breaker?

[Blackhat6mike]

Replaced my WLCO converter under warranty with a Parallax unit. Doesn't matter how many batteries you have as the converter is only going to produce just so much power to the batteries. More batteries only means the converter will run longer.
Two years now with no more problems. The WFCO unit lasted 3 months and the RV shop said they will not use WFCO units. They strongly advised me to go with Parallax.

[genecusano]

Originally Posted by TURBS

So you have 12v power in the camper until you unplug the 120v shore power?

If so it sounds like you've tripped a current limiting curcuit breaker which is normally near your positive battery cable.
Follow the positive battery cable from the battery to your camper inline you'll find a breaker similar to this.
Attachment 87603Attachment 87604

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "24 nights"

Thanks everyone for their help. A special thanks To TRUBS your pic's did the trick..It is fixed HHHaaaaaLLLuuuuuYA

[TURBS]

Another satisfied customer.


TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "24 nights"

[camaraderie]

Originally Posted by Blackhat6mike

Doesn't matter how many batteries you have as the converter is only going to produce just so much power to the batteries. More batteries only means the converter will run longer..

Well that may true in some cases but it is also false in others.
Wet cells have about a 20% of capacity limit ...regardless of the size of the charger.
If you have a single group 31 battery with a 100 a/h capacity...it can take about 20amps of charging current. Lets say you have a fairly standard 55 amp charger... it will only be working at 20 amps in bulk mode...adding another of the same battery...will allow it to work at 40 amps charging current ...still well below capacity. Charging 2 batts will not take any longer than charging 1.
Now if you had a charger that could not supply 20% of the a/h capacity of the new bank... then it would take longer to charge 2 batts than one.

As a practical matter...if you stay plugged in most of the time this is no big deal...but if you boondock and charge via generator...you want to size your bank/charger system @ 20%+ of capacity to avoid longer generator run times.