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Old 04-02-2016, 05:34 PM   #1
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What amp charger for 4 6v batteries

Heres what I know. Solaire 317bhsk with 8 gauge wire from the wfco 8955 to the batteries.

Doing my battery research is showing that the WFCO, while it is a 3 stage charger, rarely to never gets into the bulk charge stage. So I want to upgrade the converter/charger to something like the PD or Boondocker with the nod going to the PD unit for the ability to manually initiate bulk charging.

Will a 60amp unit be a good compromise between charging the 4 batteries while not needing to upgrade the 8 gauge wires or should I tear into the bottom of our new trailer and upgrade the wires and get a larger charger? We haven't gotten a chance to use the trailer yet so I do not have an answer as to how much boondocking we will be doing compared to having electrical hookups. We do have a EU3000is when we need it. I am jumping the gun and outfitting the trailer for ALL possibilities before we put it on the road.

I know that in general it would be a good idea to upgrade the wires regardless... But with the trailer being new to us, I am hesitant to pull the bottom of the trailer apart since I don't know whats going to be buried where.
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Old 04-02-2016, 05:48 PM   #2
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I found this on PD's website...

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11. How long will it take to re-charge my RV battery?
Battery recharge time is controlled by many factors, such as battery size, converter output rating the number of 12-volt lights and appliances that are “ON” during the re-charge cycle and how far the battery has been discharged. In our testing a 125-AH (Amp Hour) battery was fully discharged to 10.5-volts and then connected to a PD9160 (60-Amp) Converter/Charger set to our standard output voltage of 13.6-volts. The battery reached full charge in 70-hours.
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Old 04-02-2016, 06:07 PM   #3
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And from 12 volt side of life..

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OK, for you techie types, here are the specs for charging deep cycle flooded cell batteries: Most flooded batteries should be charged at no more than the "C/10" rate for any sustained period. "C/10" is the battery capacity in amp/hours divided by 10. For a 220 AH battery, this would equal 22 Amps. Charging at 15.5 volts will give you a 100% charge on Lead-Acid batteries. Note that flooded batteries MUST bubble (gas) somewhat to ensure a full charge, and to mix the electrolyte. Float voltage for Lead-Acid batteries should be about 2.15 to 2.23 volts per cell, or about 12.9-13.4 volts for a 12 volt battery. Flooded battery life can be extended if an equalizing charge is applied every 10 to 40 days. This is a charge that is about 10% higher than normal full charge voltage, and is applied for about 2 to 16 hours. This makes sure that all the cells are equally charged, and the gas bubbles mix the electrolyte. If the liquid in standard wet cells is not mixed, the electrolyte becomes "stratified". You can have very strong solution at the top, and very weak at the bottom of the cell.
So it sounds like a 60 amp converter/charger would be more than enough for 440 ah battery bank.

Right?
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Old 04-02-2016, 08:50 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by opie View Post
And from 12 volt side of life..



So it sounds like a 60 amp converter/charger would be more than enough for 440 ah battery bank.

Right?
Opie, I have a 440 AH bank as well and a PD 9270 with a charge wizard. I also have about 22 feet of #8 between my converter and the battery bank. With this setup the most I ever get on the batteries is about 14.2 volts and it works fine. I doubt if the 60 to 70 makes a lot of difference since I have never seen 70 amps anyway. This wizard is nice since I can force it into boost mode. I am planning on eliminating the negative #8 lead and grounding the negative to the chassis.

You should be fine.
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Old 04-02-2016, 09:05 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
Opie, I have a 440 AH bank as well and a PD 9270 with a charge wizard. I also have about 22 feet of #8 between my converter and the battery bank. With this setup the most I ever get on the batteries is about 14.2 volts and it works fine. I doubt if the 60 to 70 makes a lot of difference since I have never seen 70 amps anyway. This wizard is nice since I can force it into boost mode. I am planning on eliminating the negative #8 lead and grounding the negative to the chassis.

You should be fine.
Thanks for that. My negative lead is grounded to the A frame about 3' away from the batteries.

I have also been reading about leaving the stock converter charger in and locating a better unit closer to the batteries. I like this option but wiring the additional unit in has me puzzled.
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Old 04-03-2016, 01:32 AM   #6
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Maybe this will help.
INTELI-POWER PD9260 for Better RV Battery Charging
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Old 04-03-2016, 04:45 AM   #7
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You will not find better info on rv battery charging than here:
https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/

It is a long article, but he knows what he's talking about as he has lived in his rv for many years.
Although he uses solar for his battery charging, all the tech aspects apply to any type of battery charging system.

Using much of his advice, my system has been working/charging flawlessly for 2 1/2 years now. (I live in my W&P)
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:28 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Silverado2500HD View Post
So perhaps I have been misunderstanding.... Folks that purchase a charger and locate it closer to the batteries are not relying on it to convert 120 to 12 to run the 12v in their trailer while plugged in?

Thats what is stumping me... Is a "closer to the batteries" converter charger replacing an OE unit or is it being run as a standalone. Seems like there would be some wiring to be done to relocate the OE unit and still have it function as a converter charger for the TT.

Admittedly, though, I don't have a full grasp of TT wiring yet.
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:15 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Snuff Gear View Post
You will not find better info on rv battery charging than here:
https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/...ging-puzzle-2/

It is a long article, but he knows what he's talking about as he has lived in his rv for many years.
Although he uses solar for his battery charging, all the tech aspects apply to any type of battery charging system.

Using much of his advice, my system has been working/charging flawlessly for 2 1/2 years now. (I live in my W&P)
Thanks for the link. Ive seen it but never read through its entirety.

What I am taking away from what he wrote is there isn't a converter/charger on the market that will properly charge a battery. The majority of what he wrote, 2/3 or so, is specific to solar units and solar charging. Perhaps its because it has not been updated in regards to currently available converter/chargers on the market that say they put out 14.4-14.8 volts in bulk mode.
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:18 AM   #10
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I have a converter that came with the camper and I recently purchased a PD 70amp converter. I have just installed a bank of four six volt batteries separate from the camper battery bank, I have a 40amp battery charger. Would it be better to hook the PD 70amp converter up to the new bank of batteries or use the 40amp battery charger. I have a 3,000 watt inverter hooked up to the new bank of batteries, I plan to use the new bank for dry camping


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