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04-12-2016, 09:16 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 3
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What is this little red box the Negative battery cable connects to on the frame
I have a corroded "junction box"?? that the negative battery cable connects to on the frame of my RV. The negative battery cable connects to the battery then runs to this point on my frame. Its a little red plastic cover that covers the connection of the negative battery cable on one post, and another post that connects 4 smaller wires. Can anybody tell me what this is. I need a new one. Mine is totally corroded.
Thank you in advance.
Gunclubchamp
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04-12-2016, 09:21 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunclubchamp
I have a corroded "junction box"?? that the negative battery cable connects to on the frame of my RV. The negative battery cable connects to the battery then runs to this point on my frame. Its a little red plastic cover that covers the connection of the negative battery cable on one post, and another post that connects 4 smaller wires. Can anybody tell me what this is. I need a new one. Mine is totally corroded.
Thank you in advance.
Gunclubchamp
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Does it look anything like this resettable fuse (aka short-stop circuit breaker)?
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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04-12-2016, 09:26 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,652
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Not likely on the negative side of the battery.
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04-12-2016, 09:30 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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It sounds like a terminal strip, but a picture would help a lot.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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04-12-2016, 09:31 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubbles
Not likely on the negative side of the battery.
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Unless the member is only looking at wiring color, which if black and white, causes confusion as to what is positive(black) and negative(white) on a RV.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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04-12-2016, 09:36 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 3
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That's it!
That's it exactly! The red one! What is that called. I need a new one. Thank you so much!
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04-12-2016, 09:39 AM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 3
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You answered my question earlier, thanks
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04-12-2016, 09:45 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunclubchamp
You answered my question earlier, thanks
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You are welcome, but as Bubbles pointed out, are you sure it's on the negative cable (which it could be)?
The reason I ask, is RV battery wiring color can fool you. If you have a black and white wire going to the battery, the BLACK is usually the POSITIVE wire, and the white is the negative wire. It's more like the way a house is wired accorded to color schemes.
It kind of runs counter intuitive to what you are used to on a vehicle...but you need to know this in case you ever change your battery or such. If you connect the battery wires backwards, you will blow the reverse polarity fuses to your converter.
Now to just add more to the confusion, if your RV battery wires are only black and red, then the opposite holds true and it's like on your vehicle. The red is positive and the black is negative.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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04-12-2016, 09:51 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunclubchamp
That's it exactly! The red one! What is that called. I need a new one. Thank you so much!
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The red is just a removable cover TO the 12 volt resettable fuse. You can pick these up at about any auto parts store. They are sized according to amps.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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04-12-2016, 09:53 AM
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#10
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Worse yet, they are current limiters (fuses) and have a rating specific to your camper and the circuit it is protecting.
You will most likely need to disconnect your battery, LABEL THE WIRES, remove the current limiter and read the numbers on the side if you can.
It can be a challenge.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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04-12-2016, 10:24 AM
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#11
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire
You are welcome, but as Bubbles pointed out, are you sure it's on the negative cable (which it could be)?
The reason I ask, is RV battery wiring color can fool you. If you have a black and white wire going to the battery, the BLACK is usually the POSITIVE wire, and the white is the negative wire. It's more like the way a house is wired accorded to color schemes.
It kind of runs counter intuitive to what you are used to on a vehicle...but you need to know this in case you ever change your battery or such. If you connect the battery wires backwards, you will blow the reverse polarity fuses to your converter.
Now to just add more to the confusion, if your RV battery wires are only black and red, then the opposite holds true and it's like on your vehicle. The red is positive and the black is negative.
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And to throw a third option out there, mine is red (+) and white (-). No black in sight.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
__________________
There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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04-12-2016, 10:41 AM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769
You will most likely need to disconnect your battery, LABEL THE WIRES, remove the current limiter and read the numbers on the side if you can.
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Good reminder, Lou. BEFORE you start trying to replace the resettable fuse (which is usually on the positive wire to the battery)...you need to disconnect at least the negative on the battery beforehand, so you will not have a hot circuit going to the resettable fuse.
It would be too easy to get a wrench or ratchet to touch the frame if on a live circuit and spark or burn up something. Disconnect the battery first (and make sure what wire is negative and positive to the battery).
Many people carry cellphones with cameras these days, and it doesn't take hardly any effort at all to take pics beforehand, so you won't have to rely on your memory later of the way everything is wired.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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04-12-2016, 11:22 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South East
Posts: 996
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What ever did we do before cameras with phones in them. If it were not for mine I surely would blow something up.:-)
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04-12-2016, 11:45 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin/Florida
Posts: 1,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herk7769
Worse yet, they are current limiters (fuses) and have a rating specific to your camper and the circuit it is protecting.
You will most likely need to disconnect your battery, LABEL THE WIRES, remove the current limiter and read the numbers on the side if you can.
It can be a challenge.
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Site team edit: PenJoe has asked that the following 3 sentences from him, be disregarded, as he typed opposite what he intended to. See post #26 below.
Note: When disconnecting a battery, remove the positive cable first, then the negative cable. When connecting the cables to the battery, it is in reverse. Connect the negative cable first, then, second, the positive cable.
Also it appears that the OP has several wires connecting to the positive post.
Tip: bundle or tape together all of the wires from one post, then do the same with the other post. If these wires are kept together, it is much easier to replace them correctly. This can be done with something as simple as masking tape or a rubber band.
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04-12-2016, 11:53 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 1,075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PenJoe
Note: When disconnecting a battery, remove the positive cable first, then the negative cable. When connecting the cables to the battery, it is in reverse. Connect the negative cable first, then, second, the positive cable.
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That is completely opposite from everything I learned over the years building and racing cars. When removing the positive lead first, there is a high risk of the wrench contacting metal near the battery. If the negative lead is still connected to the battery, this will cause a short. Same goes for installing the positive lead last when re-connecting the battery. IMO, it is always safer removing the negative lead first.
__________________
Lee and Anne
2016 F250 2WD CC SB XLT 6.2 3,295 lb payload cap.
2014 Salem Hemisphere 282RK 8k lbs loaded, Equal-i-zer WDH, TST 507 TPMS
2021: 35 nights already booked so far
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04-12-2016, 11:59 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 171
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Quote:
That is completely opposite from everything I learned over the years building and racing cars. When removing the positive lead first, there is a high risk of the wrench contacting metal near the battery. If the negative lead is still connected to the battery, this will cause a short. Same goes for installing the positive lead last when re-connecting the battery. IMO, it is always safer removing the negative lead first.
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Yup.....
This is the way I've been teaching car stereo installers for years.
BTW, I HATE auto reset circuit breakers like all these RVs use and is pictured above. This crappy, $5, Chinese made CB is all that stands between your RV having a very bad day!
I've seen them burn cars to the ground. I don't allow them in my shop. If there is a short, these things can cycle on and off until they fail.....hopefully in the open position. But they can fail in the closed position and then all hell breaks lose!
I like a high quality, weather protected fuse holder and a fuse.....or a manually reset circuit breaker.
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04-12-2016, 12:02 PM
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#17
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,173
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I disconnect my negative first, but that's because I tend to lean against the frame while disconnecting my positive since it's farther inboard. Don't want to make a connection between positive and negative via my hands to knees.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
__________________
There's no use crying over spilt milk... unless it's on your keyboard.
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04-12-2016, 12:03 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Southern Delaware
Posts: 201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teamfour
That is completely opposite from everything I learned over the years building and racing cars. When removing the positive lead first, there is a high risk of the wrench contacting metal near the battery. If the negative lead is still connected to the battery, this will cause a short. Same goes for installing the positive lead last when re-connecting the battery. IMO, it is always safer removing the negative lead first.
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X4. 40 years industrial on the mechanic. - off 1st + last. Reverse for reconnecting.
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04-12-2016, 12:09 PM
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#19
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2012 Solera
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,824
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Except on my 1959 MGA. That car is positive ground!
__________________
JLeising
2012 Solera "S"
Calif SF Bay Area
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04-12-2016, 12:24 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLeising
Except on my 1959 MGA. That car is positive ground!
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It was the same on the 1970 Austin America I drove in high school.
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