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Old 05-25-2015, 04:32 PM   #1
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Wiring diagram

I need a wiring diagram for 2003 wildcat fifthwheel for wire that runs from trailer to truck that run breaks and lights
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Old 05-25-2015, 04:57 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allanhoward View Post
I need a wiring diagram for 2003 wildcat fifthwheel for wire that runs from trailer to truck that run breaks and lights
Good Luck finding one, unless some owner made his own you will not get one from FR for any unit...
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Old 05-25-2015, 05:08 PM   #3
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R u talking about 7- wire or 6- wire umbilical plug to trailer or from plug to truck?
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Old 05-25-2015, 05:14 PM   #4
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I just bought a 2015 Wolf Pup and need to install an inverter for dry camping. I am looking at a 3000 Watt unit to connect to the two deep cycle marine batteries.

Is it possible to connect the inverter to the batteries with properly rated cables then connect the 120 Volt AC output of the inverter to the power distribution box with all the fuses and breakers? What I am trying to do is power the microwave, water pumps, lights, stereo and a TV not necessarily all at the same time, but when I need 2-3 devices on demand.

There must be a way to do this by feeding the 120 Volts into the breakers using a rated switch that disconnects the 30 Amp/15Amp input that we normally plug into the AC power box at the campground.

From what I read Forest River does not give out their wiring diagrams but I'm guessing somebody has done this by tracing out the wiring and drawing up their own schematic.

Any ideas or resources would be appreciated.
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Old 05-25-2015, 06:48 PM   #5
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Oh internal wiring then no I don't. I use portable generator connected to shore power cable when no A/C is available to power the items you mentioned which also charges my trailer battery.
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Old 05-26-2015, 12:03 PM   #6
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Found solution

Go power makes a t-30 switcher that has two ac inputs. One from the inverter and one from shore power that feeds breaker box. You wire one input to the t-30 from inverter and one from shore power. Switcher senses if inverter is on and if so sends power to breaker box. Otherwise switcher feeds breaker box.

Too short on time to explain but will post results.
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:42 PM   #7
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Go Power Inverter 3000 Watts

I found a work around on installing this 3000w inverter into my toy hauler. Simply wire the input of the inverter directly to the battery bank using the large welding cable red and black connectors rated for the application. Mount the inverter, in my case under the bunk at the front of the trailer, bolting or hard mounting in place.

Since this inverter only outputs 15 Amps into 4 outlets you have to do two wiring operations. The first one is to wire an outlet rated 15A, GFI preferred to an inside wall of the trailer. Connect the outlet to a cord rated for 15A 120 Volts AC that has a male plug and plug into one of the 4 inverter outputs.

The second connection is made by connecting a 15A 120 Volt AC cord to another one of the 4 inverter output outlets. This cord is routed thru a port you install into the side of the trailer. I am buying one that seals well against weather with the Female cord end available to pull out on demand and connect to the shore power adapter going into the 3 prong 30 Amp connector I would use at a campground power box. (Of course use the adapter to allow the 30 Amp outlet to connect to the 15 Amp cord)

This would make more sense with a photo and I will try to post that once this is complete.

You do have limitations:
(1) Your outlet inside the trailer is now a stand alone 15 Amp 120 Volt AC that can be used to plug in your TV, DVD Player, Hair Dryer etc.

(2)When you feed your shore power input from the inverter you have 25 Amps at 120 Volts coming into your trailer power distribution box. This will power things like the AC, Microwave and water pumps. However, unless you have 10 deep cycle batteries connected in parallel, do not try to run your AC off your 12 Volt battery system. You can run the microwave (by itself, no hair dryer at the same time), your pumps and your stereo at the same time, etc.

Just make sure you know the power ratings of each device and don't draw high levels of current for extended periods as you will drain your batteries quickly.

I am starting with two deep cycle batteries that I will recharge during the day with my 6500 Watt generator so I can use these devices at night and not wake up anyone nearby by running my generator at night.

This setup is not for everyone. It suits my needs and is a DIY project that will save me a ton of installation money from my local RV shop. If in doubt at all utilize a certified electrician or your local RV repair shop. They are an outstanding source of knowledge and certified to perform many tasks that can get you in trouble if you don't do them right.

I am interested in any feedback on what I may have missed or how to improve my DIY inverter project.
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Old 07-04-2015, 08:29 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Good Luck finding one, unless some owner made his own you will not get one from FR for any unit...
I got some papers that were labeled "wire Diagram" for my 2008 Coachmen Freelander. As a degreed engineer I can attest that if I were teaching a High School shop class on schematics and got drawings that Coachmen supposedly uses for their build I would at best give the student a D-

No color codes, No wire gauge. Wire runs shown that did not exist in the coach and wire runs in the coach not shown on the diagram. It was not much better than some rough goal aimed at allowing some of the electrical items to sort of work.

I take this diagram an physical evidence of a complete lack of a quality mindset at FR. If you don't have a diagram that represents reality then how can you expect the guys on the assy line to build it right in the first place or the folks at dealers that are trying to fix screw-ups from the factory to be able to solve problems.
We the owner are probably paying twice what it should cost as the time it takes for the shop tech to figure out the actual wiring in a coach is probably twice what it should be if there was a drawing that represented what was built.


The drawing is only part of the problem. The other is the "rats nest" of what is suppose to pass for a safe functional wire harness. Exposed electrically hot wires are not a demonstration of due diligence or even casual care for the safety of the future owners of a FR RV.

BYW if in doubt I have photographic evidence to support all the above.
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