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Old 06-28-2014, 01:27 PM   #1
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Wiring from battery to converter

Hi all. Have a question for the 12 volt wiring experts. My trailer, a 2014 roo 233s is now equipped with 2 6v batteries with an external battery shut off. Click image for larger version

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My local auto house made me some custom length 4 g wire for this setup which I ran to the original position under the trailer, a soliniid of some sort. Click image for larger version

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From this point on, the cable goes down to 8awg and is ran to the interior switch.

Should I have another piece of 4g ran to the 8955 WFCO converter? I will likely eliminate the interior battery switch if I go this route.


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Old 06-29-2014, 12:46 AM   #2
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Is the second picture a battery disconnect solenoid?
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:56 AM   #3
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Unprotected positive connections...
Not a great idea.
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Old 06-29-2014, 09:00 AM   #4
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Second picture is a "shortstop" resettable fuse.

BAD idea to have coated it in whatever goop you spayed it with as the circuit breaker is located in the side of the unit. It may not pop out if it is overloaded/shorted.

Running a heavier gauge wire all the way to the converter is not needed.
The coach should never pull the kind of amperage larger cables could carry.

The battery shutoff should not be removed either.

However, those exposed 12 volt terminals should be enclosed somehow for corrosion prevention. The original rubber boot was most likely tossed by your installer because it no longer fit with the new heavier terminal.
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:39 AM   #5
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Wiring from battery to converter

It is a battery terminal protectant spray. I will wipe is off from the short stop.

I was just worried about having mismatched sized wire from my battery to that "short stop."

4g is all I could have made and I did not want to go all over town looking for the wire and terminals I needed.

There are rubber boots I am looking for that go to my battery disconnect switch.

Herk, if I installed another shut off/disconnect outside, why would I not be able to get rid Of the one inside? I am curious as this rv wiring and converter stuff is fairly new to me. I am trying to eliminate failure points.

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Old 06-29-2014, 03:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grizzlygibbs View Post
Herk, if I installed another shut off/disconnect outside, why would I not be able to get rid Of the one inside? I am curious as this rv wiring and converter stuff is fairly new to me. I am trying to eliminate failure points.
So, without a good wiring diagram of how your battery bank was wired, it is hard to tell if the interior shutoff switch is still needed.

Is there anything between the new shutoff switch and the batteries? Is there anything between the two switches that should be (or you would like to be) powered when other things are isolated? (Like clocks, slides, or propane detector?)
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Old 06-29-2014, 03:38 PM   #7
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Battery + to outside switch to short stop to j-box to 30A fuse to inside switch to converter.

Nothing necessarily that I need powered when my outside switch is off. I suppose I will likely just leave everything else as is.
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Old 06-29-2014, 03:52 PM   #8
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IMO, the new one was the one to be eliminated since it is before the fuse; but if that is not an option I would just leave it alone. You should definitely cover the exposed 12 volt "un-fused" wire terminals at the new switch since a short there will cause a fire without fuse protection between there and the batteries.
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:27 PM   #9
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Hmm, I was just trying to eliminate parasitic battery drain and I thought by installing the disconnect between my batteries and everything else was the way to go.
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:37 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Grizzlygibbs View Post
Hmm, I was just trying to eliminate parasitic battery drain and I thought by installing the disconnect between my batteries and everything else was the way to go.
Well, you accomplished that. Just saying the exposed "hot wire" can cause an unstoppable short if it occurs there.
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