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Old 08-29-2015, 02:51 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by MOODMAN View Post
this is why I am confused...

Some people here say that they can run their campers A/C with as little as 3000 watts generators. Such units certainly don't have 30 amp outputs but they will run at least one AC unit

>>Moodman, my Champion 3100 W will run one 15000 btu AC, refer and converter. Water heater must be on gas, can't use the microwave unless I turn off the AC.

OTOH, this is a 7500W generator. I have looked and the only generators I have seen with the 50A output PLUG (but labeled as 30A service) are 10,000 watt generators.

>>Like previously stated you will have a difficult time finding a generator with a 50A RV plug. But the generator should be capable of providing an RV with 50A service. 50A=6000 watts and yours has 7500 peak capability so in theory it should run both AC units, refer, converter and maybe other small appliances (Coffee pot?).

This generator is labeled as 30A at the 120/240 plug, which is the same as the 10,000W generators. SO I wonder how it is that getting 2,500 more watts also gets me a genuine 50A plug outlet, but still is rated at the same amperage as this 7500W generator?

Furthermore, why do I have to go up to 10,000 watts in order to get the plug I need for my 50A RV, especially seeing as they both provide 30A, though the watts are different?

What I really want is just enough watts to run my camper at least on one A/C, with the right plug on it without needing an adapter. I have been reading here and see that some people have had success with as little as 3600W gennys. Getting a 10,000W genny seems like overkill, but then again, that is the only genny with the correct plug. Any other generators have this kind of plug, and you have to get an adapter. What's up with that?
>>You will need some kind of adaptor-no way to get around this unless you remove the existing 50a receptacle and install an RV 50 amp receptacle in the control panel. If you do that it will be like plugging in a campsite pedestal.
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:36 PM   #12
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Clr, it should work just like it would at the campground on a 120/240 volt split phase outlet as he has a 50 amp RV. It will use BOTH hots, the neutral and the ground. The panel in the RV keeps the legs separate (thus no 240) and utilizes EACH hot leg separate for 120 volts only. It's explained in the link I posted above.

The OP will be limited to a max of 7500 watts, and that could be peak watts, not running load watts. A campground 120/240 volt 50 amp split phase service is capable of providing 12000 watts.

However, when you are plugging a 30 amp camper into a 120/240 split phase outlet, then what you stated is true. The adapter in that scenario, only utilizes one hot leg, the neutral, and ground.....and the second hot leg is basically capped off inside the adapter.

EDIT: This schematic should help in understanding how the two hot legs are separate in the RV and thus remain 120 volt. You would need both hot legs running to an outlet or appliance in the rv for it to be 240.

The problem is when someone hooks to a 240 outlet that is wired in a way that the allows the second 120 volt leg to go thru the normally neutral wire.




Great info and I don't what happened to your other post at the end of the thread but I have question along the lines of this topic. In the diagram the breaker box is separated into two sides so-to-speak... when you use a 50A-30A adapter how is the whole panel powered? Is there a jumper in the adapter to energize both "legs"?

Also, can the trailer be plugged into a 240V 50A receptical at home, say for a welder? That would power both legs in 120V separately, yes?

Thanks!!
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:41 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by HondoFlatty View Post
Great info and I don't what happened to your other post at the end of the thread but I have question along the lines of this topic. In the diagram the breaker box is separated into two sides so-to-speak... when you use a 50A-30A adapter how is the whole panel powered? Is there a jumper in the adapter to energize both "legs"?

Also, can the trailer be plugged into a 240V 50A receptical at home, say for a welder? That would power both legs in 120V separately, yes?

Thanks!!
Yes, when using an adapter to plug a 50 amp rv into a single phase 30 amp outlet, the adapter does jump the single hot leg to both sides. I have diagrams in other threads that show this. When I'm not on the phone like now I will find it and edit this post.

You can plug into a 50 amp welding outlet if it is wired the same , with two hot legs, a neutral , and a ground. The 50 amp rv outlet isn't special and is the same as other applications. However, and a big but, you cannot hook up to any 240 volt outlet that doesn't have a specific and correct neutral. This three wire scenario is what causes the problems and is how a lot of electricians mistakingly wire up for a single phase 30 amp .
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:48 PM   #14
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Yes, when using an adapter to plug a 50 amp rv into a single phase 30 amp outlet, the adapter does jump the single hot leg to both sides. I have diagrams in other threads that show this. When I'm not on the phone like now I will find it and edit this post.

You can plug into a 50 amp welding
Awesome, thanks! I'm new here and I don't have a Forest River. I haven't had a chance to peruse the site. That diagram you posted answers a major question of mine that I've had since I bought my 5er. My dad sent me this link this morning for the genny info, my question came to mind as I read through the thread.
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:51 PM   #15
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I was,editing my above post as you replied. I hate typing long posts on the phone. Lol

I added more about the welding plug. There is a website that explains all the different wiring and testing.

Www.myrv.us/electric
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:05 PM   #16
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I hear ya. Makes sense. The plug must be wired correctly. Two, separate hot legs and a correct neutral.. Just the way it come into the home, as opposed to the way it would come out of your electric range breaker carrying a full 240V to the range.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:13 PM   #17
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30 Amps 120 is about 3600 watts. 30 amp 120 X 2 Legs should be about 7200 watts. This generator should power both legs of his camper with about 30 amps of power each. As long as the ACs are on separate legs, I don't see an issue.
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Old 08-30-2015, 06:15 AM   #18
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I have the same plug on my generator at home and use a plug to power my home when the electric is out. It splits the electric into two 120volt lines to power three air conditioers in the house. The generator is a champion 7500 watts. It does an excellent job. I bought an adapter for for my trailer that goes from 4prongs twist lock to 50 amp plug for the trailer
The adapter you describe is the one I believe MOODMAN will need.
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:07 AM   #19
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You will get proper voltage. Generators are labeled with the 120/240 deal because you can purchase a conversion kit for specific generators in case you want to connect to your home panel for emergency use during power outages.
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Old 08-31-2015, 04:37 AM   #20
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I hear ya. Makes sense. The plug must be wired correctly. Two, separate hot legs and a correct neutral..
It must have two hot legs, a correct neutral, and a ground. Four wires total and they must be the correct size for 50 amps. The myrv.us link above explains it better. It also explains how to make a three wire welding outlet into either a 30 amp 120 volt or a 50 amp 120/240 volt outlet.....and even possibly a 120/240 volt 30 amp outlet according to what wire size there is. Click on the welder service tab in the link.

This 120/240 30 amp scenario is what we have been kinda discussing with the OP's generator and adapter.

Just to show you, I have a champion 4000/3500 watt generator. It also has a 120/240 twistlock outlet on it. However, mine states on a tag on the top that my particular generator will output 29.2 amps on 120 or 14.6 amps per leg on 120/240.

This matches the formula
29.2 amps x 120 volts = 3504 watts or rounded to 3500 watts.


The OP generator probably states also how much power his will output in both scenarios too.
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