All Kinds of Jack Pads

[Alan JS]

We are scheduled to pick up our Georgetown xl 378 in the next week or so. There are automatic Lippert levelers installed which should make set up at a "new" campground easier.
I am overwhelmed by the choices of jack pads available in the market from polypropylene breakables to heavy duty outrigger truck stabilizers to Hoss pads.
Can anyone tell me what I need. There may be gravel or grass set ups at many sites so a stable platform seems like a necessity for the fridge and leveling the unit. Many places require pads to avoid damage to the RV pads they have in place.
What have others bought for their units levelers?

[TexasBBQ]

I've used the square orange pads that you can find at Walmart or on Amazon for about 30-35 bucks. I've not had very good luck with them but several other campers like them a lot. I 've destroyed several of them when they slide on asphalt when backing the trailer over them. Even the front levelers have deformed them when used on soft ground.

I ended up going to the hardware store and buying a 2x10 peice of cedar. I made a few pads for the levers and a couple long peices for the wheels in case I needed to lift one side a lot. I cut 45° angles on those. They don't slide on any type of pavement. I spent less than 1/3 the cost of those orange pads.

I chose cedar because it's very light weight.

[Alan JS]

Thank you Texas. Some of the pads advertised are very expensive and can cost 60-70 dollars. That seems like way too much for a piece of rubber..
I definitely don't want something that will crack apart with minimal usage.

[funkyJunk]

I use these on the front:

D1515.75 - Light Duty - Outrigger Pads

And I rarely use anything on the back 4 unless it is on grass or mud. If I do use anything it's just a few linx levelers on the back. Seems to work fine.

[OldCoot]

I cut (4) 2 x 10" x 12" long and lag bolted them to the existing trailer pads front and rear and leave them on all the time. Works good on grass, gravel or concrete.
Cheap and no storage problems.

[Alan JS]

Rv leveling,,RV Accessories leveling pad leveling blocks camping jacks trucks | eBay
These were on ebay and price included 4 pads. They seemed thich enough and not brittle like plastic. There should be flexibility for different surfaces I would guess. But rather pay in the 30's.

[Dovetail]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

I cut (4) 2 x 10" x 12" long and lag bolted them to the existing trailer pads front and rear and leave them on all the time. Works good on grass, gravel or concrete.
Cheap and no storage problems.

Nice idea, gonna do that.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by rickthelen

Nice idea, gonna do that.

Just be sure you use treated lumber.

[TexasBBQ]

Originally Posted by rickthelen

Nice idea, gonna do that.

X2

[Alan JS]

All the jack pads using rubbber bases which conform to the ground make so much more sense . Having brittle pieces of plastic compounds only, are sure to crack , bend, or break with repeated usage.
Not being mechanically inclined I think we will invest in the 1" rubber Hosspads (8 1/2 " X 8 1/2 ") under a set of Camco squares which would also serve as wheel chocks.
I realize that not every camp site is a cement pad perfectly level.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Alan JS

All the jack pads using rubbber bases which conform to the ground make so much more sense . Having brittle pieces of plastic compounds only, are sure to crack , bend, or break with repeated usage.
Not being mechanically inclined I think we will invest in the 1" rubber Hosspads (8 1/2 " X 8 1/2 ") under a set of Camco squares which would also serve as wheel chocks.
I realize that not every camp site is a cement pad perfectly level.

Have used 2x10 treated lumber pads for at least 30 yrs on every imaginable surface and never had one break. On a 5er, the rubber pads will put a excess amount of strain on the landing jacks when checking to make sure your latched. The rubber will not slide.

[awjoker]

Our group uses Lynx Levelers. If the ground is soft, a 2x8 goes under them. For leveling side to side, a combination of Lynx Levelers and lumber is utilized. If you use lumber, be sure to cut the edge on a 45* angle. It coule be a costly mistake not to

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by awjoker

Our group uses Lynx Levelers. If the ground is soft, a 2x8 goes under them. For leveling side to side, a combination of Lynx Levelers and lumber is utilized. If you use lumber, be sure to cut the edge on a 45* angle. It coule be a costly mistake not to

Same here for leveling the trailer, but the OP was talking about the jack pads themselves, or at least I thought he was.

[Alan JS]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

Have used 2x10 treated lumber pads for at least 30 yrs on every imaginable surface and never had one break. On a 5er, the rubber pads will put a excess amount of strain on the landing jacks when checking to make sure your latched. The rubber will not slide.

I understand what you mean by not allowing the jack strut to adjust as it descends. If there is too much friction it will put strain on the mechanism. I will place an inexpensive Camco pad on top of the rubber base so it can move about as it begins to bear load.
What do you mean about being "latched"?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Alan JS

I understand what you mean by not allowing the jack strut to adjust as it descends. If there is too much friction it will put strain on the mechanism. I will place an inexpensive Camco pad on top of the rubber base so it can move about as it begins to bear load.
What do you mean about being "latched"?

On a 5er, once you latch the hitch, you need to raise the landing gear very slightly, set the trailer brakes and try to pull forward to make sure the hitch actually latched. This means the landing pads have to slide a little until the trailer brakes engage.

[awjoker]

Originally Posted by dunnnc

Same here for leveling the trailer, but the OP was talking about the jack pads themselves, or at least I thought he was.

I was too. The side to side comments was an add on. Lynx Levelers under the jack pads.