Are these tires OK?

[seakayaker]

Just bought a new truck (Silverado 1500) and new TT (Wildwood 27RKSS).

Below are the specs for the tires currently on each.

Are either of these crapola tires or are they ok (i.e. safe)?
If you consider that I should replace any of them now what specs should I be looking for?

TT Tires:
Castle Rock ST
ST205/75R15
Tread: 2 nylon plies & 2 steel plies
Sidewall: 2 nylon plies
50 psi
Made in China

Truck Tires:
Goodyear Wrangler SR-A
P265/65R18
51 psi
Made in Canada

[HONDAMAN174]

My 2 cents-

Change the TT tires to load range d and sell the old ones on Craig's list. Don't forget the spare.

I would continue to use the tires on your truck at max sidewall pressure while towing until they are worn and due for replacement UNLESS you have a sway issue-then upgrade to load range d's or e's.


2014 Evo 2850 "Woodstock"
2011 Toyota Tundra "Clifford"

[Tireman9]

All tires sold for use on public highways must be "certified" by the tire company to meet published regulations. The RV company is responsible for advising of the inflation needed to carry the load as shown on the certification label.
The label is located on outside at the front end of the driver side of the trailer.

While "Made in China" is correct it might be more meaningful to know which tire plant made the tires as I do not know of a "Castle Rock" tire company so this is just a name molded on the tire. To learn the tire plant and even more importantly the 'BORN ON" date we need the full DOT serial molded on the sidewall of every tire.

Another item you can use to judge the quality of your tires is to check for the written tire warranty. Is it good for 30 days, one year? or did it expire the moment you drove off the dealer lot?

You might ask the RV dealer for the location of the nearest dealer selling and servicing Castle Rock tires

[emm-dee]

Go to any of the truck forums and you'll learn that the Goodyear SRA tires are pure JUNK. The sidewalls are paper thin (well, not quite but you get the idea). Even without a trailer hooked up they let your truck do a lot of swaying, especially when a big truck or a box truck passes. I even noticed movement when getting passed by large sedans at 75+ MPH. At least you can get a new set for about $500. If you're lucky they might last 35,000 miles.

Go get a quality set of E-loads.

[rlocicero]

Cooper ht3 load range E work well.

[GreenImp]

You didnt exactly specify, but I assume your new truck and trailer is actually "new"...not just new to you. The below post assumes a brand new truck and trailer.

While there are certainly far better tires out there for both your TT and TV, they will most likely give you at least several years of service before needing to be replaced. At that time I would upgrade both to something better. Replacing them now and selling them as used is also a good idea (it's what I did, but is not as cheap).

What you should buy right away before any lengthy towing is a TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitor System) for the trailer. In my opinion, this is far more important than upgraded tires and should even be used with upgraded tires. Armed with a TPMS, you will be instantly notified of a tire failure (in fact most often BEFORE failure) and should be able to react accordingly before doing any damage to your trailer. In case your not aware, TT tire blowouts can cause thousands of dollars in damage to a TT before you ever realize the tire failed. A good TPMS will run you about $200-$250 for 4 tires.

[seakayaker]

Yes, both are truly new. Not just new to me.

Thanks for the tip on TPMS. I was also wondering about those.

Can you make a recommendation? Are these easily user installed?

[youroo]

I am NO tire expert BUT you will find "Lions Head Tire" sells the Castle Rock tire,they "Had a Castle RockRV tire that had a tread like a Corvette,they looked nice but they Dropped them after a Short while! Lions Head Tire will make a Mold with "YOUR NAME" on the sidewalls if you buy a certain # of Tires,that is How so many Tire names are out there Now! Trail Tamer,Trail Twister,Trail Whatever! Same Tires just name change! Youroo!!

[ChooChooMan74]

Never heard of the Trailer Tire. I have "china bombs" on my trailer, but I also have like 2000 to 2500 pounds of margin between my axle weights and what my tires are rated for. I would be worried if my margin was close.

The GoodYear SR-A are good for fuel economy and they are cheap to put on. Other than that, they are pretty worthless. The EcoDiesel community is constantly reporting blowouts with them. I currently have 5 wheels and tires for my truck to replace the SRAs. (Note: Not my tire. This is a fellow EcoD memeber who ran over a dead animal.)

[RSchleder]

I replaced both the tires on my new Ram Laramie and my TT Wildcat MAXX within the first year with: Truck with E lead and trailer with D load!


Truck-http://www.tirebuyer.com/tires/michelin/defender-ltx-m-s/p/tv060001820

trailer--MAXXIS trailer tires

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by ChooChooMan74

Never heard of the Trailer Tire. I have "china bombs" on my trailer, but I also have like 2000 to 2500 pounds of margin between my axle weights and what my tires are rated for. I would be worried if my margin was close.

The GoodYear SR-A are good for fuel economy and they are cheap to put on. Other than that, they are pretty worthless. The EcoDiesel community is constantly reporting blowouts with them. I currently have 5 wheels and tires for my truck to replace the SRAs. (Note: Not my tire. This is a fellow EcoD memeber who ran over a dead animal.)

Not sure but am wondering how running over something in the road and having the tread and upper sidewall cut & punctured demonstrate the tire is "junk"?

Can anyone identify a standard tire that is puncture-proof?

Just because the vehicle is a truck doesn't mean it can be driven like a real HD vehicle.

Passenger tires are kind of a strong indication for the intended use for that vehicle.

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by seakayaker

Just bought a new truck (Silverado 1500) and new TT (Wildwood 27RKSS).

Below are the specs for the tires currently on each.

Are either of these crapola tires or are they ok (i.e. safe)?
If you consider that I should replace any of them now what specs should I be looking for?

TT Tires:
Castle Rock ST
ST205/75R15
Tread: 2 nylon plies & 2 steel plies
Sidewall: 2 nylon plies
50 psi
Made in China

Truck Tires:
Goodyear Wrangler SR-A
P265/65R18
51 psi
Made in Canada

Wondering about the Silverado. Did you include the HD towing package that GM offers on its trucks? What is the rated towing weight for your specific vehicle?

Some are advocating upgrading the tires to higher Load Range. While the tires could be the lowest rated component (springs, axle, brakes, shocks, sway bar frame etc) just changing the tires to real truck tires not XL passenger tires does not make the Silverado a HD truck which IMO is what people should use for towing.

[ChooChooMan74]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

Not sure but am wondering how running over something in the road and having the tread and upper sidewall cut & punctured demonstrate the tire is "junk"?

Can anyone identify a standard tire that is puncture-proof?

Just because the vehicle is a truck doesn't mean it can be driven like a real HD vehicle.

Passenger tires are kind of a strong indication for the intended use for that vehicle.

When every week, someone is blowing out one of these this P rated tires on their truck, I say it is a problem. Yes, the tires are rated at 2500lbs each. But, they are so thin and light, the littlest thing pops them. I have 44PSI in mine. I had to go over a 3 inch timber at the edge of my yard, where my trailer is parked. I stopped with the left front tire on the corner, and I swear, it was down to almost the rim. These GoodYears on the EcoD forums are like the ChinaBombs on these forums. And when people have multiple failures in 10,000 miles...

[Tireman9]

People ask for / demand better fuel economy one thing that can deliver an improvement are tires designed for smooth highway speed i.e. lighter weight tires.

Thick sidewall are bad for fuel economy, at least based on the Physics in this Universe.

If a 3" timber compressed your tire almost to the rim you were only riding on one shoulder of the tire and not the entire tread.

The tire in the picture posted shows clear evidence of some sharp object cutting the tread and upper sidewall before it got to the sidewall.

If you want truck tire durability then I suggest truck tires not passenger tires. Also be willing to accept lower mpg. This is your choice. The problem is that GM has to be competitive in the market and meed fuel economy requirements on their passenger based vehicles so their only option is to put passenger tires on their vehicles designed basically for light duty passenger service.

[KingFisher]

Originally Posted by seakayaker

Just bought a new truck (Silverado 1500) and new TT (Wildwood 27RKSS).

Below are the specs for the tires currently on each.

Are either of these crapola tires or are they ok (i.e. safe)?
If you consider that I should replace any of them now what specs should I be looking for?

TT Tires:
Castle Rock ST
ST205/75R15
Tread: 2 nylon plies & 2 steel plies
Sidewall: 2 nylon plies
50 psi
Made in China

Truck Tires:
Goodyear Wrangler SR-A
P265/65R18
51 psi
Made in Canada

I have the same truck tires. While the max pressure is 51 psi I understand it's recommended that they be ran at the door sticker pressure of 35 psi cold.

[seakayaker]

Here are the specs for my Truck and TT:

Truck (info from manual):

Silverado 1500 LTZ
5.3L V8 ECOTEC3
Trailering Package
3.42 rear axel ratio
9300lb max trailer weight (assumes 1 driver and 1 passenger
GVW rating 7000 lbs
GCWR=15000 lbs
Max tongue weight=1200 lb

TT (info from label on TT exterior):

GVWR=7720 lb

[ChooChooMan74]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

People ask for / demand better fuel economy one thing that can deliver an improvement are tires designed for smooth highway speed i.e. lighter weight tires.

Thick sidewall are bad for fuel economy, at least based on the Physics in this Universe.

If a 3" timber compressed your tire almost to the rim you were only riding on one shoulder of the tire and not the entire tread.

The tire in the picture posted shows clear evidence of some sharp object cutting the tread and upper sidewall before it got to the sidewall.

If you want truck tire durability then I suggest truck tires not passenger tires. Also be willing to accept lower mpg. This is your choice. The problem is that GM has to be competitive in the market and meed fuel economy requirements on their passenger based vehicles so their only option is to put passenger tires on their vehicles designed basically for light duty passenger service.

Dude, I have 5 Wheels and Tires on order. Replacing my P275/60R20s with LT 275/65R18 Michelin LTX M/S2. I got 16K on the truck and with my Big road trips coming up, not trusting these tires.

Sent from my Samsung Note 4 using Tapatalk.

[seakayaker]

Thanks...I just posted the weight specs for my truck and TT.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by seakayaker

Just bought a new truck (Silverado 1500) and new TT (Wildwood 27RKSS).

Below are the specs for the tires currently on each.

Are either of these crapola tires or are they ok (i.e. safe)?
If you consider that I should replace any of them now what specs should I be looking for?

TT Tires:
Castle Rock ST
ST205/75R15
Tread: 2 nylon plies & 2 steel plies
Sidewall: 2 nylon plies
50 psi
Made in China

Truck Tires:
Goodyear Wrangler SR-A
P265/65R18
51 psi
Made in Canada

I would look closely at the truck gross and load capacity as well as the total hitch weight that you really have. Those are fairly light truck tires if you were reading max cold infestation pressure.

The trailer, probably junk China bombs. But obviously FR thinks they are enough tire. Probably 3500 lb axles so again, I would look at the load rating of the tires an get an actual weight on that full rig before I went too far at highway speeds.

If weight limits are even close to max tire rating, I would be looking at heavier tires. Especially for the trailer. Max 50lbs usually means Lr C,. 65 psi is D and 80 psi would mean E.

I would feel safer, at least upgrading tt tires to D. 15 in 215s can be found in D I think and Es if they will fit can be found in 225s IF those will fit. Too much tire is usually better than the other way around. D or E still keep pretty close to max cold inflation. That said, our new TH came with just D and I will try them for awhile since we carry no toys and should be light of max rated weight. Happy towing.

[Tireman9]

RE "Highway Speeds" Don't forget that ST type tires are rated 65 MAX, Not avg or occasionally faster. Speed rating on tires is like engine redline. While you may be able to run faster you will pay with shorter life.

Even if the ST are new design with a Speed Symbol you need to remember that the major tire companies place a 75 mph max speed limit when in RV application.

Speed Symbol test comes from regular passenger tires and a tire only is required to run at the max speed for 30 minutes on a smooth drum with no potholes or road trash.
The tire is considered scrap after completing the test