Axle grease

moondog2000 · 10-25-2012, 01:03 AM

I just bought a Forest River 2013 X-Lite and it has the Ultra Lube axles and I was wondering what grease comes packed in the bearings from the factory. I want to pump some grease in some time but I don't like mixing grease. The salesman said it was napa lithium wheel bearing grease but I need to know for sure as I drive the desert in tripple digit weather.I sure don't feel like packing the bearings of a brand new trailer.I want to enjoy it for a while. Looking at another post it looks like when you pump the grease in it goes to the back of the hub or rear bearing and works its way forward and comes out up front some how? how do you get the old grease out? Is it easy and I'm asking a stupid question? Thank You Mike

Witch Doctor · 10-25-2012, 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moondog2000

I just bought a Forest River 2013 X-Lite and it has the Ultra Lube axles and I was wondering what grease comes packed in the bearings from the factory. I want to pump some grease in some time but I don't like mixing grease. The salesman said it was napa lithium wheel bearing grease but I need to know for sure as I drive the desert in tripple digit weather.I sure don't feel like packing the bearings of a brand new trailer.I want to enjoy it for a while. Looking at another post it looks like when you pump the grease in it goes to the back of the hub or rear bearing and works its way forward and comes out up front some how? how do you get the old grease out? Is it easy and I'm asking a stupid question? Thank You Mike

Your ultra lube axles are very handy. You need to meet the Mauf. specks of the grease. Napa sells a tractor bearing lube which is rated for 500 degrees it comes in a green tube, they also have a red tube that is rated at 550 degrees. Both meet the specks that are recommended. Do not use lithium. As you pump the new grease in the old will be pushed out and collected around the zerk fitting area and then just wipe it out. becareful the edges are a little sharp and can cut your finger. I had to replace 3 zerk fittings being they would not accept grease got them at napa. Just as a note my TT came about a tube and a half low. Think of the unit as U shaped with a channel going down the center. You do not have to pull the bearings out to repack. Now with that said you should inspect your bearing depending on your usage. If you pull the bearing you will need to get new seals after inspection. It is a pretty easy system but make sure to check your grease levels by adding grease now and then and you will be a happy camper....

MtnGuy · 10-25-2012, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Do not use lithium.

Huh ?? I believe Dexter, Lippert, and Al-Ko all recommend using lithium based complex grease.

Iggy · 10-25-2012, 08:24 AM

X2
red tube that is rated at 550 degrees.

Use the highest temp and don't over grease.
Don't over grease. Just 2 pumps per 500 miles.

Witch Doctor · 10-25-2012, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtnguy

Huh ?? I believe Dexter, Lippert, and Al-Ko all recommend using lithium based complex grease.

mtnguy you are correct. The manual reads "the soap type should be lithium complex or equivalent the specs which are important are USE NLG1 grade 2 with a min. drop point of 440 degrees" I do not use lithium grease except on my boat trailer, being I hope I never back my 5th in the water. I guess I'm just a farmer at heart...

w4drr · 10-25-2012, 09:39 AM

Here is a copy/paste from the AL-KO manual:

"Use a high temperature, automotive type wheel bearing grease
produced by a reputable manufacturer. The soap type should be lithium
complex or equivalent. Use NLGI Grade 2 product

with a minimum dropping point of 440F."

Bob

cbconway · 10-25-2012, 09:54 AM

I think the OP was concerned with matching the existing grease ("...I don't like mixing grease..."). Maybe a call to the axle manufacturer -- or FR -- is in order?

Len & Cheri · 10-25-2012, 10:11 AM

I think as long as you use grease that meet the requirements that w4drr posted you won't have problems.

acadianbob · 10-25-2012, 10:30 AM

I didn't worry about matching. I just bought NAPA's best wheel bearing grease and pumped it in. 25,000 miles later, all is going fine.

OldCoot · 10-25-2012, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbconway

I think the OP was concerned with matching the existing grease ("...I don't like mixing grease..."). Maybe a call to the axle manufacturer -- or FR -- is in order?

One of the requirements in the specs on grease and oil is it must be compatible with others having the same specs. Don't worry about mixing like kinds of grease or oil. The military does not use a specific brand on a specific vehicle. That's why the oils & greases are compatible.

SaskCampers · 10-25-2012, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Just as a note my TT came about a tube and a half low. Think of the unit as U shaped with a channel going down the center. You do not have to pull the bearings out to repack. Now with that said you should inspect your bearing depending on your usage. If you pull the bearing you will need to get new seals after inspection. It is a pretty easy system but make sure to check your grease levels by adding grease now and then and you will be a happy camper....

The bearings were not a tube and a half low, they were actually packed properly the way wheel bearings are supposed to be packed. You just filled a cavity full of grease that is not meant to have grease in it. All that extra grease does in there is hold the heat generated rolling down the road up against the axle instead allowing it to dissipate through the air gap to the hub the way wheel bearing have done since they were originally designed. I can tell you it is no fun trying to clean coked grease off an axle.

Witch Doctor · 10-25-2012, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSasks

The bearings were not a tube and a half low, they were actually packed properly the way wheel bearings are supposed to be packed. You just filled a cavity full of grease that is not meant to have grease in it. All that extra grease does in there is hold the heat generated rolling down the road up against the axle instead allowing it to dissipate through the air gap to the hub the way wheel bearing have done since they were originally designed. I can tell you it is no fun trying to clean coked grease off an axle.

What kinda of axle do you have, if you do not pump the grease in until it starts to come out you will not be filling the outside bearing only the inside. Am I doing this incorrect for a AL-KO rubber torsion axle? .....

my axle 4000lbs cap. x2 and is on a Rockwood 8289WS with the ultra lube system.

MtnGuy · 10-25-2012, 01:34 PM

The only way you can get grease through the outside bearing is to fill the middle cavity that John (TheSasks) refers to, if you are using the easy lube hubs. What John is saying that it is best if that cavity is not full of grease, but kept empty to dissipate some of the bearing heat. The only way to keep that empty is to hand pack the bearings.

I use the Easy-Lube hubs. Except for a broken square flange that caused that rear seal to leak due to the brake assembly coming loose , I haven't had a problem. The repair shop that rewelded the flange checked all of my rear seals, and each were letting a little grease get by. The repair shop guy does not think using the Easy-Lube hubs caused the leaking seals.....they just plumb wear out or fail due to age.

Except for the broken square flange resulting in the brake assembly coming loose, my bearings have always stayed nice and cool.....no trouble keeping my fingers on the dust caps during my check at rest stops. Now, that was a whole different ball game with the square flange broke loose.....ouch !!!

OldCoot · 10-25-2012, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSasks

The bearings were not a tube and a half low, they were actually packed properly the way wheel bearings are supposed to be packed. You just filled a cavity full of grease that is not meant to have grease in it. All that extra grease does in there is hold the heat generated rolling down the road up against the axle instead allowing it to dissipate through the air gap to the hub the way wheel bearing have done since they were originally designed. I can tell you it is no fun trying to clean coked grease off an axle.

Explain why it is designed that way and the mfgs recommend filling it. Lube is many times used to dissapate heat, not retain it. Never heard of it retaining heat on a bearing. Never too old to learn!

OldCoot · 10-25-2012, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

What kinda of axle do you have, if you do not pump the grease in until it starts to come out you will not be filling the outside bearing only the inside. Am I doing this incorrect for a AL-KO rubber torsion axle? .....

my axle 4000lbs cap. x2 and is on a Rockwood 8289WS with the ultra lube system.

You did what the mfgs recommend. Just don't get carried away. If you get too much in them, they will bleed grease out around the rubber plug and sling it all over the wheels & tires. Mess to clean. Ask me how I know this!

acadianbob · 10-25-2012, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acadianbob

I didn't worry about matching. I just bought NAPA's best wheel bearing grease and pumped it in. 25,000 miles later, all is going fine.

At 25,000 miles, I did have the dealer re-pack and inspect the bearings, adjust the brakes, and replace the seals. All was well. No signs of wear or deterioration.

moondog2000 · 10-26-2012, 12:16 AM

The reason for my asking is when I was 22 I sat out in the desert , 108 deg. with a boat with a burned bearing with nothing but Ice chest water to drink from 9am till 7pm while the owner drove back to town to get parts.I know if I meet specs on the grease it should be ok but I still just don't feel good mixing products. I'm a steam engineer at a hosp and have seen grease get funky. I just don't want to pack bearings on a brand new trailer but when I do I'll buy spare bearings and seals , carry grease and tools . When I pack bearings I also stuff the hubs with grease so these new hubs with zerks sounds like a good thing to me. I know there are two schools of thought on greasing bearings, I'v had 2 supervisors that claim too much grease will overheat the bearing and when they turned their backs I pumped it full and never burned a bearing. They both had degrees. I always carry a thermal gun with me and every pit stop I shoot the bearings to see whats going on. this last trip it was 103deg outside by needles and I had 2 hubs at 136 and 2 at 143. 7 degrees diference is not bad, probably due to to brake shoes dragging.Once again thanks everyone for all the info, you guys know your stuff and your helping me learn. Mike

MilCop4523 · 10-26-2012, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iggy

Just 2 pumps per 500 miles.

So if I hauled last year for 5,000 miles how many pumps would I need?

OldCoot · 10-26-2012, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MilCop4523

So if I hauled last year for 5,000 miles how many pumps would I need?

2 is the correct answer as 2/500 miles is a little excessive. 2/5,000 is about right IMO.

MilCop4523 · 10-26-2012, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunnnc

2 is the correct answer as 2/500 miles is a little excessive. 2/5,000 is about right IMO.

Thats what I was thinking. I'd be pumping the stuffing out of the bearings at 2 per 500.

I've used Lucas Red N Tacky for my other trailers without problems.

another product which has Xcellent reviews is JT6:

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