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Old 08-27-2014, 08:05 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by presley01 View Post
After thinking about it I am trying to figure out why the bracket has the slot instead of a hole.

The slot is there to accommodate manufacturing tolerances....
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:31 AM   #22
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here is a stupid question if you lower that won't that lower your frame to which would cause a wheel well Clearance, which should be 3" or 3 fingers as someone put it and had to add a lift kit? My unit go's to a custom trailer builder in the AM to have my toppers installed, I will have him look at mine, and get back to you Turbo. I can't crawl under mine. They build units from the frame up, I can't even afford one of his more then what I paid for my house a couple of X's....
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:07 AM   #23
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Moderator Alert.... Action Needed....

Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
I just spoke with leo and he's concerned and on it immediately.
I sent him your pic presley.

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I wish to point out to the Moderators and everyone else on this forum of the actions of the one going by name of "TURBS".....

He has stepped forward and talked directly to people that can make change. Not just for changes sake, but for safeties sake. TURBS has asked for pictures of any effected units to pass forward.


Thank-you TURBS
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:15 AM   #24
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Since I've posted yesterday, leo and I have exchanged a few emails.
I've seen him add others to the email so word is moving around.
As stated if you've ever had this issue and have taken pictures, please add them to this thread.

also you should loom and see if this problem may exist currently and you don't know it.

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Old 08-27-2014, 09:41 AM   #25
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I had mine fixed at the rally, they looked just like the provided pics. Leo could check the repair tags and hopefully the tech's made a comment on my repair request.
I should have said mine was corrected at the rally, I doubt that it is fixed since they just loosened the bolts and allowed the frame to drop back onto the brackets and retightened. I am keeping my eye on it cause I expect my next sharp turn will cause the problem to return.
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Old 08-27-2014, 04:51 PM   #26
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Got over to where we have the RV stored and started to work on it, I took a few more pictures. I used my torque wrench trying to figure what they had the original bolts torqued to, at about 150 '# is about where the bolts would start to move so I figure that is the torque they are set to. Looks like they are 5/8" bolts with 15/16" hex heads, not sure if they are grade 8 or not, they have a fine thread. I loosened the bolts and used my 6 ton bottle jack to push the brackets back up against the 2"x 6" channel and retightened the bolts to 160 '#. Drilled holes in one bracket and gave up for today. 99 deg out there, got to hot, this drilling and adding bolts is going to be a slow process.
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:06 PM   #27
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I just looked up the torque specs for a grade 8 5/8" bolt and it's calling for 212 '#, is that right. If that is correct I'll have to put a 2' cheater pipe on my torque wrench and re-torque all the bolts. Not the easiest place to work and hard to get leverage on your back. Does anybody know the specs on these bolts.
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:53 PM   #28
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Did that lower your clearance to your wheel wells?
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:15 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Did that lower your clearance to your wheel wells?
No it did not. I measured the clearance, there is 3 1/2" of clearance from the top of the tire before it touches anything on the camper. The clearance between the tires went from 2 1/2" to 3".
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Old 08-28-2014, 02:09 PM   #30
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Well now I'm really confused, like I said I had to take my trailer in today and get two new toppers installed. Had him check he said that "He did not see a problem their is no slot and it's doubled bolted". Also asked If shocks would help me being I have torsion axle's" he said no unless they are spring" Now i'm really confused? Turbo have you heard anything back from Leo yet? The Old Man tells me I need shocks? I also don't still understand the space in between, hate to be stupid but just can't rap my little mind I have left around both problems mentioned. I have never been a wrench type person. Lucky I can get up in the morning,,,
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Old 08-28-2014, 02:28 PM   #31
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Well I did talk to leo today.

He told me they allow up to 1/4" of gap between the torsion bracket and the frame bracket.
I'm not sure if that's good news or bad.

Here's the kicker.
He also said the axle shouldn't be bolted to the bottom of the frame bracket or shouldn't be.

I drove over to a forest river dealer at lunch and looked at two used flagstaff ultra light 5er ' s and both were up tight.

So I'm not sure.

I believe he gave me a contact for you guys to call with any questions.

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Old 08-28-2014, 03:09 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
Well I did talk to leo today.

He told me they allow up to 1/4" of gap between the torsion bracket and the frame bracket.
I'm not sure if that's good news or bad.

Here's the kicker.
He also said the axle shouldn't be bolted to the bottom of the frame bracket or shouldn't be.

I drove over to a forest river dealer at lunch and looked at two used flagstaff ultra light 5er ' s and both were up tight.

So I'm not sure.

I believe he gave me a contact for you guys to call with any questions.

TURBS

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I didn't measure the gaps before I closed them up. I think the front curb side looked like about 3/4", now I don't know what to think, bolt it up or not?? Any idea what the factory bolts on those brackets should be torqued at.
1st question, "torque"
2nd question, why would they want the bracket to move.
Maybe OldCoot can chime in with his thoughts on this, maybe he knows the torque specs on the factory bolts
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:57 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by presley01 View Post
Anyone with a 5er that has the torsion axels should crawl under there and have a look at the mounts. If they can't do it someone they trust should, showing them the pictures that are on line. This is one heck of a safety hazard. Not sure if the TT's have this same setup but a look at those wouldn't hurt.
It's not only 5er's, it's anything with torsion axles. I had the same problem with my 08 Flagstaff 831RLSS.
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:37 PM   #34
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I understand tolerances, but I don't understand the concept of allowing mounting brackets to move during use, both axles incurred movement. All 4 brackets were touching the frame at one end, but gapped at the other and it was more than 1/4 inch.
I'm not sure about torflex axles, but It may affect wheel alignment if the gap on the axle brackets were not the same amount on each end of the axle.
They might not want to admit it, but I think they have a design problem. I will keep an eye on my torflex axle mounting and do a better job of documenting it when it reoccurs.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:03 PM   #35
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If the brackets are suppose to move why don't they settle back down on the channel when everything straightens out. I still don't know what the torque should be on the factory bolts or if I should bolt the brackets to the channel.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:15 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
...Here's the kicker.He also said the axle shouldn't be bolted to the bottom of the frame bracket or shouldn't be. TURBS
Would love to have a discussion with Leo on this! PM me his phone no. Please.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:23 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by presley01 View Post
I didn't measure the gaps before I closed them up. I think the front curb side looked like about 3/4", now I don't know what to think, bolt it up or not?? Any idea what the factory bolts on those brackets should be torqued at.
1st question, "torque"
2nd question, why would they want the bracket to move.
Maybe OldCoot can chime in with his thoughts on this, maybe he knows the torque specs on the factory bolts
I want to debate it with "Leo" as I think he and his "experts" are dead wrong. It is a design & practical impossibility to hold torque with bolts in slots. Here is where "Common Sense" is certainly not common.

As for torque, here is a chart. Tighten according to the bolt size and grade of bolt.
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File Type: docx Bolt torque.docx (13.8 KB, 44 views)
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:29 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Well now I'm really confused, like I said I had to take my trailer in today and get two new toppers installed. Had him check he said that "He did not see a problem their is no slot and it's doubled bolted". Also asked If shocks would help me being I have torsion axle's" he said no unless they are spring" Now i'm really confused? Turbo have you heard anything back from Leo yet? The Old Man tells me I need shocks? I also don't still understand the space in between, hate to be stupid but just can't rap my little mind I have left around both problems mentioned. I have never been a wrench type person. Lucky I can get up in the morning,,,
Double nutting doesn't do anything for holding torque on bolts thru slots. I don't care whether you use shocks or not or whether your tech recommends them or not. As far as the trailer, it doesn't know or care what the suspension is as the shocks are only to control the rebound of the suspension regardless of the type.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:36 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
I want to debate it with "Leo" as I think he and his "experts" are dead wrong. It is a design & practical impossibility to hold torque with bolts in slots. Here is where "Common Sense" is certainly not common.

As for torque, here is a chart. Tighten according to the bolt size and grade of bolt.
Thank you for the torque doc I too found one on the internet. These bolts and nuts have a fine thread, would that make a difference. Before I broke them loose I was able to move them at about 150 ft Pounds. After moving the brackets back against the channel I torqued the bolts to to 160 '#. I have one of the brackets drilled, three more to go. Looks to me like they should be solid and not able to float, am I wrong?
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:24 PM   #40
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They should not float. Thread type should not make any difference to the torque.
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