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Old 08-28-2014, 09:01 PM   #41
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I just looked at mine (nice and snug up against the frame btw, but its only 4 months old and has gone only about 600km on pretty good roads) but it stands to reason that a gap could open up on the front end of the axle bracket. See if my reasoning makes any sense...

The axle bracket has two bolts, equally spaced fore and aft of the main axle tube. However, on the Torflex axle, the trailing torque arm that holds the wheel hub places the actual wheel axle just about directly under the rear bolt. That would mean that all the static load - nearly 2000lbs - is on the back end of the bracket and there's virtually none on the front. If the wheel axle was behind that back bolt, the front would actually be under tension when sitting still - the torque of the trailing arm would be trying to slam the front into the ground. I thought I saw a picture recently where the front bolt was gone and it looked like this had happened - maybe somebody could find that again.

Perhaps there is some dynamic force, such as the wheel hitting the upslope of a pothole, resulting in the torque of the wheel acting on the main axle actually to trying to pull that gap open if the bolt is able to slip in the slot.

Is there any common thread among those that have the issue, such as high mileage on rough roads? Heavy braking would also greatly increase the torque.

Anyway, now that I've heard of the potential problem and know what mine look like in 'factory' position, I can make a visual check part of my post trip routine.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:39 PM   #42
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Just ran out and checked mine. The front part of the bracket (on both sides for both front and rear) has a 1/4" gap while the rear is set against the frame. Sounds like according to what "Leo" at Forest River said this is in the range of acceptable..., but now it is going to bother me and make me wonder what purpose those slot plays if not to allow the axle to move. If it wasn't supposed to move they would have just put a bolt through a hole as cutting a slot seems more time consuming and costly when it isn't needed.

Is the slot designed so FR can align everything at the factory? If so, it seems as if after the alignment is set, OC's suggestion of another hole and bolt would be needed to keep everything in place.
BUT,
Would loosening the slotted bolt and putting the bracket flush against the frame then re bolting everything together change this factory alignment? I don't want to screw anything up if mine "needed" that 1/4" gap at the front to have everything aligned correctly.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:53 PM   #43
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Slots in this case are for the manufacturing tolerances, it has nothing to do with axle alignment. It doesn't take anymore time to punch a slot than it does a hole. The slots in this case are used for misalignment in the brackets themselves in assembly and not wheel alignment. The slots in this case only allow vertical adjustment which does not do anything for trailer-axle-wheel alignment.
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:14 PM   #44
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You should be able to see if the axles have rotated from the factory by looking for any movement of the bolts in the slots. On both of mine, there was evidence of both the front and rear axles had moved from when they were painted and left tattle tale signs of rust.
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:20 PM   #45
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Installed bolts today. Also found one bolt not very tight but did not look like their had been any actual slippage yet. I guess the gap was left there at the factory. Gone now!!
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:28 PM   #46
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There is definitely evidence that the bracket slipped from the top of the slots to the bottom. Another reason why I question the torque of those bolts. I think I'll continue drilling and bolting. Do you think I voided my warranty? O.C, I sure would like to know how the conversation goes with you and Leo.
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:52 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by presley01 View Post
There is definitely evidence that the bracket slipped from the top of the slots to the bottom. Another reason why I question the torque of those bolts. I think I'll continue drilling and bolting. Do you think I voided my warranty? O.C, I sure would like to know how the conversation goes with you and Leo.
Got no pm from FT Turbs with Leo's number, so it will not happen. I doubt Leo will call me unless FT Turbs gave him my number. I sure won't loose any sleep over it one way or the other. I fixed mine and know for sure my axles will stay in place, which is something the folks without the vertical bolts can't say.
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Old 09-01-2014, 01:41 PM   #48
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Finely finished drilling the holes for the vertical bolts through the 2"X 6" channel and bolted the mounts to the channel. Ended up using grade 8-7/16" X 1 1/4" bolts torqued to 70 ft #. Re-torqued all the horizontal 5/8" bolts to 170 ft #. I don't think those mounts will be moving any time soon. If and when we trade RV's with a setup like these axels I will pay someone to drill and bolt those brackets.
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Old 09-01-2014, 01:53 PM   #49
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Finely finished drilling the holes for the vertical bolts through the 2"X 6" channel and bolted the mounts to the channel. Ended up using grade 8-7/16" X 1 1/4" bolts torqued to 70 ft #. Re-torqued all the horizontal 5/8" bolts to 170 ft #. I don't think those mounts will be moving any time soon. If and when we trade RV's with a setup like these axels I will pay someone to drill and bolt those brackets.

X2 on getting it done before purchasing another one with Axles like these. will have dealer do as part of agreement to buy. Drilling not bad but torquing under the trailer for an old man not easy when back is worn out.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:29 AM   #50
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Back and shoulders pretty sore this morning but the soreness will be gone in a day or two. I have the satisfaction of knowing what and how the work was done on those axel mounts.
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