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Old 08-14-2016, 07:50 PM   #1
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Bearing end play?

How much top to bottom play is permitted on a properly adjusted set of wheel bearings?
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Old 08-14-2016, 07:59 PM   #2
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None, it should be adjusted to the first hole in the castle nut to remove all play.
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Old 08-15-2016, 07:43 AM   #3
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I've always tightened the nut to seat the bearing while spinning the hub, once it starts to bind, I then back the nut off (no binding). Then tighten the nut with your hand to the washer, back off to the first opening in the castle nut and insert pin. Should give you about .001 to .005 end play.
No play, the bearings will burn up, too much play and the bearings will destroy themselves.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:41 AM   #4
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It depends on the axle and hub mfgrs. instructions. For example, I just installed new Tie-down hubs preassembled with races, bearings and pre-greased, and the instructions were to tighten the castle nut with a pair of pliers as far as one could do so, while turning the hub, "which is about 50lbs." Then, back off one land while not turning the hub until the cotter pin or tab could be affixed.

As you can see, it's not very scientific as Tie-down did not specify the length of the plier handles or the strength in my arms, LOL. Regardless, after following their instructions, I was able to detect a very slight deflection when I tried to wobble the wheels, which is exactly what you want.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:46 AM   #5
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Looking at a Dexter manual, that is exactly what they say....but they actually give a wrench length.

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut
back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the
previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly
slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50
lbs.-ft. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not
rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.
4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation
lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin (or
locking tang in the case of E-Z Lube™).

Castellation....so that is what they call the slots (holes) in the castle nut. Never knew that.
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