Best disc brake pads for heavy towing

[OKI Marine]

What recommendations are there for best front brake pads for heavy towing on Silverado 3500HD? I have been using Power Stop brake pads and Cross drilled and slotted rotors. I have never felt as though I have adequate stopping power while towing 5th wheel. If I have to stand on the brakes once then it seems like I have weak pedal and fade. I generally change the brake pads every year and rotors every other. Parts all look nearly new with little wear. Is there something I'm missing here or is anyone else experiencing this same issue

[dieselguy]

You must have an issue with your trailer brakes (grease on shoes / misadjusted) or your brake controller setup... you do not want to be dependent on the tow vehicle to get it all stopped. Many like to feel a slight tug from the trailer when the brakes are applied. I swapped out my electric drum brakes for disk and am completely satisfied with the results. In a normal situation I can fairly easily stop the whole setup with the manual brake control lever. In 20 years of pulling fivers, I've never had anything but OEM brakes and have never felt the need to upgrade.

[OKI Marine]

I have new axles on the camper. May have started issue before swapping out the axles. I just want to feel confident that I can get things stopped in a hurry if the need presents itself. I drove the truck today and wasn't pulling anything and felt like stopping power was lacking. It's irritating to change out pads and rotors and see little to no wear on them.

[SeaDog]

If you are not wearing your pad or rotor and it seems like you are not getting the stopping power you should (without the trailer attached) then take you rig into a dealer and have them run a break pressure check. It may be your power assist is not operating properly.

[dieselguy]

New axles don't mean anything in today's world of sub par mechanics, but as you said ... you have weak brakes not towing anything. Do you burnish in your brake pads when you change them? If the rotors look glazed, you might have to have them turned. Read up on burnishing in new pads. Take truck down the road with new pads and do series of 40 - 45 mph stops and let things cool in between like you'll read about. Does your brake power booster work on the truck to start with would be another question to answer.

[OKI Marine]

Originally Posted by SeaDog

If you are not wearing your pad or rotor and it seems like you are not getting the stopping power you should (without the trailer attached) then take you rig into a dealer and have them run a break pressure check. It may be your power assist is not operating properly.

The dealer has installed the brakes and rotors. I've even taken it there and had them bleed the brakes. They say everything is working fine.

[OKI Marine]

Originally Posted by dieselguy

New axles don't mean anything in today's world of sub par mechanics, but as you said ... you have weak brakes not towing anything. Do you burnish in your brake pads when you change them? If the rotors look glazed, you might have to have them turned. Read up on burnishing in new pads. Take truck down the road with new pads and do series of 40 - 45 mph stops and let things cool in between like you'll read about. Does your brake power booster work on the truck to start with would be another question to answer.

I've followed the break in instructions for the power stop brakes and rotors. Haven't checked anything else. I've had it to the dealer several times and they say all is good.

[OKI Marine]

How do I check the power booster?

[M109Rrider]

Done alot of research on this. I've found most claim that cross drilled and slotted rotors are mostly just cosmetic and gimmicky with modern braking materials. They claim they will actually decrease stopping power (less surface area). Once upon a time, a way to release gas build up between the pad and rotor was desirable, but no longer necessary with modern brake lining material. I also read to use semi metallic over ceramic pads. Although ceramic lasts longer and causes less dust, it is too hard and will wear the rotors quicker and offer less stopping power due to thier hardness . I've read this in numerous places on the interwebs so it has to be true. I replaced mine last year with NAPA premium rotors and pads. Seems to feel better than stock with 150k miles on them.

[dieselguy]

Have they run a scan for the ABS brake system? It could be the culprit. ABS trouble generally doesn't show up with the dash warning light and has to be scanned separately.

Power booster ... turn engine off, pull vacuum line out of socket ... there should be considerable amount of air that rushes in to the housing. Not scientific, but shows if bladder is blown or if you have bad vac line.

[M109Rrider]

Would he have hyroboost (uses power steering pump, not vacuum)?

[TitanMike]

Heavy Duty Brake Pads are most often Semi-Metallic in construction and also tend to wear rotors faster than the more favored organic pads. (no more asbestos). Ceramic pads are also used.

Semi-Metallic pads actually grip more as they heat up. Used to be noisy but today their compounds have improved immensely.


Here's a nice write up that explains the pro's and cons of the different types.

What Are The Best Brake Pads? Ceramic vs. Semi-Metallic

Once you decide on the type that fits your needs best, then stick with the Name Brands like Bendix, Raybestos, etc rather than the Private Label Brands (promoted by Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, etc.

"Made By" and labeled with a stores House Brand Name doesn't always equate to the same quality level as what manufacturers put in boxes with their own name on it. Especially their premium product..

To the OP, have you changed the brakes pads/linings from what came with the truck? Over the years I've found that the Manufacturers are putting pretty decent, good stopping, brake materials on the vehicles at the factory and replacing with the same usually works best.


In closing, I'd check the trailer brakes before tackling the truck brakes. When you operate the lever on the controller at slow speed, the trailer brakes should be able to bring the entire rig to a positive stop. If not, check wiring to see if you are feeding the controller with a large enough wire. Low current can kill braking effort.

[NMWildcat]

Titanmike hit and the nail on the head. Original brakes on Chevy HD trucks are among the best. Original pads can last 150k to 200k miles. Mine have 150k and are still over 40%. One thing I have read on every truck forum is to be sure and replace pads with OEM. Those that didn't report shortness of pad life and less braking power.

If you have replaced with oem pads, then you have another problem with the truck, controller, or the trailer. I'm betting on trailer brake performance.

Check out duraxmaxforum.com

[uhduh camping]

Might even consider changing out brake fluid. Moisture content gets to high you will lose braking pressure. You could also look into replace flex hoses at the wheels.

[babock]

Flex hoses don't affect stopping power.

Personally, I would ditch the powerstop brakes and rotors and go with regular rotor blanks.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by babock

Flex hoses don't affect stopping power.

Personally, I would ditch the powerstop brakes and rotors and go with regular rotor blanks.

Bad brake hoses and "wet" brake fluid can both lead to spongy pedals. When the fluid gets hot any water will turn to steam and steam is like air, it can be compressed. Worn or rotten hoses can "balloon" out causing spongy brakes although usually not for long. They start to leak quickly if that's happening.

As for brake fluid, always use the correct fluid as spec'd by the Mfr. as indicated by a "DOT number". Disc brake calipers expose the fluid to a lot of heat, unlike the old drum brake systems where the wheel cylinder was not in direct contact with the hot area of the shoe.

[babock]

Some people have the idea that changing to braided stainless brake hoses will make them stop faster. That's not the case. Flex hoses that are in good shape work just as well as stainless brake hoses.

[BandJCarm]

You say while towing......... I didn't like the 'feel' either. But I added hydraulic disc brakes to the Trailer, left the truck alone. Problem solved.

[GreenImp]

I've read through this thread and cant help but wonder if the OP is simply expecting more stopping power than is possible/normal from his setup. I didn't see any mention of what trailer he's pulling but his profile lists a 40' 14000lb trailer. That's a LOT of weight to bring to a stop. I suggest that he get a second opinion from a person with experience towing similar large size rigs. There may in fact be absolutely nothing wrong with his current setup. If this is the case, then discs on the trailer would be an excellent choice.

I also recommend returning to factory rotors and pads on the truck as mentioned above. They are second to none (even without holes or slots... !!).

[OKI Marine]

Originally Posted by GreenImp

I've read through this thread and cant help but wonder if the OP is simply expecting more stopping power than is possible/normal from his setup. I didn't see any mention of what trailer he's pulling but his profile lists a 40' 14000lb trailer. That's a LOT of weight to bring to a stop. I suggest that he get a second opinion from a person with experience towing similar large size rigs. There may in fact be absolutely nothing wrong with his current setup. If this is the case, then discs on the trailer would be an excellent choice.

I also recommend returning to factory rotors and pads on the truck as mentioned above. They are second to none (even without holes or slots... !!).

Thank you and everyone for their thoughts. I am expecting more stopping power. Yes the 5th wheel is about 14000 lbs and it is a lot of weight to stop. I have checked into disc brakes on the camper. It is quite expensive. Yes on returning to original pads and rotors.