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Old 07-24-2016, 04:46 PM   #11
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I don't pretend to know the answer to any of this but here is my experience... My TV is a 2016 F-250 with the integrated brake controller running the binders on our Flagstaff 8528IKWS. We've had this rig for about 8 months and almost 5,000 miles of travel throughout the SE USA. Florida flat to Blue Ridge mountains, highway, city, etc.

I initially tried to adjust the gain settings like my previous experience with a Tekonsha P3 to lock the trailer wheels at 20mph but it never happened. I settled on a "that feels about right" braking result after some trial and adjust stops. That means to me that the rig stops the same as just the truck when using equal pedal pressure.

This has worked fine for me but left me with a bit of self-doubt until I got well tested on our last trip. I follow other vehicles at a conservative distance but had a yahoo slam on brakes to make a turn off a 2 lane highway with all of us traveling about 50mph. I also slammed brakes and the trailer tires made a quick "chirp" followed by the usual well-balanced braking of the rig. This confirms to me that the gains are good and that the Ford controller is doing a great job of regulating the braking signal based on speed and g forces of the deceleration. I no longer am concerned that I can't lock the trailer wheels at slow speed.
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:59 AM   #12
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After checking the voltage I found one wheel low.

The factory likes to use those little block things to splice wires together, I don't know the correct name for them but they just suck. You know the ones that cut the wire in half and have the metal bar across both wires.

I replaced those and immediately the voltage at the wheel went up.
After adjusting my brakes I had to turn the controller down.
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Old 07-25-2016, 02:22 PM   #13
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Okay. I'll put the dealer voodoo doll away for now. Thanks for so many great insights and helps! At this point I will assume that things are fine. I'll do the Lowe's parking lot thing and see what happens. I also realized that I'm now pulling a 4000# TT with a 7000# TV and not pulling the 14000# Cedar Creek. Guess I shouldn't expect the TT to do what the fiver does when I use the controller. Also will read-up on the OEM controller. I knew it "ramped" up the brake voltage but didn't realize it also looks at hydraulic pressure, etc. Thanks to all...hope things "settle in"!
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Old 07-25-2016, 02:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigBean7672 View Post
After checking the voltage I found one wheel low.

The factory likes to use those little block things to splice wires together, I don't know the correct name for them but they just suck. You know the ones that cut the wire in half and have the metal bar across both wires.

I replaced those and immediately the voltage at the wheel went up.
After adjusting my brakes I had to turn the controller down.
I think the proper term is "Scotchlok" connectors, but lots of people call them
"suitcase" connectors (because they close like a suitcase).

Yeah, they're junk. Soldering is best, butt connectors is next. I think wrapping them and using electrical tape would be next. THEN suitcase connectors!
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