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Old 06-11-2013, 10:09 AM   #1
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Brakes - What do I check next

I know the brakes worked when we had the trailer out last month. This weekend I sanitized the water system and took the trailer to a flat spot to adjust the WD hitch.

I also wanted to test the manual control on the brakes to set the level. I tried the manual and nothing then I hit the TV brakes and heard or saw nothing, even on gravel with the control maxed out.

Last night I verified my TV is putting power to the TT. I verified when I hit the brakes the TT brake lights work and I get power to the Elect. Brake pin on the TV.

I left the brakes on and walked back to the TT and did not hear a thing? Should I?

I checked the fuse box inside the TT and nothing looks blown.

Now what? I don't have a bottle jack that can lift the trailer. Other options?
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:15 AM   #2
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You need to check to see if you have 12V power at the brake magnets. I don't think there's an in-line fuse between the camper plug and the brake magnets. You might have a broken brake wire before it splits to feed each brake magnet.

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Old 06-11-2013, 10:17 AM   #3
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As strictly a check, pull the emergency break away pin out and listen for a click at the brakes. Plug the pin back in. Do not leave it out for over a minute or two. If you hear a click, you know the brakes are engaging. Then you need to have someone step on the brakes and check to see if you're getting voltage at the Bargman receptacle. You also need to verify the camper battery is full charged.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:16 AM   #4
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If you can get someone to hold the brake pedal down and listen at each trailer wheel, you should hear a hum coming from each wheel.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:36 AM   #5
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DDC - I used a piece of wood and the power seat to press the brake pedal and hold it down. Light on control came on, brake lights on, no humming.

I know from the last trip I could hear the brakes release and got nothing there either.

Do I go with the voltmeter (does a contact-less one work) to check the wires outside the hubs or do I need to get a bottle jack so I can take the tires off and check inside?
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:38 AM   #6
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DDC - I used a piece of wood and the power seat to press the brake pedal and hold it down. Light on control came on, brake lights on, no humming.

I know from the last trip I could hear the brakes release and got nothing there either.

Do I go with the voltmeter (does a contact-less one work) to check the wires outside the hubs or do I need to get a bottle jack so I can take the tires off and check inside?
Check for voltage at the truck plug first.
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:52 AM   #7
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Test for power at the plug on the TV first. A test light just shows power but a volt meter will show how much. You should have 12v or better.

If the plug has power the check the TT. side. Pick a spot a few feet down the line or where ever it splits to both axles. Make sure your checking the "hot" wire or the one that should have power. An additional check would be to make sure all your ground wires are clean and good on both your TT. and TV. Check the ground and hot at the battery on your TT.

Depending on who installed your brake controller they may have stuck a fuse in line, check it as well. My suggestion is to start as close as you can to the output of the brake controller in your TV and work your way back. Think of power (12volt) as water in a pipe and it needs to get to the other end, somewhere there is a break in the pipe.

Hope this helps..!
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puff View Post
Test for power at the plug on the TV first. A test light just shows power but a volt meter will show how much. You should have 12v or better.

If the plug has power the check the TT. side. Pick a spot a few feet down the line or where ever it splits to both axles. Make sure your checking the "hot" wire or the one that should have power. An additional check would be to make sure all your ground wires are clean and good on both your TT. and TV. Check the ground and hot at the battery on your TT.

Depending on who installed your brake controller they may have stuck a fuse in line, check it as well. My suggestion is to start as close as you can to the output of the brake controller in your TV and work your way back. Think of power (12volt) as water in a pipe and it needs to get to the other end, somewhere there is a break in the pipe.

Hope this helps..!
A year ago I suddenly had to start changing the voltage that went to the trailer brakes through the controller to get the same stopping power. Long story short, I had an add on 7 pin connector and box that was wired into my van. Guess what was going on inside the box? The wires had started to corrode and the one for the brakes was the worst, just hanging on by a thread...rr...wire! To add insult, the box came from the factory without the connections soldered... They're soldered now!

Hope this helps?
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Old 06-12-2013, 12:10 AM   #9
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I also put a coating of dielectric grease on my connections with screws or terminals...helps to keep things corrosion free.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:53 AM   #10
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I picked up the HF cheap volt meter. I have 12.48 volts on pin at back of truck when truck was off. Jumped to 14+ when I started it.

So know I'm thinking I need to check the wires at the axles but to do that I'll have to take them out of the connectors or do I take the wheel and hub off and check there?
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