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Old 08-19-2016, 07:12 AM   #21
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Wheel/tire temp.

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Originally Posted by Epat View Post
Here in Goshen at the FROG rally and the beginning of a 10,000 mile trip. Just bought an IR thermometer and plan to shot the tires and wheels at each stop.

Trying to stay away from having to post another horror story.
Attevery stop I walk around and touch each wheel and tire. None should be too hot to touch. Fast and easy.
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Old 09-03-2016, 02:40 PM   #22
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Serviced mine this week

So inspired by tire failure stories and bearing failure stories, such as this one I went ahead and upped my tire load range from C to D and snooped around the internet to search out some American made Timken bearings to replace the Chinese bearings that came on my TT.

Took my wheels and tires into a local tire store who mounted them and assured me they were inflated to the sidewall pressure of 65 PSI.

While I had the TT jacked up decided it's time for the bearing change out. I followed the instructions in the Dexter axle manual and removed the old seal, bearings and races. I was impressed with the amount of grease and how well everything looked after a year and 8K miles or so. My TT has the E-Z lube system but I wanted to do the whole enchilada.

Anyway, I was very careful to keep everything sanitary and got the new bearings packed and installed on wheel number one. Took me about 2 hours and a roll of blue shop towels. Just for grins, I then injected grease through the E-Z lube fitting and was happy to see new grease coming out fairly quickly.

So, on the remaining 3 wheels, I just used my grease gun to purge the old grease via the E-Z lube fitting. Finished the remaining 3 wheels in about an hour.

This morning I decided to give the rig a hundred mile shakedown run. First thing... checked the tire pressure.... dang if all were right at exactly 45 PSI so pumped them up to the 65PSI, then rechecked the torque on the lug nuts.

Then 50 miles out the interstate and 50 back. I stopped a couple times to check wheel/tire temps and lug nut torque. Everything checked out A-Okay.

Also happy to report the TT seems to pull even better with the new tires. Virtually zero sway when being passed by the big rigs as I plod along at 63 MPH.

So, I am thinking I will not install the new bearings on the other wheels for at least 2 more years (unless I feel things running too warm). Just go with purging the old grease. I will, of course, carry the replacement bearings and seals plus tools when we're on the road.

BTW this is not nearly so messy if you remove the wheel before doing the greasing, replace w/o the center trim cover and use just a couple lug nuts finger tight. Then grease. Little more work lots less mess.
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Old 09-03-2016, 03:14 PM   #23
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IR therometer

I have been using a IR thermometer for 3 years now. At each rest stop & fuel stop I check all tires and bearing hub temp. The IR device has caught three Good Year marathons before a blowout. The temperature will rise in the tire about 10-15 degrees above the other tires when it starts to break down. The IR device can be purchased at Harbor Freight or Ryobi also makes one. I just recently purchased a factory refurbished at a tool outlet store that sells Ryobi tools for $20.00 with a 1 Year warranty.

I no longer use GOOD YEAR Marathon tires. I switched to Maxxis.
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Old 09-03-2016, 05:16 PM   #24
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I purchased the Harbor Freight IR thermometer on sale for $20. Seems to be just fine. I am currently shopping for a tire pressure monitor. I don't like the displays on the TST and Eeztire systems so I'm thinking of going with a Tire Minder TM 55c-B which displays all four tire pressures simultaneously.

Also, as a follow up on my bearing problems, the shop replaced all of the bearings with new ones because they said two of the other bearings were going bad. Then, two days later I decide to adjust the brakes and find the bearings to be so tight that the wheels would barely spin, one would only go 3/4 of the way around before stopping. I found all of the axle nuts to be tightened and hadn't been backed off and then barely tightened like you are supposed to do. I adjusted them properly so they spin freely now. So my hypothesis is that they over tightened the bearings when they repacked them last April and that is what caused the bearing failure.
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Old 09-03-2016, 07:34 PM   #25
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Your story is a great example of why we RV owners need to get educated on doing some of these tasks ourselves. Packing bearings is kind of an old school thing that many techs may only do occasionally and maybe were never mentored by an old guy on how to do it right.

Another issue that should concern everyone who takes their TT in for this service is how do they jack up the trailer for the service. I'm pretty sure that most garages just put a jack under the axle and lift it up... a big no no for sure.

Anyway... please find a new mechanic... sounds like you need to get away from the one you have.

Happy Camping
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Old 09-03-2016, 08:22 PM   #26
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As another poster said "Packing wheel bearings is really a very delicate process" and your experience is more proof to support his claim. Here is what I take from it:
Too tight bearing adjustment equals very early failure... too loose by a bit will cause premature failure but not nearly as quick.

Here is what my Dexter manual says after packing or replacing bearings:

1. after reassembly... rotate hub assembly and tighten nut to about 50 ft/lbs

2. loosen spindle nut to remove torque... do not rotate hub

3.finger tighten nut until snug. align retainer and snap on. once in place retainer/nut assembly should be free to move slightly

4. if too tight remove retainer and back off 1/12 turn and reinstall retainer. nut should now move freely

5. reinstall grease cap

So, the experts are very clear... do not over tighten!
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Old 09-06-2016, 04:07 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raytwntrvlr View Post
...Too tight bearing adjustment equals very early failure... too loose by a bit will cause premature failure but not nearly as quick.

Here is what my Dexter manual says after packing or replacing bearings:

1. after reassembly... rotate hub assembly and tighten nut to about 50 ft/lbs

2. loosen spindle nut to remove torque... do not rotate hub

3.finger tighten nut until snug. align retainer and snap on. once in place retainer/nut assembly should be free to move slightly

4. if too tight remove retainer and back off 1/12 turn and reinstall retainer. nut should now move freely

5. reinstall grease cap

So, the experts are very clear... do not over tighten!
Important parts: the initial tightening aligns/seats the bearing races and eliminates any grease between race and roller. Cannot roll or seat is lost. Finger tight eliminates any possibility of torque.
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Old 09-06-2016, 04:19 PM   #28
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Couldn't have been said any better.
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:46 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevejahr View Post
Important parts: the initial tightening aligns/seats the bearing races and eliminates any grease between race and roller. Cannot roll or seat is lost. Finger tight eliminates any possibility of torque.
So, you don't want any grease between the race and roller? What does "Cannot roll or seat is lost" mean?
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:03 PM   #30
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That is correct only when seating the bearings. Once you torque the nut and back it off, if you spin the wheel the bearing races may move and you'll introduce grease between the rollers and races, thereby increasing the clearance and affecting the final set. That's why you don't want to move the wheel once you back the nut off until after you re-set the nut per the instructions.
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