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Old 09-03-2013, 11:42 PM   #1
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Cool Correct way to jack up axle for tire removal

Hello,
So we were out campin this weekend and I thought I'd read up on my new 2013 rockwood 8286ws fiver. I could not find any information on the correct positioning of where to put the tire jack on the axle for tire removal.
(didn't come with jack) which I found odd?

Also When I was looking under the trailers before I purchased mine I had noticed that the front axle had a slight bend in the center of the 2x2 square tubing. I thought this was normal because I looked at one 8289ws at a different dealership that looked the same so I assumed it was normal anyway?

I haven't had a flat yet but it would be nice to have that info in the manual and a flipping jack to do so. what the heck ?
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:05 AM   #2
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jack

you don't want to rely on something that would come from the manufacture.
You need to set yourself up with a good heavy duty jack {bottle or even floor} a good cross bar and it doesn't hurt to have two spares. You should practice changing a tire before you start your trips. You don't want to be figuring this out with cars zooming past you 80 mph
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:03 AM   #3
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Thank you for the info! I will buy a good bottle jack. Would you know where I would place the jack exactly? Would I lift in the middle raising both tires? I just don't want to wreck something by doing it wrong. I'm also concerned about the bend in the front cross beam.. I hope it's normal? I don't have excess to the unit or I'd take a picture , the back axle is straight as an arrow I don't know why the front would be arched in the center
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:19 AM   #4
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I've been where you were- not having any idea where and how to jack my camper up. To make matters worse, I had never changed a car tire before attacking my camper like a terrified mad man. I did what you did and posted here:
Jacking up MY fiver (sigh, again)

Let me summarize 11 pages for you:
1) If you have torsion axles, never jack the camper up by the axles. (This had no debate and everyone agreed.)

But, for #2 and #3 - I seemed to get a pretty even split:
2) Never jack on regular axles, you can bend them. Always jack on the frame by putting wood blocks under your jack and then one on top to distribute the weight across the frame.

3) Never jack on the frame, you can damage it. Always jack on the axles as close to the u-bolt hangers as possible. (Though, resoundingly and without debate- jacking in the middle of the axle was generally considered a terrible idea that could damage the axle. If you want both tires off of the ground, use two jacks - one on each side of the camper.)

The camper manufacturers are strangely silent on this matter. The axle manufacturers advise against jacking on the axle.

4) Use a ramp instead. Look at the Trailer Aid Ramp that is specially made for the purpose. OR, alternatively- make a ramp out of your leveling wood/Lynx blocks so that one tire is suspended in the air.

And finally, if you go for jacking the axle or frame, the debate over what jack to use is also contested:
A) Floor jacks are nicest and safest but not very portable to lug around and are more expensive than floor jacks. This is what I bought for changing my tires at home.

B) Bottle jacks are less expensive and more portable BUT there were warnings to ensure that you had them on level ground before using them. I had concerns over the end of it being such a small diameter and small footprint AND my road is pretty sloped side to side for rain water run off. The bottle jack scared me more than the floor jack (remember- I had *never* changed a tire before).

What I did- I went with the floor jack and jacked the end of the axle nearest the U-bolt because the distance for the ground to the frame was excessive and would have required a significant amount of blocking under the jack to get the jack high enough before I even started lifting the tire. As well, I could get away with a lesser ton-rating jack with lifting just a single tire vs. one side of the camper.

And finally, ensure that the camper is chocked on the side opposite that you're working. I even left the camper hitched to my truck with the e-brake engaged to ensure that it wasn't going anyway. I did NOT want to be the Wicked Witch of the East.
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:27 AM   #5
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We carry both a bottle jack and the Trailer Aid Ramp.

Prime Time is emphatic that the trailer be jacked from the frame; at least on our model!
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_KHawthorne View Post
We carry both a bottle jack and the Trailer Aid Ramp.

Prime Time is emphatic that the trailer be jacked from the frame; at least on our model!
Interesting. I couldn't get Palomino/Sabre to specifically state one way or another. I know that the Dexter axles documentation seems to indicate to not jack on the axle (at least, I think I remember that being referenced in my thread).

Have you tried your Trailer Aid? I tried a stack of Lynx blocks to get my tire off of the ground and ran out of blocks to make the length of ramp that I needed for the height that I needed in order for the 2nd tire to hang. I have the EquaFlex suspension and it allowed quite a bit of travel before the 2nd tire left the ground in order to change it.
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ependydad View Post
...Have you tried your Trailer Aid? I tried a stack of Lynx blocks to get my tire off of the ground and ran out of blocks to make the length of ramp that I needed for the height that I needed in order for the 2nd tire to hang....
Yes! I tried it here on the farm... but I have 15" tires and fairly tight fit between the two tires. I added a 3/4 plywood backing to the Trailer Aid to give me enough height even on soft ground. I have never needed to use it in the 'real world', and hope to never have to do so!
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:40 AM   #8
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The "Bow" in the front axle is from setting the camber of the tires, every axle is slightly different. I would keep an eye on the wear on the tires and if you notice cupping, have the alignment checked.
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:38 AM   #9
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On my 30 WRS Work and Play Toy Hauler 9,000lbs empty. I used the bottle jack from my F250 and jacked her up right behind the wheels brake drum under the springs U-bolt plate for that wheel, just enough to compress that wheels springs for that particular wheel enough for the wheel would be off the ground by a 1/4 inch, not raising the trailer, but enough to remove the wheel.
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Old 09-04-2013, 07:33 PM   #10
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Thank you kindly for all the info. Changing a tire seems real basic but when I didn't see it in the manual, I was like okay there's something fishy here. Low and behold it's that gray area where the manufacturers of both trailer and axle try and cover there behind...I think it's a way of saying don't jack from the frame or axles, if you get a flat just drive it off a cliff or back up to the pot hole you just hit popping the cheap tires we installed. He He! Non the less another negative as far as I'm concerned. Hope no one takes my twisted sense of humor the wrong way as I'm happy with my trailer but the balance is a fine line.
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