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Old 03-30-2013, 09:54 AM   #11
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arent these brakes self adjusting? wouldnt just backing up and braking like you would a car/truck with drum brakes work the same? sorry to hear caper that someone was willing to finance their vacation with your vacation money.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:04 AM   #12
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In regards to the burnishing procedure. The burnish procedure is outlined by the DOT which has established the process to certify vehicle brakes when new models are being evaluated before production. There are specific stopping procedures that must be passed or the brakes will fail certification and the vehicles can't be produced. They state that burnish of brake pads/shoes is not complete until at least 200 or more proper stops are recorded. When completed the linings are properly burnished and maximum braking can be expected. Burnishing linings does not markedly or prematurely wear out the linings. It is intended to properly prepare the linings so that further braking, even hard braking won't glaze or adversely affect the ability of the linings to create heat.
This information came from reliable sources and I have read it in more than one place. Also it is not just something that so and so told me or I just heard it from another mechanic. It is what I know, taught and will do because it is based on reliable sources not just hear say.

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Old 03-30-2013, 10:18 AM   #13
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Our dealer charged us $125 to repack the bearings in both axles.................
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:21 AM   #14
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Now the solvent issue. There' really nothing inherently wrong with using solvent. If you know what you are doing you will get all of the solvent out before you begin packing the bearings. Here's why I don't do it. For 35 years I did not usually wash bearings. I wiped them off and carefully packed them with new grease pushing out all the old grease. In all my years of doing it this way we discovered many, many defective bearings early by simply looking at the grease wiped off the bearings as they were taken out. Small metal flakes present in the old grease and bingo you have a bad bearing. No questions asked and you also know which hub it came from so you can remove the correct bad race. OK you take the bearings out put them into a solvent tank, get them nice and clean and examine the bearings. Bad rollers are easy to spot but early heating problems are hard to spot. I guarantee you would have seen metal flakes in the old grease immediately after removal had you wiped the grease off and looked at it.
By wiping out the grease you avoid time spent cleaning 2 sets of bearings and you've already determined if you need to replace any bearings.

I can honestly say that not using solvent never caused a bearing to come back to the shop as defective.
I also considered that if I advocated using solvent some future technicians running short of time and perhaps less careful might allow some of the solvent to remain in the recesses of the rollers. If solvent is designed to remove old grease I guess it would also remove or at least compromise new grease also.
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Old 03-30-2013, 10:27 AM   #15
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Since self-adjusting brakes have been around since the early 60's I assumed that all drum brakes were SA. On our first camper we had a Lippert axle and they were not SA. Our current rig has Dexter and they are SA. It is also my understanding that the Dexters adjust either going back or forward.

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Old 03-30-2013, 10:31 AM   #16
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Everyone has their reasons for doing it differently, been doing it since 1954 when we used gasoline and hot Tide water. Do each brg individually with the drum/rotor. Hand packed the brgs and still do except for a 'touch up' with the EZ lubes.

Did the same with engine blocks. When they came back from machine shop and were "Hot tanked", I would wash them with hot soapy water, dry and paint the inside un-machined surfaces with RustOleum Damp Red primer before starting re-assembly.
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:37 AM   #17
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Over the many years I devoted to teaching automotive I always tried to base decisions on the facts of the time balanced with common sense. When I started teaching in 1970 many of those facts changed and if one didn't keep up with those changes you fell behind. I remember using gasoline but I wouldn't do it today not so much because of the fire danger but because of how bad it would be for me to breath the fumes and absorption into the skin. I also never gave any thought to brake dust back in the 70's. In fact we advocated using the blow gun to get rid of the dust. Today I know better. I never had one of those fancy machines but I did use hot soapy water and it worked well. We all know asbestos has been out of brake lining since the mid 80's.
It makes no sense to not have shocks on a TT. It makes no sense to not use synthetic grease for bearings if it is even only 2 X's better than standard grease and I've read nothing to the contrary. Why not have self-adjusting brakes?? They've worked for years and years. Why should I have to re-pack bearings and adjust brakes every year??? If the grease will last and the brakes adjust leave it alone. Why open up a can of worms. Why not have disc brakes from the factory since they are much better than drum??
These are things that make common sense to me. Once I find out the real facts I don't do something just because that's what the industry says I should do. Remember the lawyers????

Coot, Besides washing the blocks I also chased the threads then blew out all other particles of dirt/dust. I never painted the insides I figured the oil would coat it all.

JMTCW
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:08 PM   #18
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The cost of the service could vary with the brand of bearings.
A TruRyde Chinese bearing kit for 1 hub is $9.68.
Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal TruRyde Trailer Bearings and Races BK1-100
1 Timken bearing is $9.73
Timken L44643 Bearing : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeJay View Post
...Coot, Besides washing the blocks I also chased the threads then blew out all other particles of dirt/dust. I never painted the insides I figured the oil would coat it all.

JMTCW
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Also radiused all oil return holes in the lifter galley to make the oil flow a lot easier and faster, especially on a sb Chevy in the front to get oil to the timing gear/chain and around the lifter return holes. Spent about 20-24 hrs doing this and "chasing" threads before assembly started. Had a 7' x 7' pressurized room in the corner of my garage for all this and the assembly.
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Old 03-30-2013, 05:37 PM   #20
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Remember this thread started with a simple question-- see post 1.
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