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Old 12-29-2016, 08:03 PM   #1
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Dissecting an OEM Travel Trailer Tire

Based on what my old Tires looked like before I swapped them out for Maxxis 8008's I decided to cut one apart to see if I could find any other issues that might lead to additional delamination problems like the one that caused my blowout.

First, I was surprised at how easy the tires were to cut up. Especially the sidewalls. Next, I picked a spot based on rolling the tire and looking for a high spot. I did find a section of delamination in the spot I cut. I was not too impressed.

I'll say it again. I completely understand the people who said they immediately replace the factory tires when they buy a new trailer.

I made a video of the process if you're interested in what I did and what I found.

https://youtu.be/TiyINVp4RCo
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Old 12-30-2016, 02:24 PM   #2
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Tread separations are complex in nature. However, experts such as Dr. John Daws are very successful in determining their causes.

http://dawsengineering.com/linked_fi...eparations.pdf
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Old 04-15-2017, 11:34 PM   #3
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What brand were your OEM tires that you replaced?
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Old 04-16-2017, 06:56 AM   #4
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Great video showing the poor quality of a trailer tire. And you'll still get people defending the junk and trying to put blame on the operator as if you did something wrong. I think a brand new one you would find those voids. LT's are all I run.
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Old 04-16-2017, 04:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbrackney View Post
What brand were your OEM tires that you replaced?
The OEMs were Castle Rock D's. I replaced them with Maxxis E's balanced with dynabeads. Love the new tires.
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:05 PM   #6
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the main reason i replaced my brand new TH tires is they were woefully under rated to the weight of the loaded TH . if they had been a giher load rating i most likly would have kept them . one must keep into account that most TT have tires that barely if at all meet the load of the loaded TT . this can also be a big reason for failure
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Old 04-22-2017, 11:04 AM   #7
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The video doesn't really show anything without a comparison. Need to cut up a new tire to find out if there is any difference.
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Old 04-22-2017, 04:38 PM   #8
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The video doesn't really show anything without a comparison. Need to cut up a new tire to find out if there is any difference.
Agree. Not sure why he didn't bother to read the material listing on the tire sidewall. No mention of Fiberglass means no Fiberglass in the tire.

"I think there is metal in the tread" again read the sidewall.

Same for sidewall Polyester cord. What is the strength per cord of the polyester of this tire vs a similar size Goodyear or Michelin? The fact that it is possible to cut the sidewall with a razor blade box cutter knife means little unless he can demonstrate the same can't be done on a 1st class USA made tire.

Fiberglass wouldn't work in the sidewall as it can not tolerate the level of bending sidewalls experience.

Comments on the "small gauge" of the high strength bead wire. Not sure if he was expecting a single hoop of steel but it would be almost impossible to mount a tire as unless you have a multi-istrand hoop you can not oval the bead to "button hook" over the rim flange. Where is the comparison data? What is the tensile strength of the bead wires in this "junk" tire vs a 1st class US made Goodyear?

"Rubber didn't vulcanize together properly" is based on experience of examining how many hundreds of tires that have been in trailer service with the high Interply Shear forces?

How many miles at what load and what speed & inflation were these tires run?

Would it be better if there was no detachment at the belt edges? Yes of course but we have no idea of the tire use so have no information on probable cause for small detachment.

Maybe the main reason is the selection of tire capacity by the RV company. Look at his comparing the tires on a U-Haul trailer with RV application. I've been suggesting 85% actual load as the max percent of tire capacity Also no speed faster than 65 and always run tire max inflation to lower the Interply Shear.
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Old 04-23-2017, 03:32 PM   #9
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X2, Tireman 9. Listening to a non-expert layman discuss tire issues on video, is the same as reading all the opinions written here on the forum. Everyone has an opinion about the tire problems related to the pull behind RV industry....his holds no more weight then the others we have all read here. I put much more reliance on your opinion about tires, because you are a tire expert. Thanks for weighing in on the video!
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Old 04-23-2017, 03:57 PM   #10
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:50 AM   #11
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an interesting video and info Tireman.

But I would argue (guess?) that speed and tire pressure are the larger issue for most blowouts. If the main issue is the load range, then we would see many more blowouts.

I'm always amazed when I'm towing (driving 60 MPH in the right lane) and someone blows by me at 70 MPH+ pulling a large trailer. Just because you can drive that fast without sway doesn't make it a good idea.

That said, exceeding the speed range for the tires while also loaded to 90% + of the load range probably compounds the issue. Maybe if you had a higher load range tire then you could exceed the speed range without a blowout.

But my main point is to say that we don't all need to go out and spend a bunch of money on brand new (higher load range) tires for our brand new campers.

Treat the camper right, replace the tires before you hit 5 years, and you will most likely be OK.
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